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| + | Hi How to solder electrical connections ! |
| − | ==Some things you'll need (and good additions to your Electrical Repair tool box)==
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| − | * A temperature controlled soldering station is overall best for most harness work. A soldering "gun" or "pen". A soldering gun is best used for intermittent and general joints, a soldering pen is better for many small soldering tasks. [[Weller]] is a well-known brand for soldering appliances. Hexacon is another quality tool line for soldering equipment.
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| − | * De-solder / soldering tools & braid.
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| − | * About a pound of 60/40 solder, (I use 24 gauge for harness making, and it works well for circuit board assembly also, a good mid-sized gauge).
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| − | * Rosin flux, a pin vise, hemostats, small brass (about the size of a toothbrush) flux brush, a dental pick is also handy.
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| − | Generally correct. It is better to use 63/37 rosin core solder if you can find it.
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| − | The reason being, 63/37 only has one temperature state change from liquid to solid.
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| − | 60/40 solder, if you observe it, has two temperature state changes, the first where
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| − | it it like a paste, the second being when it solidifies. The two temp change states
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| − | can lead to faulty solder joints.
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| − | <gallery>
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| − | File:SOLDERING EQUIPMENT 001.jpg|Selection of soldering equipment
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| − | File:Rosin flux 002.jpg|Rosin flux suitable for electrical work
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| − | </gallery>
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| − | * A quality set of automatic strippers with a depth gauge.
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| − | * A quality tie wrap gun, various tie wraps.
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| − | * Bulk (5000 at a time) ring terminals in the 3 popular sizes, that are NOT insulated.
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| − | * Shrink tubing of various sizes and colors (cheaper in bulk), makes neat, tidy, and professional transitions from joined wire section to section.
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| − | * A heat gun is required or a hair dryer (takes more time, but it works) for the shrink tubing.
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| − | * Do not use matches or a lighter for heat shrink tubing, this can melt the tubing, make it brittle, and it may not shrink to the proper size. It will slide right off the joint in some cases.
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| − | * While not advised, in a pinch shrink tubing can be applied by using your soldering iron. Start the shrinking from the ends just beyond the soldered joint. Shrinking from the ends first will make the tubing shrink to the wire size leaving the soldered joint encapsulated in a cocoon, it will prevent the tubing from slipping, then do the middle. It is not necessary to touch the tubing with the soldering iron just get it close.
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| − | Typically you want to use as little solder as possible, because with large quantities of solder
| + | Here's why Melio has been great for me: |
| − | it ends up being a heat sink.
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| − | For automotive electricle work, you want a HOT iron. I'd avoid the low price less than 35 watt irons.
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| − | As the original poster recommeds, if you can offord a temperature controlled iron buy it, you will be
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| − | glad you did and you will never regret it.
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| | | | |
| − | ==The procedure==
| + | And if you have any questions, Melio has a responsive support team, available via chat and email. There is also an informative help center with lots of information. |
| − | * Strip the wire to fit the terminal sleeve, with about 1/4 inch showing.
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| − | * Without twisting the stripped end, tin it until a good silver coat appears.
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| − | * Next, get two pieces of shrink tubing -- black for the first insulator, and a selected color for the top to slide over the black, about a 1/4 inch shorter than the bottom; cut and slide them on the wire.
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| − | * Next, crimp the terminal. A good mechanical connection is critical before it is soldered. Solder should not be used to support a connection, just to bond it.
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| − | * Next, solder the wire to the ring terminal, "wicking" the solder up into the terminal sleeve until it is filled, smooth, and shiny silver.
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| − | * Finally, slide the black (longer) tubing up the wire and flush with the end of the terminal sleeve on the ring end, and shrink it. Keep the wire straight until it cools, unless a pre-bent angle is desired.
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| − | * When cool, slide the colored tubing (red for example) over the first, and flush with the ring end, and shrink it down. Net result is you have a terminal with a red marker and about a 1/4" trailer behind it. Looks professional, and lasts forever.
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| − | * To extend a wire, strip a good length from both wires, slide the shrink tubing over the wire and out of the way, then make a good mechanical connection by placing the stripped ends parallel to each other, wrap one clockwise and the other counterclockwise. Solder until you have a good flow and coverage and silver (not gray) appearance, then slide the shrink tubing over the soldered joint and heat to shrink.
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| − | * Even on crimp terminals, solder AND crimp.
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| − | ===Note:===
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| − | It is important to always heat whatever is being soldered (wire, terminal, etc.) to the point that the solder will melt when it contacts the wire or terminal. That assures good contact. Do not just apply the solder to the tip of the gun or soldering iron. This will result in a cold joint. Always melt the solder on the material being soldered.
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| − | Even if using rosin flux-core solder, adding flux to the joint is recommended.
| + | *Subject to card network limitations |
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| − | ===Important:===
| + | Best regards, |
| − | Only use rosin flux when doing electrical work. They even make a rosin core solder especially for electrical work. Other flux can lead to corrosion. Acid fluxes are best used on non-electrical work like radiators, etc.
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| − | [[Category:Electrical]]
| + | Alessandro |
| − | [[Category:Garage and shop]]
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| − | {{youcanedit}}
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