How to rebuild an engine
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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==Requirements== | ==Requirements== | ||
===Tools=== | ===Tools=== | ||
| − | You will need | + | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. |
| − | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench | + | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench and a cam bearing installing tool (or have the machine shop install the cam bearings). Also, you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner (a piece of a broken ring can be carefully used for this), a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. If cylinder head work is going to be done, a spring compressor will be needed. |
Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines. | Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines. | ||
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===Purchasing tools=== | ===Purchasing tools=== | ||
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*Cost | *Cost | ||
| − | Picking an engine is no small | + | Picking an engine is no small chore. It's a crucial step to building a hot rod, and one that affects the performance of the final product. It is entirely up to you which engine you want to run in your hot rod. Pretty much anything is possible, but not anything will be money and time efficient. Big Block Chevy's have been jammed into little Chevettes, and Chrysler Hemi's have been sandwiched into VW Bugs. With the right tools, mechanical skill, knowledge, money and time, any engine/vehicle combination can be achieved. But most people don't have unlimited amounts of money and most people don't own a fully equipped shop for massive chassis and body modifications to allow the engine to fit. So it would be recommended to pick an engine that's suitable for your application and your skill level. |
===Stock build=== | ===Stock build=== | ||
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A lot of rodders prefer their horsepower coming from big displacement high output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost considerably more than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and MOPAR. | A lot of rodders prefer their horsepower coming from big displacement high output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost considerably more than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and MOPAR. | ||
| − | The 454 BBC is often considered the ultimate ''readily available'' hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi, Chevy W-motor, Pontiac, AMC and the Boss 429 Ford have all had a resurgence since Edelbrock (and in some cases other manufacturers) have made aluminum cylinder heads and in some cases new aftermarket blocks available, as well as all the other necessary parts and pieces | + | The 454 BBC is often considered the ultimate ''readily available'' hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi, Chevy W-motor, Pontiac, AMC and the Boss 429 Ford have all had a resurgence since Edelbrock (and in some cases other manufacturers) have made aluminum cylinder heads and in some cases new aftermarket blocks available, as well as all the other necessary parts and pieces. |
==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ||
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Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more. | Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more. | ||
| − | Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a | + | Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a vibratory etcher. If you use a center punch or numbebered punch set, use a light touch so as to not distort anything. |
Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods. | Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods. | ||
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*[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Adjust_valves Adjust valves] | *[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Adjust_valves Adjust valves] | ||
*[[Engine inspection]] | *[[Engine inspection]] | ||
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