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| − | Here's how to make a fixture and rack for straightening a rear end housing.
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| − | ==Building a straightening table==
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| − | The cart pictured below is an old gas cylinder cart, bought at a garage sale. An I-beam is welded to the gas cylinder cart.
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| − | [[Image:Axle_straightening_table.jpg|frame|none|A gas cylinder cart, converted for straightening rear end housings.]]
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| − | To prevent any mishaps involving slippage and gravity, common jackstands are cut up to wrap the leg of the I-beam.
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| − | [[Image:Modified_jackstands.jpg|frame|none|Basic inexpensive jackstands are modified to wrap the I-beam for stability.]]
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| − | A straight bar is necessary. This hardened and chrome plated bar is about five feet long, and 1.5" in diameter. It's available from McMaster-Carr for about $115.00. Alternatively, an old length of scrap steel shafting can be used. V-blocks and a dial indicator can be used to ensure that a used bar is straight.
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| − | [[Image:Hardened_bar.jpg|frame|none|A hardened and chrome plated steel bar.]]
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| − | ==Making the inserts==
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| − | Then, make some inserts. These are about 2" long, as to provide some load bearing area to lessen wear caused by repeated use. For this application (10-bolt Chevrolet), the ID is 1.504", and the OD is 2.894".
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| − | [[Image:Making_inserts_in_lathe.jpg|frame|none|Making the inserts in a lathe.]]
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| − | Another insert was made with the same 1.504" ID, and dimensioned to slip-fit into the housing end. This same set of inserts and matching bar can be used as an alignment aid when narrowing rear end housings.
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| − | The inserts are then clamped in the bearing saddles, and the bar slides through them. The fit should be nice -- the bar should slide through easily, but with no noticeable play.
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| − | [[Image:Straight_bar_in_inserts.jpg|frame|none|The straight bar, in the inserts.]]
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| − | ==Measuring==
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| − | The housing end insert slides over the bar, and indicates how much the end of the housing is bent out of alignment.
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| − | [[Image:Housing_end_insert_slid_over_bar.jpg|frame|none|The housing end insert is used to indicate the alignment of the housing.]]
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| − | Hold a ruler on the tube, to see where it's bent. In this case, it's bent at the areas that were welded by the previous "builder".
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| − | [[Image:Finding_housing_bend.jpg|frame|none|A ruler is used to see where it's bent.]]
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| − | ==Heating and bending==
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| − | Next, rig a chain at the point of bend, and put a 12-ton bottle jack under the end of the axle. To prevent bending the center casing, put the rear cover on.
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| − | [[Image:Bottle_jack_and_chain.jpg|frame|none|A bottle jack and chain are used for bending.]]
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| − | Then, jack up the housing into perfect alignment with the housing end insert, and heat a band all the way around the tube, until it's red-hot. Let the tube cool while it's still supported by the jack.
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| − | [[Image:Heating_the_axle_tube.jpg|frame|none|Heat a band all the way around the tube.]]
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| − | [[Image:Red_hot_band.jpg|frame|none|A red-hot band indicating proper and even heating of the tube.]]
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| − | In this case, when the tube cooled, the housing end was only a few thousandths of an inch off, and was easily bent into alignment cold, using only the bottle jack. This housing was initially out by almost 1/4" on one side, and 3/16" on the other. Now, the housing end slips on with minimal effort.
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| − | [[Image:Insert_fits_properly.jpg|frame|none|The housing end slips on with minimal effort.]]
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| − | I did this once before on my big table. The setup was the same, (I was using a borrowed alignment bar and inserts.) And it was on a 9" ford. I have a bunch of old center sections that have no carrier in them. So I use one as a dummy.
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| − | I don't know how involved someone would want to get , building their own set of rear axle tools , ( I do intend to do this again), but maybe this thread will help inspire someone with a little ingenuity to do it at home.
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