Rust
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*3M clean-n-strip disc? | *3M clean-n-strip disc? | ||
*steel toothbrush | *steel toothbrush | ||
| − | + | *To remove rust, wire brush, or wire wheel the area. These discs are considered superior to wire wheels: [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Manufacturing/Industry/Product-Catalog/Online-Catalog/?PC_7_0_4UVL_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4UVL_output=html&PC_7_0_4UVL_gvel=H55CPWS904gl&PC_7_0_4UVL_vroot=81LC4NNTD4ge&PC_7_0_4UVL_node=RCM96XTX07be&PC_7_0_4UVL_theme=en_us_manufacturingindustry_portal&PC_7_0_4UVL_command=CustomizePageHandler 3M clean & strip disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSGKXWRKYVbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler 3M bristle disc], or [http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US/Marine/Home/Products/Catalog/?PC_7_0_4S4T_command=AbcPageHandler&PC_7_0_4S4T_theme=en_US_marineproducts_portal&PC_7_0_4S4T_output=html&PC_7_0_4S4T_vroot=GS4JK4Y166ge&PC_7_0_4S4T_gvel=RJ5GMFSMV0gl&PC_7_0_4S4T_node=GSVDY2CZYDbe&PC_7_0_4S4T_root=GST1T4S9TCgv Surface Conditioning Disc] | |
| + | *When using wire wheel on drill, when the wire bristles start to bend one way, reverse the drill and work in the other direction for a while. | ||
===Media blasting rust=== | ===Media blasting rust=== | ||
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Explain the perspectives on the use of rust encapsulators. | Explain the perspectives on the use of rust encapsulators. | ||
| + | *Brands: POR-15, Zero Rust, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. These are NOT rust "converters", they don't alter rust, etc. There is a common misconseption that the ones listed are converters, but that is in fact false. They are a coating intended to seal out air and moisture. They are rust encapsulators. | ||
| + | *Another argument against rust "treatments" is that many of them require the surface to be lightly rusted first. "Inducing" rust seems wrong to people. | ||
| + | *POR-15 shouldn't be used on parts that will see direct sunlight -- it's color will change (although it won't lose its anti-rust capabilities). | ||
| + | *POR-15 can't be applied over primer. Has to be done per instructions. | ||
| + | *POR-15 is largely considered a "duct tape fix" or a "git-er-done" solution. It may be OK for the home hobbyist, but it's not considered the "right way" or the "professional way" to handle rust. | ||
| + | *POR-15 is a three-step process: degreaser, then metal prep, then POR-15 paint. (verify this). | ||
| + | *If POR-15 and similar products have a "lifetime warranty", explain how guarantees like that don't involve labor costs, losses, or other related costs. | ||
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*'''If you're dealing with a complete vehicle body with rust, have it commercially dipped.''' | *'''If you're dealing with a complete vehicle body with rust, have it commercially dipped.''' | ||
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| + | ===What to apply to sandblasted steel prior to priming, to kill unseen rust=== | ||
| + | Phosphoric acid, ZeroRust,. | ||
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| + | Does epoxy primer adhere well to bare steel? Yes. Can body filler and high-build primers be used on top of epoxy primer? Yes. | ||
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| + | #Take scuff pad, wet it with phosphoric acid or product containing mainly phosphoric acid. | ||
| + | #Scrub metal to a clean, bright finish. Wipe dry with paper towels, and let flash dry completely. | ||
| + | #Scuff dry panel with dry scuff pad, wipe with wax and grease remover until clean and dry; when wiped with a clean towel, it comes back up clean. | ||
| + | |||
| + | ===How to treat rusty drip-rails?=== | ||
| + | #sand blast | ||
| + | #wash with wax and grease remover | ||
| + | #spray with 2 coats of epoxy | ||
| + | #spray with seam sealer | ||
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| + | ===Step-by-step epoxy primer application to panels=== | ||
| + | #strip, and sand with 80-grit sandpaper | ||
| + | #clean with wax and grease remover until a clean towel can be rubbed on it without discoloring | ||
| + | #spray 2 coats of epoxy, according to manufacturer's directions | ||
| + | #body filler can be applied next, although sometimes the epoxy will need to be scuffed or sanded (read instructions) | ||
| + | #when the filler work is done, scuff the whole panel with a red scotch-brite pad. | ||
| + | #then, apply two more coats of epoxy, followed by high-build primer. | ||
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| + | |||
| + | ===Treating light body rust (from storing panels) prior to epoxy=== | ||
| + | Sand with 80 grit, wash with wax and grease remover. Use waterborne wax and grease remover, instead of solvent-borne (research exactly what that means), let set 15-30 minutes. Dry with a blower and a tack rag. Spray epoxy. | ||
===Soda blasting issues=== | ===Soda blasting issues=== | ||
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===Rusted window channels=== | ===Rusted window channels=== | ||
Bad news. Difficult to fabricate. | Bad news. Difficult to fabricate. | ||
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| + | ===Muriatic acid (hydrochloric acid)=== | ||
| + | For cleaning aluminum, not steel. Don't use it on body metal! Causes hydrogen embrittlement. | ||
===The fiberglass resin patch trick=== | ===The fiberglass resin patch trick=== | ||
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===Panel adhesives=== | ===Panel adhesives=== | ||
Need info on these. | Need info on these. | ||
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| + | ===Cavity waxes and seam sealers=== | ||
| + | 3M rustfighter, Transtar's Amber Coating, Amsoil's HD. Transtar sells 360 degree spray head wand -- find this. | ||
| + | How to apply seam sealer/cavity wax? Plus, more general info on cavity wax. | ||
===Rivets?=== | ===Rivets?=== | ||
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Blow out all the dirt, etc. Then, attach a strong towel to some strong cord. Soak the towel with rust treatment chemical, and pull it through the frame. | Blow out all the dirt, etc. Then, attach a strong towel to some strong cord. Soak the towel with rust treatment chemical, and pull it through the frame. | ||
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===Treating rusted body panels=== | ===Treating rusted body panels=== | ||
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===Axle tube rust=== | ===Axle tube rust=== | ||
When rebuilding a rear end, the rust can be cleaned out with naval jelly/shoving rags down it with a broomstick. | When rebuilding a rear end, the rust can be cleaned out with naval jelly/shoving rags down it with a broomstick. | ||
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===Vinyl tops=== | ===Vinyl tops=== | ||
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Silicone dielectric grease, electrical bonding paste; spray well with clear lacquer after bonding the connection. | Silicone dielectric grease, electrical bonding paste; spray well with clear lacquer after bonding the connection. | ||
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===Galvanization=== | ===Galvanization=== | ||
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===Mag wheel cleaner as rust remover?=== | ===Mag wheel cleaner as rust remover?=== | ||
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===Bulk notes=== | ===Bulk notes=== | ||
*Phosphoric acid (naval jelly, etc.) reacts with rust (iron oxide), to form iron phosphate (the black stuff that naval jelly leaves behind). Neutralize with: baking soda. | *Phosphoric acid (naval jelly, etc.) reacts with rust (iron oxide), to form iron phosphate (the black stuff that naval jelly leaves behind). Neutralize with: baking soda. | ||
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*Don't ever use battery acid (sulfuric acid) to remove rust. Very dangerous to work with, and harms metal. | *Don't ever use battery acid (sulfuric acid) to remove rust. Very dangerous to work with, and harms metal. | ||
*To keep naval jelly wet, soak some fabric in water, and lay it on the naval jelly. Can work on an incline. | *To keep naval jelly wet, soak some fabric in water, and lay it on the naval jelly. Can work on an incline. | ||
*Don't sit in one spot too long with a wire wheel -- it will warp the metal from the heat. | *Don't sit in one spot too long with a wire wheel -- it will warp the metal from the heat. | ||
*The iron phosphate coating that's left behind by rust converter is a fine base for primer. | *The iron phosphate coating that's left behind by rust converter is a fine base for primer. | ||
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*One recommendation is: after sandblasting, remove some more of the surface metal by sanding with sandpaper. This is done to remove the salt, sand, moisture, etc. from the surface. | *One recommendation is: after sandblasting, remove some more of the surface metal by sanding with sandpaper. This is done to remove the salt, sand, moisture, etc. from the surface. | ||
*Molasses is thought to work, but takes a while. 1 part molasses to 10 parts water. | *Molasses is thought to work, but takes a while. 1 part molasses to 10 parts water. | ||
*To remove rust: Comet/Ajax with Scotch-Brites, and then muriatic acid with scotch-brites, and then rinse and wash with Comet/Ajax again to neutralize the acid. | *To remove rust: Comet/Ajax with Scotch-Brites, and then muriatic acid with scotch-brites, and then rinse and wash with Comet/Ajax again to neutralize the acid. | ||
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*What's "all-metal"? Same as all-metal prep? | *What's "all-metal"? Same as all-metal prep? | ||
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