Make a fiberglass fan shroud
(→Finishing the part) |
(→Finishing the part) |
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| − | As mentioned before, this shroud is going to need to enclose the radiator where the fan swings 1" above the top. This will require a secondary lamination to form a return. As the return can be flat, and on the same plane as the mounting surface, a table top will be used for the mold. I simply tape the top off with some masking tape, then wax the tape with some mold release wax. I like Partall#2, AKA "green wax". | + | As mentioned before, this shroud is going to need to enclose the radiator where the fan swings 1" above the top. This will require a secondary lamination to form a return. As the return can be flat, and on the same plane as the mounting surface, a table top will be used for the mold. I simply tape the top off with some masking tape, then wax the tape with some mold release wax. I like [http://www.rexco-usa.com/part3.htm Partall #2], AKA "green wax". |
Just clamp the shroud to the table, and lay up 3 layers of fiberglass mat. | Just clamp the shroud to the table, and lay up 3 layers of fiberglass mat. | ||
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| − | I use polyester surfacing primer on all of my plugs and one-offs. Evercoat-Fiberglass Co. makes a material called | + | I use polyester surfacing primer on all of my plugs and one-offs. Evercoat-Fiberglass Co. makes a material called [http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=171 Featherfill], Poly Lux, Inc. makes a polyester surfacing primer, and [http://www.duratec1.com/ProductList.html Hawkeye Industries] (under their Duratec line)has a line of primers that are well suited to filling all of the pores and sandscratch marks left by shaping. |
| − | I like the Duratec surfacing primer the best, because you can build up to .040" in a single application. | + | I like the [http://www.duratec1.com/dp04.html Duratec surfacing primer] the best, because you can build up to .040" in a single application. |
[[Image:67duratec.JPG|center|600px]] | [[Image:67duratec.JPG|center|600px]] | ||
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