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| − | ==Rust encapsulation==
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| − | Hotrodders typically divide into 3 camps over the use of these products:
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| − | #won't use them at all
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| − | #will use them, but not on body panels
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| − | #will use them on anything
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| − | Explain the perspectives on the use of rust encapsulators.
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| − | *Brands: POR-15, Zero Rust, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. These are NOT rust "converters", they don't alter rust, etc. There is a common misconseption that the ones listed are converters, but that is in fact false. They are a coating intended to seal out air and moisture. They are rust encapsulators.
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| − | *Another argument against rust "treatments" is that many of them require the surface to be lightly rusted first. "Inducing" rust seems wrong to people.
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| − | *POR-15 shouldn't be used on parts that will see direct sunlight -- it's color will change (although it won't lose its anti-rust capabilities).
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| − | *POR-15 can't be applied over primer. Has to be done per instructions.
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| − | *POR-15 is largely considered a "duct tape fix" or a "git-er-done" solution. It may be OK for the home hobbyist, but it's not considered the "right way" or the "professional way" to handle rust.
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| − | *POR-15 is a three-step process: degreaser, then metal prep, then POR-15 paint. (verify this).
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| − | *If POR-15 and similar products have a "lifetime warranty", explain how guarantees like that don't involve labor costs, losses, or other related costs.
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| − | Hard to remove from skin. To remove from skin: Soak in vegetable oil for 30 minutes, or use a solvent (is there a specific POR-15 solvent?).
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| − | POR-15, Zero-Rust, Eastwood Rust Encapsulator
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| − | These might be the top 3?
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| − | Len Stuart of Autobodystore.com recommends Picklex-20 followed by Zero Rust: http://www.autobodystore.com/new_page_1.htm
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| − | from Eastwood: [http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=852&itemType=CATEGORY&iMainCat=688 Rust encapsulator v. POR-15]
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| − | Topcoat these products? Some may have a UV-resistant clearcoat to go with them -- research it.
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| − | Some professionals have expressed the concern that it's best to use rust encapsulator products "alone", and not within a professional coating product line. Good thread on this is here: http://hotrodders.com/forum/zero-rust-primer-98104.html .
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| − | POR-15 is expensive. Are there other products that are just as good, but not so pricey? One problem with using "rust coating products" is that, for hobbyists, it's often best to stick with a single line of paint/finish products, from bare metal to clearcoat. Using most rust products means that you're outside of the product line for the rest of the finish. So, it may be physically incompatible (resulting in a poor paint job), or it may void the product warranty.
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| − | Need to go through these three companies rust product lines, and analyze all the available products.
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| − | *"silver" POR-15? Has a filler in it for minor imperfections?
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| − | When selecting a rust encapsulator, need to consider:
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| − | Product compatibility?
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| − | What can it be thinned with? How much?
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| − | How long to dry/cure?
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| − | UV protection?
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| − | Colors?
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| − | *Some people mentioned that professional body shops don't use POR-15 or similar rust "encapsulators" because:
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| − | **They would have to re-do too much of their work.
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| − | **Rust prevention products are primarily advertised in hobbyist mags, not in periodicals read by professionals in the paint and body industry.
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| − | **The lack of rust preventive products in non-hobbyist industries does appear suspect. For example, why don't ships at sea use POR-15?
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| − | **The major paint manufacturers like Sherwin Williams, PPG, and DuPont don't produce a POR-15 like product. This is thought to be because they couldn't possibly warranty such a product.
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| − | **The fact that POR-15 is not used by manufacturers is also important.
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| | ===What to apply to sandblasted steel prior to priming, to kill unseen rust=== | | ===What to apply to sandblasted steel prior to priming, to kill unseen rust=== |
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