Rust
(→Methods) |
(→Rust removers and "converters") |
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===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ===Rust removers and "converters"=== | ||
After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda (confirm or expand on this). | After using an acid to remove rust, flush the surface with water and baking soda (confirm or expand on this). | ||
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| + | When converting/neutralizing rust: | ||
| + | # Get everything off first that you can by sanding and wire brushing (wire brushing will get into the pits better) | ||
| + | # A rust converter/neutralizer containing phospheric acid or another type of acid shold be used | ||
| + | # Be careful of getting this stuff on your concrete floor as it will bubble and decompose it | ||
| + | # Follow the instructions on the bottle when you are done there should be a fine coating on the metal which will help prevent further rust from developing | ||
| + | # This stuff is hard on paintbrushes (eats away the brisles) and you must be very careful of your eyes. Also it will ruin paint so again use caution. | ||
Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | Lots of "rust neutralizers/metal etchers/floor etchers/metal conditioners" contain primarily phosphoric acid, which reacts with rust (iron oxide) to create iron phosphate, a hard black substance over which primer can be applied. | ||
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