Rust
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=Miscellaneous= | =Miscellaneous= | ||
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==Flooded vehicles== | ==Flooded vehicles== | ||
Flooded vehicles can be very difficult to handle, as there can be rust in any and all places. They are best avoided, unless it's the car that you really want. | Flooded vehicles can be very difficult to handle, as there can be rust in any and all places. They are best avoided, unless it's the car that you really want. | ||
| + | ==The fiberglass resin patch trick== | ||
| + | One technique that has been recommended is to grind/clean the rust, tape the underside of the panel to be patched, and then fill the holes with fiberglass resin, then paint and undercoat. This trick is not really a good idea -- when the body flexes, there will be cracks in the fiberglass pieces. | ||
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| + | ===Rivets?=== | ||
| + | Very low-end solution, like fiberglass patching metal. | ||
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===Butt-weld or lap-weld=== | ===Butt-weld or lap-weld=== | ||
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Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal. | Use 18-20 gauge sheet metal. | ||
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===Body filler to bare metal?=== | ===Body filler to bare metal?=== | ||
It's a common procedure to apply body filler to bare metal, but it's not the "best" way to do it. User "badbob" on the HRBB says: "fillers get applied over bare metal every day and it's an acceptable recomended procedure, but applying a quality epoxy primer first adds corrosion resistance, durability, adhesion, and filler flexability. It just takes more time. Time that most people aren't willing to spend." | It's a common procedure to apply body filler to bare metal, but it's not the "best" way to do it. User "badbob" on the HRBB says: "fillers get applied over bare metal every day and it's an acceptable recomended procedure, but applying a quality epoxy primer first adds corrosion resistance, durability, adhesion, and filler flexability. It just takes more time. Time that most people aren't willing to spend." | ||
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=Miscellaneous= | =Miscellaneous= | ||
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