Rust
(→Treating light body rust (from storing panels) prior to epoxy) |
(→Removing rust in seams) |
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To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | ||
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| + | For off-frame restorations, use Rustbeeter to totally remove rust from seams and metal-on-metal areas such as those in door panels. Soak the part in this natural product for a few days to a week or so, depending on the amount of rust, and then wash it off with water and dry completely. Because Rustbeeter is water-based, no neutralizing is necessary. Pressure-wash the seams and then dry them thoroughly with an air hose. The surface is clean and ready for pushing primer into the seam. Collectors who have acid-dipped their vehicles often find rust forming in the seams a couple years down the line. That is because the acid does not always get neutralized, allowing rust to continue. Of course, sandblasting can't reach these areas whatsoever. [http://www.rustbeeter.com rustbeeter] | ||
====Accessing rust between interior panels==== | ====Accessing rust between interior panels==== | ||
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