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| | ====Treating light body rust (from storing panels) prior to epoxy==== | | ====Treating light body rust (from storing panels) prior to epoxy==== |
| | Sand with 80 grit, wash with wax and grease remover. Use waterborne wax and grease remover, instead of solvent-borne (research exactly what that means), let set 15-30 minutes. Dry with a blower and a tack rag. Spray epoxy. | | Sand with 80 grit, wash with wax and grease remover. Use waterborne wax and grease remover, instead of solvent-borne (research exactly what that means), let set 15-30 minutes. Dry with a blower and a tack rag. Spray epoxy. |
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| − | A natural alternative is to soak the part in Rustbeeter for a few days and then wash it off with water and dry completely. Because Rustbeeter is water-based, there is no neutralizing necessary. The surface is clean and ready for priming or any other surface treatment. [http://www.rustbeeter.com rustbeeter]
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| | ====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== | | ====Getting the entire vehicle body dipped==== |
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| | Product recommendation: Featherfill? | | Product recommendation: Featherfill? |
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| − | Rustbeeter will follow the rust down into the pits and remove it completely. It is a soaking process that is all natural, safe to use and handle. A byproduct of the sugarbeet refining process, it is able to be used over and over. Simply mix it with tapwater and submerge your body panel or any other part that is steel, cast iron or chrome. It will not damage the base metal, so you can let it soak enough to clean out the pits, nooks and crannies completely. When the rust is gone, simply wash the part with tapwater and dry it completely. It is then ready for painting, oiling, waxing or any other surface protectant. [http://www.rustbeeter.com rustbeeter]
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| | Review this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitting_corrosion | | Review this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitting_corrosion |
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| | To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. | | To do it right, you will generally need to pull the seam apart, remove the rust, and then hit it with a rust conversion product. However, sometimes you can open up the layers slightly with a hammer and putty knife used between the spotwelds. Bend the flange open, media blast into the seam, clean, prime with epoxy primer, brush in urethane seam sealer, and close the seam back up. If the seam is not accessible, flood it with a penetrating cavity wax, like 3M's Rustfighter. |
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| − | For off-frame restorations, use Rustbeeter to totally remove rust from seams and metal-on-metal areas such as those in door panels. Soak the part in this natural product for a few days to a week or so, depending on the amount of rust, and then wash it off with water and dry completely. Because Rustbeeter is water-based, no neutralizing is necessary. Pressure-wash the seams and then dry them thoroughly with an air hose. The surface is clean and ready for pushing primer into the seam. Collectors who have acid-dipped their vehicles often find rust forming in the seams a couple years down the line. That is because the acid does not always get neutralized, allowing rust to continue. Of course, sandblasting can't reach these areas whatsoever. [http://www.rustbeeter.com rustbeeter]
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| | ====Accessing rust between interior panels==== | | ====Accessing rust between interior panels==== |
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| | ===How to remove rust from chrome=== | | ===How to remove rust from chrome=== |
| | Use mag wheel polish, fine steel wool, crumpled-up pieces of aluminum foil. | | Use mag wheel polish, fine steel wool, crumpled-up pieces of aluminum foil. |
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| − | Truly removing rust from chrome is a difficult task, unless you are using Rustbeeter. As mentioned above, restorers polish or use a fine abrasive to get rid of the rust, and it looks good ... for a while. Then the rust returns. That is because those other processes only treat the surface and not the rust coming up from the cracks and pits below the chrome. Rustbeeter is a soaking process that removes rust from pits but does not damage the base metal (chrome) whatsoever. A natural food product, it is mixed with water to soak the hubcap, fender, mirror or other chrome part for a few days to a week or so (no need to keep an eye on it since you can''t hurt the part by leaving it in the Rustbeeter.). When the rust is gone, wash the chrome piece off with water and dry it completely. You will want to press a wax into the surface and pits or use some kind of clear product to protect the surface so that rust does not return to the cleaned areas. [http://www.rustbeeter.com rustbeeter]
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| | ===Preventing engine rust=== | | ===Preventing engine rust=== |
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| | ===Cleaning hand tools=== | | ===Cleaning hand tools=== |
| | Tumble in a cement mixer with oil and sand. Or, soak in a bucket with parts cleaner or paint thinner. | | Tumble in a cement mixer with oil and sand. Or, soak in a bucket with parts cleaner or paint thinner. |
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| − | Condition is everything, whether cleaning or restoring an old Fordson wrench or vintage woodworking tool. One should never do anything to an antique tool that is not reversible. It should be no surprise, then, that the Smithsonian Institution does not allow sandblasting or the wire-brushing of its antiquities, as those processes permanently alter the patina of the metal artifact. Treating a tool in Rustbeeter removes only the rust, retaining the original patina and increasing the artifact's historical and monetary value.
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| − | A byproduct of the sugar beet-refining process, Rustbeeter seeks out iron oxide (rust) from steel and cast iron and removes it from all surfaces. Unlike sandblasting, bead blasting, wire brushing or treating with acids or caustics, Rustbeeter will not degrade the base metal or, in turn, the value of the tool. Rustbeeter is the only product that is reversible without marking or degrading the surface or patina. You should know...
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| − | * Sandblasting and wire brushing destroy the manufacturing marks, details and surface finishes on old tools. Raised marks and letters become rounded and less crisp. All abrasive processes (sandblasting, glass bead, and soda blasting) deteriorate or alter the surface of the metal, thus compromising the historical and monetary value.
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| − | * Rustbeeter seeps into nooks and crannies that other processes are unable to reach. Additionally, even pitted areas are rust free after treatment.
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| − | * Rustbeeter will not remove paint that is properly adhered to the metal. However, most paint has rust beneath it and Rustbeeter™ will remove the rust and float the paint. Rust forms above the paint, and removing the rust could reveal the original paint.
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| − | * Rustbeeter removes rust from cast-iron surfaces, recesses and pitted areas. Due to the high carbon content of cast iron, a slight buildup of carbon will remain on the surface, giving a slightly darker appearance to the tool. To remove this carbon "dirt," simply brush the surface lightly with a small, toothbrush-sized fine wire brush.
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| − | * You should remove wooden parts from metal artifacts. Because wood is porous, it will absorb Rustbeeter. The wood will darken and take on a slight molasses-like odor.
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| − | * Rustbeeter does not deteriorate or alter galvanized, zinc or black oxide surfaces. Other materials such as brass, copper, soldering, plastic and Fiberglass also are not affected by Rustbeeter although the product does destroy aluminum.
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| − | * Rustbeeter makes a tool so chemically clean that the surface will re-rust if not protected with a surface treatment such as wax, oil or paint.
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| − | * Since Rustbeeter is a food product, it is safe to use, safe to handle and poses no health issues. It is much less expensive than many other commercial products and processes. Because Rustbeeter is a soaking process, it is not time consuming like sandblasting or wire brushing.
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| − | As for cleaning paint off a tool or refurbishing a wooden handle, Rustbeeter has a Vintage Tool Kit that includes Rustbeeter, as well as a soybean-based paint remover and a citrus-based wood cleaner. All are natural products. [http://www.rustbeeter.com rustbeeter]
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| | ===Rust prevention on tools=== | | ===Rust prevention on tools=== |
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