Basic modifications for newbies
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I've gotten a little off track with my explanation. We need to go back to what a newbie should do to his vehicle FIRST. | I've gotten a little off track with my explanation. We need to go back to what a newbie should do to his vehicle FIRST. | ||
| + | The very first modification done to an otherwise stock auto/truck should be a different ring and pinion gear. A good compromise between mileage and acceleration in a street car is somewhere around 3.70:1 ratio and should be complemented with new shocks and new bushings in the spring/suspension link mountings. If the owner intends to change this vehicle into a semi-serious street/drag car, then additional aftermarket traction devices such as anti-wheel hop products and tires with different rubber compound should be considered. Even more serious competitors should consider mini-tubs or full tubs in the car to accomodate wide racing slicks. A large number of racers who show up at my track mount slicks on separate wheels (wide steel wheels will work just fine) to be bolted to the car after they drive it in off the street. | ||
| − | + | Of course, when it comes to traction, some type of slip-limiting device like the Chevrolet Posi-Traction or aftermarket Detroit Locker or Auburn units or similar units will do an excellent job of hooking up both tires. However, these are not mandatory to get both tires to pull and not spin the passenger side tire. | |
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| + | With a front-motor, rear-drive vehicle, the chassis twists diagonally upon application of power. The left front gets lighter and the right rear gets lighter. The right front and the left rear get heavier. This is why you will see the right rear tire spin while the left rear hooks up. | ||
To be continued..... | To be continued..... | ||
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