Body and exterior tips

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(→Stripping paint)
(→Handling and storing paints, finishes, and related products)
 
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Hi, http://host.hablessgroup.net/mortgage87/index.html tips on refinancing a home,  57508,
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== Paint and spray guns==
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===Handling and storing paints, finishes, and related products===
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*When opening a can of paint, punch a hole in the trough where the lid sits. That way excess paint will drain out of the trough and into the can, rather than splattering when placing the lid back on the can.
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*Buy a set of inexpensive spatulas to use as scrapers for paint cans.
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*To preserve hardener displace the air in the can with inert gas, such as that from a welding tank. Or, use a commercial inert gas finish preservative such as [http://www.bloxygen.com/ Bloxygen].
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*Paint and related finishing products can be mixed in glass measuring cups, medicine cups, soup cans, or shot glasses. However, [http://www.ezmix.com EZ Mix] cups are generally preferred for ease of use. Containers with measurements on the side are generally most useful. Be aware that if you use a container with tapered sides you cannot use a paint mixing stick, as this changes the mixing ratio as the cup gets larger towards the top. Paint sticks are only to be used in containers with straight sides. Paper cups are cautioned against because some may have a wax coating. Similarly, plastic cups or containers (medicine cups, yogurt containers, cleaned bottle caps, etc.) are also cautioned against. There are many different kinds of plastic, some of which are inappropriate for storing certain types of finishing products.
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*Use inexpensive plastic condiment bottles to dispense buffing compounds, polish, and glazes.
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*For easier pouring, affix a 2-inch piece of masking tape to the edge of a large gallon of paint. Pour the paint over the piece of tape.
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*Use a ladle for handling paint.
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*When purchasing new paint or other finishing products, write the date on them with black magic marker.
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*For stirring paint, use inexpensive "jumbo sticks", tongue depressors, Popsicle sticks, wood sticks, or butter knives.
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*Paint stirring sticks with marks for different mix ratios can be useful for mixing paint.
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*When mixing double portions of paint or primer mix one portion at a time. For example, 8:2:1 is easier to keep track of than 16:4:2. After mixing each individual portion, add the two portions together and mix well again. This also cuts down on wasted material when you make a mistake (too much hardener, wrong reducer, etc.).
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*When opening a gallon of paint that isn't all going to be used immediately, mix it very well and pour it off into quart cans. While pouring, intermix the paint; pour a little bit into each can at a time.
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*Leftover paint with hardener can be placed in the refrigerator. The cold temperature will slow down the hardener.
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*It's very important to keep the nozzles of spray cans clean. Be sure to shake spray cans for the amount of time listed on the can, no less. After shaking, turn the can upside down and spray once to clear the nozzle. When done spraying, turn the can upside down, and clear the nozzle and pickup tube by spraying out all of the paint that is inside them.  Then wipe the nozzle clean with a suitable solvent.  This will return the nozzle to nearly new condition and will greatly extend its life.  For more details, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/what-proper-way-spray-paint-can-41513.html#post285843 Rattle can basics].
  
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===Spray guns and spraying technique===
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*For consistent film build, don't start and stop at the same point every coat. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html#post542621 Spray technique].
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*Don't end a pass right at the end of a panel, where the masking begins. To prevent buildup, and to ensure an even coat, run the color over into the paper a good distance (up to a foot has been recommended).
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*Use proper gun travel techniques. For more information, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-30-a-74674.html#post542807 Basics of gun travel].
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*To paint something in a tight area without access, use a paper towel tube. Spray down the tube as it's held over the spot that needs to be painted.
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*Using a file or a fine hack saw, scribe a line in the 12 o'clock position on your adjustment knobs when they are turned in all the way. This will make it easier to keep track of gun adjustments.
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*Practice spray technique with water in the gun.
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*For very small tasks, an airbrush may be helpful.
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*For HVLP guns with low air requirements:
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#Connect air fittings to a tee, and install a gauge.
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#Connect the assembly to the gun, and then regulate the pressure at the compressor until it's at the desired level.
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#Now, the assembly can be removed, and they'll be the proper pressure without all the extra hardware.
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====Cleaning spray guns====
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*Never use anything metal for cleaning paint guns.
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*Rubber-tipped dental tools for cleaning guns can be used for cleaning the holes in air caps.
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*To clean metal parts of paint guns soak them in carburetor cleaner, and then rinse well. Don't soak plastic or painted parts.
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*For many spray guns from [[Harbor Freight]] (a popular spray gun supplier), the finish will be removed when the gun is soaked in thinner or carburetor cleaner for cleaning purposes.
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*Try using an ultrasonic cleaner (about $30, used for cleaning jewelry) for cleaning an HVLP gun. Lacquer thinner or glass cleaner have been recommended as potential solvents for use in an ultrasonic cleaner.
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==Stripping paint==
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See [[Stripping paint]].
  
 
==Sanding==
 
==Sanding==
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*For a smaller sanding block, place a sanding block in a vice and cut it with a hacksaw.
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See: [[Sanding]].
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*To make a sanding block for a specific use such as when a smaller size is needed to access a confined area cut a piece of half inch thick plywood to the correct size.  Glue or screw a makeshift handle made from a small block of wood to the top of it.  Cut your sandpaper large enough to wrap it around the block and then staple it to the block.  You can do this with various sizes of dowel for areas that need a curved surface.
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*To true a sanding block, put a piece of 180 grit sandpaper on a flat surface (plate steel, aluminum, etc.). Rub the surface of the block over the sandpaper. The flatness of the plate or flat surface will true up the surface of the block.
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*To make a sanding block for an angle, place body filler in a bag and press it into the angle to make a mold. Or, for an actual sanding "block", place body filler on plastic wrap, press it into the angle, and press a block of wood into the back. When it hardens, it's bonded to the wood.
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*For sanding concave areas, use a piece of rubber hose as a sanding block, or some masking papers come on a plastic tube that works great when cut to the desired length.
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*To make a simple tool for cutting sandpaper, mount a hacksaw blade to a piece of plywood. Draw lines on the plywood for different cut sizes, and label them accordingly. To cut sandpaper, slide it under the blade until it lines up with the proper line. For photos of this tool, see this [http://hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-42-a-80655.html Hotrodders Bulletin Board discussion].
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*Use pieces of sheet metal to size sandpaper:
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#Using a stomp shear, or something else that can cut sheet metal straightly, shear a piece of sheet metal in the size of a piece of sandpaper.
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#To cut sandpaper, simply lay the sheet metal on top of the sandpaper, and tear off the part of the paper not under the sheet metal.
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#Drill a hole in the sheet metal piece for hanging on the wall, and paint it with a little bright paint so it's easier to keep track of.
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*Use a paper cutter for cutting sandpaper. With a magic marker, outline different size sanding blocks on the surface of the paper cutter.
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*Make use of modern sanding tools that more easily match contours, such as [http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=16399&itemType=PRODUCT flexible sanders], the [http://www.allchem.it/news.html Body Shaper 461], or the [http://guide-rite.com/ Guide-Rite Contour Sander]. Contour gauges (also known as profile gauges) for body work are available at many automotive supply stores.
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*If you do a lot of block sanding, consider purchasing a more expensive "professional" sanding block, such as the [http://www.timeshavertools.com/features.html#preppinwedge Preppin' Weapon].
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*Always fold sandpaper grit-side to grit-side first for more accurate folds.
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*To cut down on waste, buy sandpaper in rolls, rather than sheets.
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*To sand reverse curves, put the sandpaper on the top side of the sanding block.
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*To sand under rubber, lift it up by forcing a cord or coated wire under it.
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*Use a different sanding block for each grit of sandpaper. This will save time, and it will ensure that sandpaper is worn out before removing it from the block.
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*Understand the different sandpaper grit ratings and and their micron equivalents. For more information, see this [http://www.autobodystore.com/paper_grading.htm Abrasive grade comparison chart], or this [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sandpaper Sandpaper article with grit size table].
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*When color sanding a panel:
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#Sand in alternating directions. For example, sand vertically with 1000 grit, then horizontally with 1500 or 2000 grit.
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#After using 2000 grit, use a 4000 grit pad on a DA sander, which will highlight any of the previous sanding marks.
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#After sanding, let a panel or vehicle sit in the sun for a few hours. Then, take it inside, wait for it to cool, and buff it.
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*When calculating sandpaper costs, bear in mind that used sandpaper takes longer to use. To save on labor costs, it may be beneficial to discard sandpaper before it is completely used.
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==Taping and masking==
 
==Taping and masking==
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*When painting up to a rubber gasket (like a windshield), place a length of rubber vacuum line, plastic tubing, clothesline, or weed trimming string under the gasket. When the paint is dry, pull the line out. It will look like the gasket was removed for painting. Even if it shrinks over time, it won't expose old color. If the gasket won't lay back down, use a heat gun (after the paint has fully cured). 3M makes a product called "trim masking tape" that can also be used for this purpose.
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See: [[Taping and masking]].
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*Before applying clearcoat, re-mask windows and other body parts with fresh paper (taping over the existing paper is fine). This will prevent dust from previous coats from contaminating the clearcoat.
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*Use aluminum foil for masking odd shapes.
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*Tape down loose masking paper. It can move around while painting, and dirt can hide in the creases.
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*When taping off a large opening (such as a door) first run several lines of tape across it (sticky side out). Now, when it's masked, the paper will stick to the tape and it won't be so floppy.
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*Use garbage bags to mask wheels. They can be cut or stretched to cover a wheel. When done painting, the masking material can be disposed of in the garbage bags.
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*When taping off a two-tone, use specific taping and and painting guidelines. For more information, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-15-a-71220.html Taping off a two tone paint job].
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*Removing a part is often a better option than masking it.
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*When taping a curve, tape will stretch better one way than the other.
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*When removing tape from freshly painted sheetmetal, do it as soon as possible.
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*Remove tape in a slightly outward and downwards motion. This will allow the tape to roll back on itself, preventing jagged edges and lifting.
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*To get tape to stick to rubber, wipe the rubber clean with thinner.
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*To prevent tape marks when taping on fresh paint, try applying the tape to your pants first. It won't stick as much with a thin layer of lint. this allows air under the tape so you don't trap solevent evaporation which causes paint to show tape shadowing or marring.
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==Body filler==
 
==Body filler==
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*For body lines and peaks on hoods or doors, use a contour gauge to make a custom plastic filler spreader:
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See: [[Bondo]].
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#Place the contour gauge on an undamaged area to get the contour.
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#Trace the contour onto a plastic body filler spreader.
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#Trim out the shape on the spreader.
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*Cut filler spreaders to the desired size.
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*To clean body filler spreaders, use 1/4 of a 3M scuff pad with lacquer thinner on it. A metal quart can with a lid makes a safe way to store the scuff pad along with some lacquer thinner. 
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*For reproducing small parts such as gaskets, use plastic body filler to make a mold:
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#If the part doesn't already exist, a replica has to be made in its shape (for example, carve it out of soft plastic).
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#Apply some wax to the part (this will act as a mold release), and lay it down on a piece of wax paper.
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#Mix up some body filler, and place it in a small cup or bowl (the cap on a plastic jug may work).
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#While the filler is still wet, place it over the part.
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#When the filler hardens, it can be removed and used as a mold.
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*When applying body filler upside down, apply the filler to a sheet of thin plastic (such as the side of a milk jug) and press it into place. When the filler hardens, peel the plastic away.
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*use an aluminum ruler to find high and low spots such as doors..hood to fender..or trunk lid to fender ect..
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&if using filler with hatonite you can sand filler while still tacky this will shread the filler smooth easily with hardly any pressure,when finished follow up with a poyester glase or add filler thinner to your finale coat of filler.
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==Cleanliness==
 
==Cleanliness==
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*Use proper techniques for removing old or rusted bolts. See [[Removing rusted and broken fasteners]].
 
*Use proper techniques for removing old or rusted bolts. See [[Removing rusted and broken fasteners]].
 
*To protect painted bolts, place a sandwich bag over the bolt head before pushing on the socket.
 
*To protect painted bolts, place a sandwich bag over the bolt head before pushing on the socket.
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*Make sure you save and mark all alignment shims from all the body panels when you take them apart. It will give you a great starting place when you go to reassemble.
 
*When aligning a body part that will require a lot of loosening and tightening, use mock-up bolts with plastic washers. When the panel fit is perfect, go back and change out the bolts one by one.
 
*When aligning a body part that will require a lot of loosening and tightening, use mock-up bolts with plastic washers. When the panel fit is perfect, go back and change out the bolts one by one.
 
*When disassembling parts or vehicles, be organized. Plastic bags, tape, and a magic marker are essential.
 
*When disassembling parts or vehicles, be organized. Plastic bags, tape, and a magic marker are essential.
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*Make paper templates for easy cutting and drilling. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html Templates for accurate cutting and drilling].
 
*Make paper templates for easy cutting and drilling. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html Templates for accurate cutting and drilling].
 
*Before installing weld-on parts (core supports, quarter panels, rear panels, etc.), scuff the inside areas. It's easier to do this before parts are installed.
 
*Before installing weld-on parts (core supports, quarter panels, rear panels, etc.), scuff the inside areas. It's easier to do this before parts are installed.
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*For doing small touchups without ending up with a huge repair area from sanding, cut sanding discs down to size.
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*For doing small touch ups without ending up with a huge repair area from sanding, cut sanding discs down to size.
 
*To remove creases and dents from plastic bumpers, heat them with a heat gun, and work the area while it's hot. A wallpaper seam roller can be used to work dents out from the back side of the bumper, and a window screen bead installer can be used to push creases down from the front. Flex filler can be used for finishing.
 
*To remove creases and dents from plastic bumpers, heat them with a heat gun, and work the area while it's hot. A wallpaper seam roller can be used to work dents out from the back side of the bumper, and a window screen bead installer can be used to push creases down from the front. Flex filler can be used for finishing.
 
*When chemical stripping parts with heavy buildup:
 
*When chemical stripping parts with heavy buildup:
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*Oil filter shells can be used for making recessed tail lights. They come in many different sizes, and the larger ones for commercial trucks may be especially useful.
 
*Oil filter shells can be used for making recessed tail lights. They come in many different sizes, and the larger ones for commercial trucks may be especially useful.
 
*To make a custom body grommet, use a section of vacuum hose that's been split down the middle with a razor or similar tool. A photo of this can be seen here: [http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/17678/size/big/cat/500/page/ Hotrodders Photo Gallery].
 
*To make a custom body grommet, use a section of vacuum hose that's been split down the middle with a razor or similar tool. A photo of this can be seen here: [http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/17678/size/big/cat/500/page/ Hotrodders Photo Gallery].
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*To pull weld studs easier than the pullers can that come with the cheap weld stud guns, weld a pair of vicegrips to a regular dent puller. They can be tack welded to a screw-on accessory and used as a new attachment.
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*To pull weld studs easier than the pullers can that come with the cheap weld stud guns, weld a pair of vice grips to a regular dent puller. They can be tack welded to a screw-on accessory and used as a new attachment.
  
 
==Questionable or disputed tips==
 
==Questionable or disputed tips==
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[[Category:Body and exterior]]
 
[[Category:Body and exterior]]
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[[Category:Good articles]]
 
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Latest revision as of 12:06, 7 January 2015

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