Freeing a stuck engine

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(Using penetrating fluids)
(Using penetrating fluids)
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===Using penetrating fluids===
 
===Using penetrating fluids===
Using a fluid that will penetrate and lubricate is key. You need something that will penetrate, stay wet, and wick its way up into the smallest area. Ordinary motor oil will coat but penetrates at a very slow pace. Petroleum or mineral spirits will get into small places but will dry out over time. Paraffin will wick its way up or down a threaded bolt, but only when it is melted. Acids will eat their way through but can cause damage of its own and may be hard to control as well as dangerous to handle. Caustics are more of a slow burn and may require heat to work better, and are often harmful to aluminum/aluminum alloys. Water will penetrate, wet, and coat but has many limitations. Diesel fuel is a middle-of-the-road fluid that will creep, coat and stay wet over time but reeks to high hell and will stink up everything it contacts- you included. If you're feeling adventurous, you can mix up your own solution (WD-40 did). Or just spend a few bucks on a large can of Marvel Mystery oil, WD-40, or PB Blaster. (Just used all methods above and freed up Mercruiser 200 that sat for 2 years with oil drain pug removed and water filling up the oil pan. Mix 1 part MMO, 1 part WD-40 Specialist, 1 part PB Blaster and 1 part ATF -the cheap stuff works just fine as you will be draining. Remove spark plugs and spray Sea Foam Deep Creep [ one can on each side of block ] into cylinders and let sit for 1-2 days. With Proforms Engine rotation adapter p/n 66782 or similar, attempt to turn crank in small increments. Fill cylinders again and reinsert plugs. Wait 1-2 days and repeat, this time, fill the engine with the 5 gal mix posted above. Continue to turn crank in small increments. Mine moved about 1/8". Continue the cylinder spray alternating PB blaster and Sea Foam Deep creep. After 2 weeks, top of engine with 4 quarts of 15-40 hd oil. Continue to turn crank. Mine let go tonight after 2 weeks of this treatment, great feeling. Be sure to tap crank as mentioned in this article with longitudinal force, this seemed to be what caused it to "let go". Note - use the 1" socket on the Engine rotation adapter or you will break the tool from force on the internal 1/2" drive cut out while trying to break the engine free. Good luck and the hardest part, HAVE PATIENCE)
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Using a fluid that will penetrate and lubricate is key. You need something that will penetrate, stay wet, and wick its way up into the smallest area. Ordinary motor oil will coat but penetrates at a very slow pace. Petroleum or mineral spirits will get into small places but will dry out over time. Paraffin will wick its way up or down a threaded bolt, but only when it is melted. Acids will eat their way through but can cause damage of its own and may be hard to control as well as dangerous to handle. Caustics are more of a slow burn and may require heat to work better, and are often harmful to aluminum/aluminum alloys. Water will penetrate, wet, and coat but has many limitations. Diesel fuel is a middle-of-the-road fluid that will creep, coat and stay wet over time but reeks to high hell and will stink up everything it contacts- you included. If you're feeling adventurous, you can mix up your own solution (WD-40 did). Or just spend a few bucks on a large can of Marvel Mystery oil, WD-40, or PB Blaster.  
  
 
Know what metal that you are working with and apply the correct solution to get the best result. Most metals will form what is known as an oxide, where oxygen from the air mixes on the surface with the base metal. We do know that when these oxides dry out they are usually hard to remove by any means other than mechanical (sanding or wire brush/wheel, sand/bead blasting).
 
Know what metal that you are working with and apply the correct solution to get the best result. Most metals will form what is known as an oxide, where oxygen from the air mixes on the surface with the base metal. We do know that when these oxides dry out they are usually hard to remove by any means other than mechanical (sanding or wire brush/wheel, sand/bead blasting).

Revision as of 22:14, 15 April 2015

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