Fat-fendered Ford battery tray

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 ==Preamble==
-In most of the older pre-50's cars and trucks, the battery was located under the floor boards or mounted in a tight location in the engine compartment. The battery used then was usually a small 8X10X10 six volt battery or a long type 4X16X10 battery. Access to the battery was usually limited and a best, very trying to remove or service the battery. Anyone rebuilding a car of this vintage will often opt for a bigger 12 volt battery which offers more CCA (cold cranking amps). But where do you put it? Generally, the 'new' battery is installed in the trunk or mounted somewhere under the frame and 'long' cables are then run up to the front engine compartment to the starter and fuse panel. Here is an alternative placement for the battery that is not only close to the starter and fuse panel, but uses up some of that dead wasted space we never think about. This is the large area behind the Fat Fenders and front wheels of most 40's vehicles. A properly installed battery and tray can be installed in this location and function just like an under hood or in-trunk battery.
+[[Image:Side_view.JPG‎|300px|thumb]]
+In most pre-50's cars and trucks, the battery was located under the floor boards or mounted in a tight location in the engine compartment. Batteries came in small 8X10X10 six-volt or long 4X16X10 sizes and access was limited, making removal or servicing difficult.
+Rebuilding a car of this vintage meant opting for a 12-volt battery with more CCA (cold cranking amps) but how to fit it? Generally, the 'new' battery is installed in the trunk or mounted somewhere under the frame. Cables are then run up to the engine compartment, starter and fuse panel.
+Here is an alternative placement that is not only close to the starter and fuse panel, but  uses up some of the space we never think about: the area behind the fat fenders and front wheels of most 40's vehicles. A properly installed battery and tray in this location can function just like an under-hood or in-trunk battery.
 ==How to build it==
-Begin by taking a small cardboard box much the same size as your battery that you will be using. It is easier to handle then a regular 40 pound battery with clothing-eating acid spewing from it when dropped. Even using a box and inch or so larger will give you additional clearances for cables and hold downs. Place the box against the frame area and try to imagine what kind of bracket you will have to build to get it to stay there. You can use duct tape to secure the box in place while you play with flexible steel strapping (usually found on packing crates)that you can shape into 90 degree bends to hold up the box (battery).
+Begin by making a small cardboard box, approimately the size of the new battery. The mock-up is easier to handle than a regular 40-pound acid-filled battery and making it an inch or so larger will cover additional clearances for cables and hold-downs.
-The location should be a place where you can access the battery for servicing or removal, a place where mechanical damage from flying debris, i.e. stones, etc. is at a minimum or a accessory shield can be installed to protect the battery casing. The frame of the vehicle should be close to the location as it is one of the strongest mounting points that can be offered.
+Place the box against the frame area and try to imagine what kind of bracket will be required to hold it there. Duct tape can secure the box in place while flexible steel strapping (usually found on packing crates) can be shaped into 90 degree bends to support the battery.
-What about water and dampness? Most batteries manufactured today are sealed maintainance-free units and are 99% sealed against outside water sources. Cable connections should be coated with dielectric grease to seal out corrosion. I recommend putting your battery in a plastic marine battery case which will not only provide waterproofing but protection from mechanical damage.
+The location should be easily accessible for servicing or removal yet protected from potential damage from stones and other debris. An accessory shield can be added to further protect the battery casing. Ideally, the frame of the vehicle should be close to this location as it is one of the strongest mounting points available.
-If you are using a plastic marine battery case, then use that instead of the cardboard box, to find your location.
+"What about water and dampness?" you ask. Well, most modern batteries are sealed, maintenance-free units, 99 percent impervious to outside water sources and cable connections can be coated with dielectric grease to seal out corrosion. In addition, you can put your battery in a plastic marine battery case, which will provide both waterproofing and protection from physical damage.
+A plastic marine battery case can be used in place of the cardboard box to find your location.
-You can use cardboard to form a tray to hold the battery and by making a 90 degree bend in the cardboard, you can run it up along side of the frame and use the frame to stabilize and mount the tray to. You can use nuts and washers, brackets, etc to extend out from the frame to give the tray a solid mounting surface.
+You can use cardboard to help design a battery tray and, by making a 90 degree bend in the cardboard, you can run it up along side of the frame. Use the frame to stabilize and mount the tray. Nuts, washers, brackets...etc can extend out from the frame, giving the tray a solid mounting surface.
-To utilize the vertical side of the tray, a cutout can be made and bent outward using to 45 degree bends and adding a hole for a mounting bolt to make an offset for a mounting location to the frame. If laid out correctly, all three sides plus the bottom can be cut out of one piece of flat stock and bent to form the final battery tray. See pictures.
+To utilize the vertical side of the tray, a cutout can be made and bent 45 degree outward, adding a hole for a mounting bolt to create an offset for a mounting location to the frame. If laid out correctly, all three sides plus the bottom can be cut out of one piece of flat stock and bent to form the final battery tray. See pictures.
-==What should it me made out of?==
+==Construction==
-I have made these trays out of 1/8 steel plate backed with 1/4 angle iron and flat stock, as well as stainless steel and aluminum. What you use will depend on what you have around and the equipment that you have to bend it and fasten it together. The box that you see here was made using a six inch vise and angle iron to make the bends that you see here. Stainless steel makes a nice bright maintainance free battery tray. Aluminum is easy to bend and drill, but requires TIG to weld on. Combinations of any of these metals can readily be used and will make a nice strong tray.
+You can make trays out of 1/8 steel plate backed with 1/4 angle iron and flat stock, as well as stainless steel and aluminum. What you use will depend on what you have around and the equipment that you have to bend it and fasten it together. The box that you see here was made using a six inch vise and angle iron. Stainless steel makes a nice, bright, maintenance-free battery tray. Aluminum is easy to bend and drill, but requires a TIG or MIG equipped with pure argon and either a teflon liner or a spoolgun to weld on. Not all migs can acept a spoolgun so check your owners manual for details on welding aluminum. Combinations of any of these metals can readily be used and will make a nice strong tray.
 ==Pictorial build and installation in '40 Ford pickup==
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 [[Category:Electrical]]
-[[Category:Good articles]]

Fat-fendered Ford battery tray

Latest revision as of 17:10, 8 December 2023

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