Rust, pitted
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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[[Image:Pitted_rust_before.jpg|thumb|350px|Pitted rust before treatment.]][[Image:Pitted_rust_after.jpg|thumb|350px|Pitted rust after treatment.]] | [[Image:Pitted_rust_before.jpg|thumb|350px|Pitted rust before treatment.]][[Image:Pitted_rust_after.jpg|thumb|350px|Pitted rust after treatment.]] | ||
| + | ==Overview== | ||
Pitted [[rust]] is a common problem when dealing with body panels. The "best" way to deal with it is generously cut it out, and [[patching a body panel|replace it with new metal]]. However, this isn't always practical, so it's frequently handled by mechanically and/or chemically removing the rust, "filling" the pitted areas with a purpose-specific product, and priming. | Pitted [[rust]] is a common problem when dealing with body panels. The "best" way to deal with it is generously cut it out, and [[patching a body panel|replace it with new metal]]. However, this isn't always practical, so it's frequently handled by mechanically and/or chemically removing the rust, "filling" the pitted areas with a purpose-specific product, and priming. | ||
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* Another alternative is to use phosphoric acid. It is readily available at home centers such as Home Depot under the brand name Phosphoric Plus. It may be brushed on or a part may be soaked in the solution. Heavy pitting will take multiple applications with some wire brushing in between to speed the process. The chemical reaction of the phosphoric acid with iron oxide produces black, water-soluble iron phosphate, which can be scrubbed off. A follow up passivating treatment containing zinc phosphate, such as PPG DX520, can be used to prevent flash rusting. Phosphoric acid rust-removing products may or may not contain zinc phosphate, so read labels and directions carefully. | * Another alternative is to use phosphoric acid. It is readily available at home centers such as Home Depot under the brand name Phosphoric Plus. It may be brushed on or a part may be soaked in the solution. Heavy pitting will take multiple applications with some wire brushing in between to speed the process. The chemical reaction of the phosphoric acid with iron oxide produces black, water-soluble iron phosphate, which can be scrubbed off. A follow up passivating treatment containing zinc phosphate, such as PPG DX520, can be used to prevent flash rusting. Phosphoric acid rust-removing products may or may not contain zinc phosphate, so read labels and directions carefully. | ||
| − | + | ===DIY electrolytic rust removal for smaller parts=== | |
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See [[Rust#Electrolysis|Electrolytic rust removal]]. | See [[Rust#Electrolysis|Electrolytic rust removal]]. | ||
| − | + | ===Removal with heat=== | |
| − | *Heat the pitted area until it glows, then cool it with oil on a rag. This fix should only be used on small areas because it can warp the surrounding metal, causing wrinkles and shrink marks. | + | *Heat the pitted area until it glows, then cool it with oil on a rag. This fix should only be used on small areas because it can warp the surrounding metal, causing wrinkles and shrink marks. |
| − | + | ===Wire feed spray welding=== | |
Newer methods introduced to the market include 'spray welding', where molten galvanized metal is sprayed on the rust pitted area until it is covered. See [http://www.rustbustersllc.com/rustbustwebmovie.asf this video] for an example. | Newer methods introduced to the market include 'spray welding', where molten galvanized metal is sprayed on the rust pitted area until it is covered. See [http://www.rustbustersllc.com/rustbustwebmovie.asf this video] for an example. | ||
| + | ===Welding rust pinholes=== | ||
| + | Rust pinholes can be difficult to repair because the "hole" is usually more like a "crater". The hole itself is at the bottom of a thinned-out, crater-like area of metal. First, remove any rust using the above methods. Then, these methods have been mentioned: | ||
| − | + | *Clamp a piece of copper to the other side of the panel, covering the pinhole. Weld won't stick to the panel, and will act as a heat sink so the panel doesn't warp as much. Then, fill the hole in with a MIG welder. When done, unclamp the copper. | |
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| − | + | *Drill a hole though the pinhole that is just large enough to remove the jagged edges of the rust hole. If this hole is smaller than 1/8" just fill the hole with weld material. If the hole is bigger than 1/8" and smaller than 3/8" get a nail that the shank will fit though the hole but that the head won't. Remove any coating from the nail. Put the shank though the hole from the back side. Hold the nail's shank while welding the nail to the panel. Be sure to hold the nail tight against the inside of the panel. After the weld has cooled cut off the shank of the nail and grind the substrate smooth. If the hole is bigger than 3/8" it is time to begin cutting out larger areas of metal and welding in new sheetmetal. Before you start any welding process make sure to apply weld though primer to provide proper protection from future rust. | |
| − | + | *Solder filling can be done with specially formulated flux and solder combinations at temperatures as low as 350 degrees Fahrenheit. | |
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| − | *Solder | + | |
==Filling in the pits== | ==Filling in the pits== | ||
Now that the rust has been removed, the pitted area of bare metal has to be filled. First, clean with a wax and grease remover ''(confirm this, and add other cleaning/coating options here)''. Then, the pits are typically filled by priming with a high-build primer, filler or similar product. Generally, the less product used, the better. However, it may be necessary to repeatedly prime and block sand to fill the pits. | Now that the rust has been removed, the pitted area of bare metal has to be filled. First, clean with a wax and grease remover ''(confirm this, and add other cleaning/coating options here)''. Then, the pits are typically filled by priming with a high-build primer, filler or similar product. Generally, the less product used, the better. However, it may be necessary to repeatedly prime and block sand to fill the pits. | ||
| + | If the metal is to be chromed, then the pits should be filled with lead-free solder and then block sanded to contour. | ||
===High-build primers and related products=== | ===High-build primers and related products=== | ||
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*[http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=171 Evercoat FeatherFill G2] | *[http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=171 Evercoat FeatherFill G2] | ||
*[http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=70 Evercoat FeatherFill] | *[http://www.evercoat.com/productDetail.aspx?pID=70 Evercoat FeatherFill] | ||
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==Additional resources== | ==Additional resources== | ||
| − | *[http://www.materialsengineer.com/G-Pitting-Corrosion.htm Pitting Corrosion] | + | *[http://www.materialsengineer.com/G-Pitting-Corrosion.htm Pitting Corrosion] from MaterialsEngineer.com |
| − | *[http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-pitting/Pitting.htm Pitting corrosion] | + | *[http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-pitting/Pitting.htm Pitting corrosion] from Corrosion-Doctors.org |
| − | + | *[http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-pitting/shapes.htm Corrosion pit shapes] from Corrosion-Doctors.org | |
| − | *[http://www.corrosion-doctors.org/Forms-pitting/shapes.htm Corrosion pit shapes] | + | *[http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitting_corrosion Pitting corrosion] from Wikipedia |
[[Category:Body and exterior]] | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
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