Removing chrome trim
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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| + | ==Tools== | ||
*Take a classic bottle opener, wrap it in masking tape, and use it to remove chrome trim around door edges. Then, move along the trim in 4-6 inch increments, gently lifting off the chrome trim. | *Take a classic bottle opener, wrap it in masking tape, and use it to remove chrome trim around door edges. Then, move along the trim in 4-6 inch increments, gently lifting off the chrome trim. | ||
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| + | ==Filling trim holes== | ||
| + | ===Practice=== | ||
| + | Use scrap to learn to welds sheet metal without warpage. | ||
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| + | ===Brazing=== | ||
| + | Use a filler piece just a little larger than the hole. Sand off the paint around the hole. Then oversize the hole to match the rod. Sand the inside around the hole, polish the rod so it is clean. Don't use galvanized bolts for the rod. The rod has to be a tight fit. | ||
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| + | Carefully start heating the rod then when it is hot use flux coated brazing rod and at the right temperature it will flow around the joint. Check the backside for weld flow. Cool with a rag then grind/sand both sides smooth, then you can metal finish it and low temp heat shrink if you need too. The whole key is not to get too much heat and start warping everything. | ||
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| + | ===Leading holes=== | ||
| + | Some guys used body solder. In order to get the solder to stick you must sand and clean around the hole, then make each hole into a bullet hole. You need to have bullet holes so there is a larger area around the hole for the lead to stick and not fall out of the hole. Use a punch and a big hammer and a hard blow | ||
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| + | Then use tinning compound and a wad of steel wool. Hold it with a pair of pliers and do the regular leading process. If you have a mig or tig welder, sand and clean everything and drill a little oversize to clean out the inside of the hole. Use a copper backup behind the hole. Flattened copper water pipe works pretty good. Still, don't overheat the weld area! Use small tacks and cool in between. Sometimes you get a better weld finish by starting on the backside. Sometimes using a little heat with oxy-acetylene or tig to reflow the weld from the front. Don't overheat. Use a heat sink compound to absorb the heat. Practice until you get the hang of it. | ||
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| + | One method of filling holes in sheet metal is with 16 d nails pushed thrugh from the backside to fill the holes. Tack in place then finish weld. | ||
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| + | ==Removing body side trim== | ||
| + | Most moldings use a threaded stud(s). Best to remove the interior panels as necessary. If you have the metal push-in clips, you need to squeeze the legs in (a small socket on a 1/4" nut driver sometimes works) or weld a piece of tubing to the end of an old screwdriver at 90 degrees to compress the legs to the same size as the drilled holes. Then push out the legs with a piece of rod through the tube. | ||
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| + | For welded stud clips, when you get the end nuts off gently pull the molding away from the body with a slight twist. Use a plastic bondo spreader to work under the bottom edge to lift the molding. Most Ford moldings were designed with more curl (grip) under the top edge. Moldings that use metal clips have a wide spot underneath where the clip was inserted then slid to the mark on the assembly fixture to align with the holes. Most slide better one way than the other. | ||
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| + | ==Removing welded clip style windshield and back glass trim== | ||
| + | The molding was held in with clips over weld studs. To prevent damage to paint you can apply a strip of masking tape. Then use a putty knife; about 1 inch wide works in many cases. Start on the body metal side and pry a little to see where the clip is located and pry up gently. Usually best to start at the end of the overlapped pieces. The first clip is usually a couple of inches from the joint. Sometimes you have to work two spots at a time. If you have a pick-a-part type wrecking yard, go and practice. Some of the clips are different colors. They have different shapes for different size moldings. If you break the weld studs the factory repair was to use a small drill point screw near the location. Pan head style screws used for metal wall studs work pretty good, | ||
[[Category:Body and exterior]] | [[Category:Body and exterior]] | ||
| − | + | [[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | |
| − | + | [[Category:Undeveloped Body and exterior articles]] | |
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