Swap solutions: Rear axles

From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
Jump to: navigation, search
(I edited this from personal experience and added information for other people to learn what it takes to build a good rear)
(added researched data)
 
Line 1: Line 1:
 +
{| class="wikitable sortable"
 +
|-
 +
! Manufacturer !! Axle family !! Application !! Brake type !! Suspension type !! Width, wheel-mount to wheel-mount (drum/rotor mounted) !! Width between spring perches, center to center (for leaf axles) !! Width between backing plates !! Width between shock mounts, center to center !! Weight (w/wo brakes?) !! Additional information !! Improvements !! Vehicles !! Notes
 +
|-
 +
| GM || 7.5" / 7.625" 10-bolt || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum || Coil, triangulated 4-link rear suspension || 58" || || 52.5" || || || Type 2 carrier || Replace drum brake wheel cylinder w/S10, it is larger. Another improvement is to swap in a different ring gear set as many of these vehicles came with extremely low ratios (i.e., 2.4) || El Camino, Malibu, Regal, Cutlass, Grand Prix, Monte Carlo, Bonneville (1978-86) ||
 +
|-
 +
| GM || 8.5" 10-bolt || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum || Coil, triangulated 4-link rear suspension || 58" || || 52.5" || || || || || GNX, 442, Regal Turbo, & Grand National || Straight swap-in
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum || triangulated 4-link rear suspension || 58.75" || || 53.0" || || || || Due to scarcity of GM 8.5" g-body axles, this gives a 1978-88 G-body vehicle a newer & stronger replacement || 1986-1993 Mustang V-8 || Requires modification:
 +
 +
1) driveshaft to match the flat-flange-style pinion yoke
 +
 +
2) cutting off the old spring perches and welding on a G-body set
 +
 +
3) adjustable upper control arms with conversion brackets to mount to
 +
the frame (axle has cast-in dog-ears for UCA (Upper Control Arm) but
 +
at a different angle so will need to use UCA with spherical bushings)
 +
 +
4) spherical housing bearings
 +
 +
5) adjustable G-body lower control arms (LCA (Lower Control Arms)
 +
will require spacers, unless they are changed also)
 +
 +
6) lug bolt pattern (can keep stock Ford axles with lug-pattern or
 +
replace axles with GM lug pattern to match the front)
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Disc || triangulated 4-link rear suspension || 60.25" || || || || || || Due to scarcity of GM 8.5" g-body axles, this gives a 1978-88 G-body vehicle a newer & stronger replacement || 1994-1998 Mustang || Requires modification:
 +
 +
1) driveshaft to match the flat-flange-style pinion yoke
 +
 +
2) cutting off the old spring perches and welding on a G-body set
 +
 +
3) adjustable upper control arms with conversion brackets to mount to
 +
the frame (axle has cast-in dog-ears for UCA (Upper Control Arm) but
 +
at a different angle so will need to use UCA with spherical bushings)
 +
 +
4) spherical housing bearings
 +
 +
5) adjustable G-body lower control arms (LCA (Lower Control Arms)
 +
will require spacers, unless they are changed also)
 +
 +
6) lug bolt pattern (can keep stock Ford axles with lug-pattern or
 +
replace axles with GM lug pattern to match the front)
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Disc || triangulated 4-link rear suspension || 61.625" || || || || || || Due to scarcity of GM 8.5" g-body axles, this gives a 1978-88 G-body vehicle a newer & stronger replacement || 1999-2004 Mustang || Requires modification:
 +
 +
1) driveshaft to match the flat-flange-style pinion yoke
 +
 +
2) cutting off the old spring perches and welding on a G-body set
 +
 +
3) adjustable upper control arms with conversion brackets to mount to
 +
the frame (axle has cast-in dog-ears for UCA (Upper Control Arm) but
 +
at a different angle so will need to use UCA with spherical bushings)
 +
 +
4) spherical housing bearings
 +
 +
5) adjustable G-body lower control arms (LCA (Lower Control Arms)
 +
will require spacers, unless they are changed also)
 +
 +
6) lug bolt pattern (can keep stock Ford axles with lug-pattern or
 +
replace axles with GM lug pattern to match the front)
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum or Disc || || 59.75" || || 53.5" || || || || Due to scarcity of GM 8.5" g-body axles, this gives a 1978-88 G-body vehicle a newer & stronger replacement || 1994-2003 Explorer || Requires modification:
 +
 +
1) driveshaft to match the flat-flange-style pinion yoke
 +
 +
2) cutting off the old spring perches and welding on a G-body set
 +
 +
3) adjustable upper control arms with conversion brackets to mount to
 +
the frame
 +
 +
Axle does not have cast-in dog-ears for UCA (Upper Control Arm), will
 +
need to weld on a conversion kit for UCA
 +
 +
4) spherical housing bearings
 +
 +
5) adjustable G-body lower control arms (LCA (Lower Control Arms)
 +
will require spacers, unless they are changed also)
 +
 +
6) lug bolt pattern (can keep stock Ford axles with lug-pattern or
 +
replace axles with GM lug pattern to match the front)
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum || || 58.75" || || 53.5" || || || || Due to scarcity of GM 8.5" g-body axles, this gives a 1978-88 G-body vehicle a newer & stronger replacement || 1990-1997 Ranger || Requires modification:
 +
 +
1) driveshaft to match the flat-flange-style pinion yoke
 +
 +
2) cutting off the old spring perches and welding on a G-body set
 +
 +
3) adjustable upper control arms with conversion brackets to mount to
 +
the frame
 +
 +
Axle does not have cast-in dog-ears for UCA (Upper Control Arm), will
 +
need to weld on a conversion kit for UCA
 +
 +
4) spherical housing bearings
 +
 +
5) adjustable G-body lower control arms (LCA (Lower Control Arms)
 +
will require spacers, unless they are changed also)
 +
 +
6) lug bolt pattern (can keep stock Ford axles with lug-pattern or
 +
replace axles with GM lug pattern to match the front)
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum || || 59.75" || || 53.5" || || || || Due to scarcity of GM 8.5" g-body axles, this gives a 1978-88 G-body vehicle a newer & stronger replacement || 1990-1995 Aerostar || Requires modification:
 +
 +
1) driveshaft to match the flat-flange-style pinion yoke
 +
 +
2) cutting off the old spring perches and welding on a G-body set
 +
 +
3) adjustable upper control arms with conversion brackets to mount to
 +
the frame
 +
 +
Axle does not have cast-in dog-ears for UCA (Upper Control Arm), will
 +
need to weld on a conversion kit for UCA
 +
 +
4) spherical housing bearings
 +
 +
5) adjustable G-body lower control arms (LCA (Lower Control Arms)
 +
will require spacers, unless they are changed also)
 +
 +
6) lug bolt pattern (can keep stock Ford axles with lug-pattern or
 +
replace axles with GM lug pattern to match the front)
 +
|-
 +
| Ford || 8.8" || G-body 1978-1988 || Drum or Disc || || 61.50" to 62.80" || || || || || || || Other potential Ford donor vehicles with this axle are 1979-2002 Crown Victoria, 1984-1992 Lincoln Mark VII, and 1987-1988 Thunderbird Turbo Coupe || These donors have axle widths ranging from 61.50" to 62.80" which would require expensive work by a machine shop
 +
|-
 +
|}
 +
 
{{youcanedit}}
 
{{youcanedit}}
−
This "Swap Solutions" series of Wiki articles is intended to help the customizer, swapper, shade-tree mechanic or junkyard crawler.
+
This "Swap Solutions" series of Wiki articles is intended to help the
 +
customizer, swapper, shade-tree mechanic or junkyard crawler.
  
−
The idea is this: when you pull an axle, engine, tranny, driveshaft, bearing, or ANYTHING from your car, measure the heck out of it.  
+
The idea is this: when you pull an axle, engine, tranny, driveshaft,
 +
bearing, or ANYTHING from your car, measure the heck out of it.
  
−
Countless times I've found myself wishing I had a source to know if this axle will fit that car, how much that ISB Cummins engine weighs or if a driveshaft already exists that fits my custom install instead of paying to have one fabricated.
+
Countless times I've found myself wishing I had a source to know if
 +
this axle will fit that car, how much that ISB Cummins engine weighs
 +
or if a driveshaft already exists that fits my custom install instead
 +
of paying to have one fabricated.
  
−
This article is for Rear Axles. The basic idea is so that when shopping for a 9" Ford to put under a custom-chassis, the user can scroll through and review a listing of axles that will fit (or come close) and possibly avoid headaches.
+
This article is for Rear Axles. The basic idea is so that when
 +
shopping for a 9" Ford to put under a custom-chassis, the user can
 +
scroll through and review a listing of axles that will fit (or come
 +
close) and possibly avoid headaches.
  
−
Using the formatting below, start adding info. You can't add too much information. Make sure you give the application(s), year(s) and any possible tidbits you can. If someone can format this better than I can, please do, but basically use your codes to make columns for the following characteristics.</p>
+
Using the formatting below, start adding info. You can't add too much
 +
information. Make sure you give the application(s), year(s) and any
 +
possible tidbits you can. If someone can format this better than I
 +
can, please do, but basically use your codes to make columns for the
 +
following characteristics.
  
−
#Axle family (like GM 8.5&quot; ten bolt, or Dana 44)
+
#Axle family (like GM 8.5 ten bolt, or Dana 44)
−
#Application. What year, what vehicle, and any determining factor. For instance, if I want to find the same 12-bolt you described, it might be helpful in finding it to know that yours was found in a station wagon with a big block. Even if you only know YOUR axle's year it will help.
+
#Application. What year, what vehicle, and any determining factor.
−
#Type of brake, disk or drum and their diameter   * Or if you will be able to use your factory brakes, if you like.
+
For instance, if I want to find the same 12-bolt you described, it
−
#Type of suspension, coil or leaf, trailing arm or torque arm, etc. * Factory 9" housings do not have a torque arm, although an aftermarket one can.
+
might be helpful in finding it to know that yours was found in a
 +
station wagon with a big block. Even if you only know YOUR axle's year
 +
it will help.
 +
#Type of brake, disk or drum and their diameter * Or if you will be
 +
able to use your factory brakes, if you like.
 +
#Type of suspension, coil or leaf, trailing arm or torque arm, etc. *
 +
Factory 9" housings do not have a torque arm, although an aftermarket
 +
one can.
 
#Width from wheel mount to wheel mount
 
#Width from wheel mount to wheel mount
 
#Width between spring perches, center to center (for leaf axles)
 
#Width between spring perches, center to center (for leaf axles)
 
#Width between backing plates
 
#Width between backing plates
 
#Width between shock mounts, center to center
 
#Width between shock mounts, center to center
−
#Weight (and note if its with or without brakes)  
+
#Weight (and note if its with or without brakes)
 
#Notes for additional information
 
#Notes for additional information
 
#Add columns as needed.
 
#Add columns as needed.
−
**
 
−
Pretty much if you are to swap a stronger rear end in to your car, you are probably looking at a 9", 12 bolt, or Dana 60 (maybe 44?).  The main thing is what will it take to make your new rear fit? For example, If I was to swap a junkyard 9" in my 99 SS Camaro, I would have to change the length of the housing, weld on the control arm brackets, coil spring brackets, shock brackets, special length axles, I would have to weld on brackets for my factory brake backing plates to use my factory or factory style brakes. Torque arm bracket (or go with ladder bars) and some people want to keep the Anti-Lock-Brakes, so if you want to do that, you have to have a special diff carrier, and you have to drill a hole in the housing to mount the sensor. After that, your yoke might be the same, but it might be different, so thats another ting to consider. Most of the time you will need you will need a new driveshaft.
 
−
Certain cars definitely need a rear end upgrade, but you really need to do your research and figure out what you are getting yourself in to. Once completed, it will have been completely worth it.
 
  
 +
Pretty much if you are to swap a stronger rear end in to your car,
 +
you are probably looking at a Ford 9", GM 12 bolt, or Dana 60 (maybe
 +
44?).
 +
 +
The main item is what will it take to make your new rear fit? For
 +
example, If you want to swap a junkyard 9" in a 99 SS Camaro, the
 +
width of the housing would need adjustment, weld on the suspension
 +
control arm brackets, coil spring brackets, shock brackets. Special
 +
length axles are needed if the housing is narrowed.
 +
 +
Brackets for factory brake backing plates to use factory style
 +
brakes. Torque arm bracket (or go with ladder bars) and some people
 +
want to keep the Anti-Lock-Brakes. If you want to do that, you have to
 +
have a special diff carrier, and you have to drill a hole in the
 +
housing to mount the sensor to read the reluctor ring.
 +
 +
Your drive shaft yoke might be the same, but it might be different,
 +
so that is another thing that will attention. Most of the time you
 +
will need you will need a new driveshaft.
 +
 +
Once completed, a rear differential swap will have been completely
 +
worth it.
  
 
[[Category:Rearend]]
 
[[Category:Rearend]]
  
 
{{youcanedit}}
 
{{youcanedit}}

Latest revision as of 19:36, 4 December 2019

Retrieved from "https://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/index.php?title=Swap_solutions:_Rear_axles&oldid=3476455"
Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox
 
Terms of Use
Copyright
Privacy Policy