Removing stuck fasteners
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| + | ===Safety=== | ||
| + | {{Warning}}Always wear proper eye, face, body and hand protection when dealing with sharp tools, hammers and chisels, flames or chemicals. | ||
| + | *[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Health_and_safety_in_the_shop_or_garage Health and safety in the shop or garage] | ||
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| + | Position yourself such that if your hand slips, you're not going to hurt yourself. It is usually safer to push away from yourself (if you slip while pulling, a wrench to the face/ribs does not feel good). Best practice is to fit yourself with appropriate mechanic's gloves in the event you slip or the fastener abruptly moves, hands can impact adjacent objects. | ||
==General advice== | ==General advice== | ||
| − | + | No matter what technique is used, when removing stuck fasteners, you need to pay attention to what is turning and what is not. | |
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| − | In theory, there should be nothing to stop you finger-tightening a | + | In theory, there should be nothing to stop you finger-tightening a non self-locking threaded fastener until it's snug, or from easily loosening a bolt once it has been fastened snugly. In practice, it's often quite hard to turn some bolts or loosen other bolts, even when they are slack. The reason for this is that dirt gets stuck in the bolt threads, and it gets trapped when you start tightening the bolt, making it harder to turn. This is a warning sign- if you can't finger tighten a bolt until it's snug then there is something wrong. If you are trying to put a bolt in, then take it out and clean the threads. If you are trying to loosen or remove a stuck bolt, see if you can access the end of the bolt (opposite end of the bolt head). Put a little grease on the threads before you try again. It's a bad idea to get out the spanner wrench early on to try tightening a bolt that isn't turning smoothly. Even if you get it tightened, that dirt is still in the threads, and it's quite likely that it'll jam the threads when you try to next remove the bolt. |
==Methods for removing stuck/frozen fasteners== | ==Methods for removing stuck/frozen fasteners== | ||
| − | Most stuck fasteners are stuck because of corrosion | + | Most stuck fasteners are stuck because of corrosion, usually [[rust]]. There are at least three effective methods to break loose a fastener: |
*Mechanical movement -- often simply a whack with a hammer. | *Mechanical movement -- often simply a whack with a hammer. | ||
*Differential heating -- making one part expand more than the other. | *Differential heating -- making one part expand more than the other. | ||
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===Strike it with a hammer=== | ===Strike it with a hammer=== | ||
| − | Though this may not be practical for all situations, a stuck bolt can often be broken loose simply by hitting it on the head with a hammer. In such a case, a brass drift may be helpful. Drifts of varying lengths can be made from brass bar, and used to access hidden bolts. Brass is used because it's softer, and thus less likely to damage the head of a fastener. Brass hammers are also available and one about 3 or 4 lbs. in weight is good for this. | + | Though this may not be practical for all situations, a stuck bolt can often be broken loose simply by hitting it on the head with a hammer. In such a case, a brass drift may be helpful. Drifts of varying lengths can be made from brass bar, and used to access hidden bolts. Brass is used because it's softer, and thus less likely to damage the head of a fastener. Brass and lead hammers are also available and one about 3 or 4 lbs. in weight is good for this. |
Another option is to get a wrench or ratchet onto the stuck fastener, and then hit the wrench or ratchet with a hammer, creating a manual impact wrench. | Another option is to get a wrench or ratchet onto the stuck fastener, and then hit the wrench or ratchet with a hammer, creating a manual impact wrench. | ||
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The best thing to do is to get a wrench or ratchet on it, and either hit it with your hand or a hammer several times. The sudden force will break the bolt loose with less of a chance of twisting off the head. | The best thing to do is to get a wrench or ratchet on it, and either hit it with your hand or a hammer several times. The sudden force will break the bolt loose with less of a chance of twisting off the head. | ||
| − | Some times a | + | Some times a homemade impact wrench will work, get a cheap wrench that fits tight and hit it with a hammer, watching carefully that it isn't damaging the fastener. It's important when loosening this way to use a tight fitting wrench like a 6-point box end, as a loose fitting one will round the bolt head. |
===Tap it for a few minutes=== | ===Tap it for a few minutes=== | ||
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===Metric method=== | ===Metric method=== | ||
| − | Hammer a close-fitting metric socket tightly on a SAE nut, or vice | + | Hammer a close-fitting metric socket tightly on a SAE nut, or vice versa. Then use breaker bar socket wrench (or longest you can fit in a cramped space) to turn it. |
| − | There is a product that works basically the same way, but the inside of the sockets are lined with sharpened flutes that are also angled to dig further into the rusted nut or bolt as you turn the wrench. These are called | + | There is a product that works basically the same way, but the inside of the sockets are lined with sharpened flutes that are also angled to dig further into the rusted nut or bolt as you turn the wrench. These are called '''''bolt extractor''''' sockets; they bite into rounded and rusty bolts and nuts, as the flutes are sharp and point counter clockwise. Think of what you would get if you made a mold of an extractor drill bit. See '''[[Removing stuck fasteners#Special tools|Special tools section]]'''. |
==Temperature differential== | ==Temperature differential== | ||
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#While it's still red-hot, squirt it with water. | #While it's still red-hot, squirt it with water. | ||
#Repeat the heating and cooling process again with the torch and water. | #Repeat the heating and cooling process again with the torch and water. | ||
| + | *When using the "Hot and cold" method be sure to follow proper safety procedures, specifically: | ||
| + | **Wear proper safety attire including welder's gloves and safety goggles. | ||
| + | **As with any time you use any flammable ignition sources, have a fire extinguisher within arm's reach. | ||
| + | If you use any type of penetrating oils they should be removed thoroughly first, they tend not to let the water do its thing when the hot and cold method is used. Remember- heat, and '''then''' use the water. Do this several times. | ||
| − | + | Too much heat will destroy the temper of a fastener. Important fasteners like used on the suspension, steering and brake systems should be replaced if there is any question as to the condition. | |
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===Heat the nut method=== | ===Heat the nut method=== | ||
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===Some more info on welding on nuts.=== | ===Some more info on welding on nuts.=== | ||
| − | *A | + | *A TIG welder is the welder of choice. |
| − | *It is critical to put some penetration oil like Kroil (and not WD-40) on | + | *It is critical to put some penetration oil like Kroil (and not WD-40) on when it has cooled enough for the oil to not just boil off. This will draw oil into the threads. |
==Penetrating and lubricating oils== | ==Penetrating and lubricating oils== | ||
[[File:Pb blastergallon.jpg|thumb|left|444px|PB Blaster penetrant, also available in aerosol cans]] [[File:W-d 40.jpg]]<br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:Pb blastergallon.jpg|thumb|left|444px|PB Blaster penetrant, also available in aerosol cans]] [[File:W-d 40.jpg]]<br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| − | Penetrating oil is | + | Penetrating oil is a low-viscosity oil that can penetrate into the area between threads on fasteners. A stuck fastener is sometimes repeatedly heated, sprayed with penetrating oil, and then tapped with a hammer. |
If heating or hammering is not possible the penetration can be improved by first spraying brake cleaner on the stuck fastener and following with the penetrating spray before the brake cleaner has evaporated. The solvent penetrates better than oil and will pull some oil with it. | If heating or hammering is not possible the penetration can be improved by first spraying brake cleaner on the stuck fastener and following with the penetrating spray before the brake cleaner has evaporated. The solvent penetrates better than oil and will pull some oil with it. | ||
| − | A decent penetrant is "Liquid Wrench". Another that is always at the top of the list is PB Blaster"- it has surprised many users with how well it works. Note that when trying to loosen rusty parts, it's important to first remove as much of the rust as possible with a wire brush. Once it's as clean as a wire brush will get it, apply Liquid Wrench, then give the piece repeated light taps with a hammer for ten or fifteen seconds; this helps work the penetrant into the crevices. Wait two minutes, then repeat the Liquid Wrench/tapping procedure. After repeating the procedure 3 or 4 times, | + | A decent penetrant is "Liquid Wrench". Another that is always at the top of the list is PB Blaster"- it has surprised many users with how well it works. Note that when trying to loosen rusty parts, it's important to first remove as much of the rust as possible with a wire brush. Once it's as clean as a wire brush will get it, apply Liquid Wrench, then give the piece repeated light taps with a hammer for ten or fifteen seconds; this helps work the penetrant into the crevices. Wait two minutes, then repeat the Liquid Wrench/tapping procedure. After repeating the procedure 3 or 4 times, ''then'' try to loosen it with one swift blow. Sometimes it won't work, but the majority of the time, your patience will allow you to not only remove the rusted nuts and bolts, but to possibly even reuse them. |
A longer soak time is better than a shorter soak time, with repeated reapplications if possible. | A longer soak time is better than a shorter soak time, with repeated reapplications if possible. | ||
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**[http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05330&S=Y Ultra Screwloose] | **[http://www.crcindustries.com/auto/content/prod_detail.aspx?PN=05330&S=Y Ultra Screwloose] | ||
*Diesel fuel | *Diesel fuel | ||
| + | *[https: //www.lawsonproducts .com/Drummond/Open-and-Shut-Nut-and-Bolt-Loosener-and-Rust-Penetrant/DA6152.lp Drummond Open and Shut]<ref>https: //www.hotrodders .com/forum/best-penetrating-lubricant-147009.html#post1033340</ref> | ||
| + | *[https: //www.lawsonproducts .com/Drummond/Open-and-Shut-NutBolt-LoosenerRust-Penetrant/DA7671.lp Drummond Open and Shut]<ref>https: //www.hotrodders .com/forum/best-penetrating-lubricant-147009.html#post1033340</ref> | ||
*[http://www.lubecorp.com/products/excel_440_super_lubricant.html Excel 440 Super Lubricant] | *[http://www.lubecorp.com/products/excel_440_super_lubricant.html Excel 440 Super Lubricant] | ||
*[http://www.bilthamber.com/ferrosol.html Ferrosol] | *[http://www.bilthamber.com/ferrosol.html Ferrosol] | ||
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*Paraffin wax | *Paraffin wax | ||
*[http://pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1 PB Blaster] | *[http://pbblaster.com/store/moreinfo.cfm?Product_ID=1 PB Blaster] | ||
| + | *[http://www.plusgas.co.uk/ PlusGas] | ||
*[http://www.ronsonstore.com/multilube.aspx Ronson Multi-Lube] | *[http://www.ronsonstore.com/multilube.aspx Ronson Multi-Lube] | ||
*[http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/190_Penetro.html Schaeffer Penetro 90] | *[http://www.schaefferoil.com/specialty/190_Penetro.html Schaeffer Penetro 90] | ||
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==Corrosion removers== | ==Corrosion removers== | ||
Removing corrosion from metal fasteners can help in their removal. When the iron in steel converts to iron oxide, or "rust", it swells, which can cause parts to seize in place. Rust can also distort the head of a fastener hampering efforts to securely grip the head with tools. | Removing corrosion from metal fasteners can help in their removal. When the iron in steel converts to iron oxide, or "rust", it swells, which can cause parts to seize in place. Rust can also distort the head of a fastener hampering efforts to securely grip the head with tools. | ||
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Corrosion Removers work in various ways depending on their chemistry. Some require parts to be soaked, others can be sprayed on applied as a gel. | Corrosion Removers work in various ways depending on their chemistry. Some require parts to be soaked, others can be sprayed on applied as a gel. | ||
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Methods of corrosion removal include: | Methods of corrosion removal include: | ||
*Mild household acids - typically require a multi-hour soak | *Mild household acids - typically require a multi-hour soak | ||
**Vinegar (Acetic Acid) | **Vinegar (Acetic Acid) | ||
**Citric Acid - Usually available in bulk crystal form. | **Citric Acid - Usually available in bulk crystal form. | ||
| − | *Commercial | + | *Commercial proprietary formulas |
**[http://www.evapo-rust.com/ Evapo Rust] Requires multi-hour soak | **[http://www.evapo-rust.com/ Evapo Rust] Requires multi-hour soak | ||
**[http://www.boeshield.com/ Boeshield Rust Free] Sprayed on. | **[http://www.boeshield.com/ Boeshield Rust Free] Sprayed on. | ||
*Electronic Rust Removal - Requires a bucket, sodium carbonate (washing soda), and a 12v battery charger. | *Electronic Rust Removal - Requires a bucket, sodium carbonate (washing soda), and a 12v battery charger. | ||
| − | **[http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/09/rust_removal_using_electr.html MAKE: Rust Removal | + | **[http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/09/rust_removal_using_electr.html MAKE: Rust Removal using electrolysis] |
**[http://www.ehow.com/way_5513137_electronic-rust-removal.html eHow: Electronic Rust Removal] | **[http://www.ehow.com/way_5513137_electronic-rust-removal.html eHow: Electronic Rust Removal] | ||
==Special tools== | ==Special tools== | ||
| − | + | *A pneumatic or electric impact wrench can loosen most any fastener, given enough tool capacity and psi. But that is not always going to be on hand. The following are some ideas that may work: | |
*Flameless heat tool useful for removing rusted or broken fasteners: [http://www.theinductor.com/ The Inductor]. | *Flameless heat tool useful for removing rusted or broken fasteners: [http://www.theinductor.com/ The Inductor]. | ||
*Left-handed drill bits, or screw extractors, can be used to remove many fasteners. | *Left-handed drill bits, or screw extractors, can be used to remove many fasteners. | ||
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*Hotrodders forum thread on the [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/does-work-grabit-seen-tv-155731.html "GrabIt"] extractor tool, as seen on a late-night infomercial. | *Hotrodders forum thread on the [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/does-work-grabit-seen-tv-155731.html "GrabIt"] extractor tool, as seen on a late-night infomercial. | ||
[[File:Sockets 003.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Damaged or frozen fastener removal sockets]]<br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:Sockets 003.jpg|thumb|left|300px|Damaged or frozen fastener removal sockets]]<br style="clear:both"/> | ||
| + | *A rubber band placed between a stripped screwhead and a screwdriver can help get enough grip on the remaining metal. | ||
| + | *If you're removing the remains of a broken zerk fitting/grease nipple, then a cheap Philips head screwdriver can be hammered in sufficiently to grip the hollow barrel and unscrew like normal. | ||
===Instructions for making an impact-type screw removal tool=== | ===Instructions for making an impact-type screw removal tool=== | ||
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*For removing stubborn Phillips-head screws, wet the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit, a little bit of spit will do, and dip the bit into some valve grinding compound or abrasive cleanser like Comet or Ajax. Use enough to cover the tip of the screwdriver. The abrasive gives the tip of the screwdriver a little added "bite" and it's less likely to slip out of the screw. | *For removing stubborn Phillips-head screws, wet the tip of the screwdriver or screwdriver bit, a little bit of spit will do, and dip the bit into some valve grinding compound or abrasive cleanser like Comet or Ajax. Use enough to cover the tip of the screwdriver. The abrasive gives the tip of the screwdriver a little added "bite" and it's less likely to slip out of the screw. | ||
*If you break off the head of the bolt, grind the remainder out with care using a TrueBite carbide bit and a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel MotoTool or similar). See [http://www.truebite.com/remove/ Removing Broken Bolts And Studs] for details and instructions. | *If you break off the head of the bolt, grind the remainder out with care using a TrueBite carbide bit and a high-speed rotary tool (Dremel MotoTool or similar). See [http://www.truebite.com/remove/ Removing Broken Bolts And Studs] for details and instructions. | ||
| − | *With heating, bear in mind axles and other important structures may lose their strength if they are | + | *With heating, bear in mind axles and other important structures may lose their strength if they are overheated and seals can be melted or degraded to the point of being useless. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke, then you are in the 300-plus degree range. |
*When taking off cylinder head studs or bolts, look where it passes into the head. If you see erosion into the fastener at the block surface, odds increase that the stud or bolt will break on removal. | *When taking off cylinder head studs or bolts, look where it passes into the head. If you see erosion into the fastener at the block surface, odds increase that the stud or bolt will break on removal. | ||
| − | *Whatever system you use, once you have a hold of the | + | *Whatever system you use, once you have a hold of the fastener, try rocking it forward and reverse a little at a time. If you can get it to move, it is more likely to come out. An older mechanic said always try to tighten a little before you loosen. Remember, if it moves, you are half way home. |
*Use the largest cobalt drill bit (that just covers the ID of the nut) to drill through the nut- parallel to the bolt- then used a chisel to turn/peel the nut off of the bolt. | *Use the largest cobalt drill bit (that just covers the ID of the nut) to drill through the nut- parallel to the bolt- then used a chisel to turn/peel the nut off of the bolt. | ||
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