Working with chromed bolts
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| − | When working with chromed bolts always use some white lithium grease on the threads to keep them from locking up when tightening | + | When working with chromed bolts always use some white lithium grease on the threads to keep them from locking up or binding when tightening. It's a good idea to use a bit of masking tape on the wrench or socket to keep the finish scratch free. Just tear a small piece and put it either on the bolt or on the inside of the wrench or socket itself. |
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| + | Along that same line, putting a piece of plastic such as part of a zip lock bag on a newly painted bolt head may help save it from damage. | ||
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| + | Just a note of caution here, before choosing chromed hardware for your rod you should read up on hydrogen embrittlement. When using an electrolytic plating process, free hydrogen atoms are introduced into the parent metal. If the part is not baked shortly after being plated, these hydrogen atoms can lead to weakening and possible failure of the part. The plater has to be well versed in the proper techniques for plating any suspension or other critical-duty parts. Unknown chromed parts should be avoided in these areas. Chroming without using proper procedures won't make a lot of difference on an oil pan, but it could mean the difference between life and death on a suspension fastener. | ||
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| + | A note to those who are considering chroming your existing bolts: I worked in an antique restoration shop and we encountered some old cars whose bolts and nuts were chromed and were practically impossible to tighten and loosen properly because of the very tiny size increase presented by the addition of the chrome. It drove us nuts, we tried every kind of wrench; SAE, Whitworth, Metric, British Standard, you name it. Usually the only solution was to grind and modify existing wrenches to fit. Keep that in mind before you start your project. | ||
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| + | [[Category:Fasteners]] | ||
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