Starter motors
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(Add text from Noisy/grinding GM starter fixes page, clean up) |
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First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | First, the 12-3/4" 153 tooth flywheel uses a starter with the bolt holes across from each other, 90 degrees to the crankshaft. The larger 14" 168 tooth flywheel uses a starter w/the holes offset diagonally from one another (see drawing below). | ||
| − | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. | + | Blocks from about 1962-up are drilled with three holes for either starter. The only two engines that may may not have the mounting holes to use either starter (other than the early blocks that used a bellhousing mounted starter) are the 200/229 ci 90 degree V6 Chevy and the SBC 400. The 229 V6 may have only the side by side bolt holes and not enough "meat" to drill the offset hole. The SBC 400 may have only the offset holes - this includes the 1996-2014 4.3L since the cast aluminum oil pan does not have enough room for use with a 153 tooth starter motor. It can be drilled for the other missing hole- but this needs to be carefully done for obvious reasons. |
==Starter noses== | ==Starter noses== | ||
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{| | {| | ||
| − | |[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb| | + | |[[File:153 vs168starter.jpg|thumb|245px|153 tooth starter "straight across" bolt pattern left, 168 tooth "staggered" bolt pattern starter right]] |
| + | |[[File:Block starter pad.jpg|thumb|400px|Block mounted starter holes: '''''both''''' use the blue circled hole; staggered starter uses the black circled hole]] | ||
| + | |[[File:Iron left al right starter nose.jpg|thumb|330px|Cast iron nose left, aluminum nose right. Note the difference in the depth of the two noses; only the cast iron nose can be used with a manual tranny bellhousing]] | ||
|} | |} | ||
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===Nose bolt hole sizes=== | ===Nose bolt hole sizes=== | ||
There are also two different OEM starter nose bolt hole sizes available. The holes in the nose where the bolts go are designed to fit either 3/8" bolts or metric bolts. 3/8" equates to approximately 9.5mm. If 3/8 bolts are used on a starter designed to use 10mm bolts, there will be extra play between the bolt and the bolt holes of the starter nose. This can allow the starter to move relative to the ring gear, causing the starter to grind along with causing wear to the starter gear and the flexplate/flywheel ring gear. Over time the wear (or movement if the amount of movement is great enough) can result in the starter gear no longer being able to engage the ring gear and the result is an engine that cannot be started. | There are also two different OEM starter nose bolt hole sizes available. The holes in the nose where the bolts go are designed to fit either 3/8" bolts or metric bolts. 3/8" equates to approximately 9.5mm. If 3/8 bolts are used on a starter designed to use 10mm bolts, there will be extra play between the bolt and the bolt holes of the starter nose. This can allow the starter to move relative to the ring gear, causing the starter to grind along with causing wear to the starter gear and the flexplate/flywheel ring gear. Over time the wear (or movement if the amount of movement is great enough) can result in the starter gear no longer being able to engage the ring gear and the result is an engine that cannot be started. | ||
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==What to do if the block is broken== | ==What to do if the block is broken== | ||
| − | There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68. | + | There is a fix for engine blocks that have unrepairable cracks or breaks where the starter mounts to the block. Shown below is an adaptor plate and spacer that can be used to mount the early type bellhousing mounted starter to a later block. It can save a block that would be otherwise either junk or requiring expensive and time consuming welding to fix. Ecklers (possibly others as well) also sells an adaptor plate similar to the one shown under p/n 19-68. This can also be used on the SBC 265 block that has no provision for a block mounted starter. |
{| | {| | ||
|[[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]] | |[[File:Starter adaptor plate.jpg|thumb|300px|left|Adaptor (Danchuck p/n 10100) used to mount a bellhousing-mounted starter on a block-mounted starter block]] | ||
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==Starter brace== | ==Starter brace== | ||
{| | {| | ||
| − | |[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace]] | + | |[[File:Sbc starter brace.jpg|thumb|330px|left|SBC starter brace (BBC similar)]] |
|[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]] | |[[File:Starter brace install.jpg|thumb|330px|left|Brace attaches to studded through bolt on starter and is bolted to the block]] | ||
|} | |} | ||
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A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing. | A brace like was originally used by the factory is needed to prevent the starter from flexing in use. The brace also saves the nose from being cracked or broken if the starter kicks back from over advanced ignition timing. | ||
| − | The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block | + | The brace connects to the end of the starter opposite of the nose, using the studded through bolt to attach the slotted end of the brace to the starter. The other end of the brace attaches directly to a threaded boss on the engine block, just below where the block and head decks meet. |
==Fasteners== | ==Fasteners== | ||
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===Adjustment=== | ===Adjustment=== | ||
| + | A noisy starter may be because the gears are meshing too close. The use of shims reduces the noise by increasing the distance between the gears. | ||
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When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | When using shims you need to have 1/8" clearance, a 1/8" drill bit or allen wrench works well for this. | ||
| − | A | + | |
| + | A page on how and why to use shims is [[Media:Delco_remy_starter_shim_bulletin_tbstr01-2.pdf|'''here''']]. | ||
==GM starter solenoid== | ==GM starter solenoid== | ||
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===Battery terminals=== | ===Battery terminals=== | ||
| − | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|Clamp-on | + | [[File:Bad batt clamp term.jpg|thumb|220px|left|]] Clamp-on style battery cable terminals have received a bad reputation simply due to the fact that they have been used incorrectly. A typical installation would involve trimming back the insulation on the battery cable, putting in under the clamp and tightening the bolts. Then the terminal would be placed on the battery post and in most cases, it will not fit correctly. |
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| + | The correct way to use these terminals is actually rather easy but it does require some tools, materials and skills. You will need to verify that the battery cable can be trimmed back a minimal of an inch and still make the connection to the battery without stressing the cable due to it being too short. You want to remove at least an inch of the cable to expose a section of the cable that has not been exposed to any corrosion. With cable length trimmed, you now will trim a 1/2" section of the insulation away from the cable exposing the wire. Next is taking a soldering iron or gun along with the correct solder (non-acid type) and applying a small amount of solder to the exposed cable end. You should end up with a shiny look to the soldering operation. At this point, you will need to verify the fit of the terminal on the battery post, in most cases you will find that the terminal will not fit all the way down on to the terminal. A battery post reamer tool is a quick and easy way to open up the inside of the terminal. With the clinch bolt loose, you want the terminal to slide all the way down on the post and make full contact. Once this has been done, you can now connect the cable to the terminal, tighten the bolts snug and then tighten the clamp bolt. You now have a battery terminal connection that is done correctly. | ||
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===Grounds=== | ===Grounds=== | ||
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*Block to firewall/chassis sheet metal | *Block to firewall/chassis sheet metal | ||
With this arrangement you are almost guaranteed a good ground, even if one fails. Keep in mind that the engine block is attached to rubber mounts. Some people will bolt the "battery to block" right to the starter bolt. | With this arrangement you are almost guaranteed a good ground, even if one fails. Keep in mind that the engine block is attached to rubber mounts. Some people will bolt the "battery to block" right to the starter bolt. | ||
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| + | ==Removing a starter== | ||
| + | ===General precautions on removing a starter=== | ||
| + | Prior to beginning work on the starter or any electrical system on an automobile, the battery cables should be disconnected. | ||
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| + | Starters are heavy and can easily cause injury if they were to fall on you. Make sure that the starter is supported before removing the bolts and do not lie directly beneath it. | ||
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| + | ===Per vehicle=== | ||
| + | ===1990-199? Chevy Blazer, S10, Bravada, ect. with 4.3L V6 engine=== | ||
| + | |||
| + | ====Tools needed:==== | ||
| + | *8mm wrench | ||
| + | *3/8" drive sockets: 8mm or 5/16", 13mm, 14mm, 15mm; 1/4" drive socket: 11mm deep | ||
| + | *Extensions | ||
| + | *1/4" and 3/8" drive ratchet. If bolts are tight, use breaker bar. | ||
| + | *Jack and jackstands | ||
| + | *Lug wrench or 3/4" socket with 1/2" drive breaker bar | ||
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| + | ===Instructions:=== | ||
| + | #Remove the negative battery cable (use 8mm socket or wrench and jack up the truck/SUV). | ||
| + | #Remove wheel and disconnect battery cable and "S" terminal with 13mm and 8mm sockets. The "S" terminal nut is easy to remove using a fine tooth ratchet. | ||
| + | #Remove and support the starter. For better access, remove the torque converter cover (4 bolts) and the transmission cooler line which is bolted to the engine oil pan. Use an 11mm socket. | ||
| + | #Remove the starter and install the rebuilt/new starter. Replace everything you removed to get to the starter. | ||
==Resources== | ==Resources== | ||
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[[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | [[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | ||
[[Category:Troubleshooting]] | [[Category:Troubleshooting]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Undeveloped Electrical articles]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Undeveloped Engine articles]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Undeveloped Troubleshooting articles]] | ||
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