Hi-torque starter
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==Introduction== | ==Introduction== | ||
"Hi-torque" starters can mean a starter made with a gear reduction to add mechanical advantage, or it can mean a starter wound with an armature that delivers more torque than a "standard" starter. | "Hi-torque" starters can mean a starter made with a gear reduction to add mechanical advantage, or it can mean a starter wound with an armature that delivers more torque than a "standard" starter. | ||
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High torque starters are generally used on high performance engines. They are better at cranking over a high compression engine. They are usually less prone to heat soak. Most also have universal mounting so they can be used with different flywheel sizes, and they may have a feature that allows the solenoid to be "clocked" into a position that gives the best clearance. | High torque starters are generally used on high performance engines. They are better at cranking over a high compression engine. They are usually less prone to heat soak. Most also have universal mounting so they can be used with different flywheel sizes, and they may have a feature that allows the solenoid to be "clocked" into a position that gives the best clearance. | ||
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| + | High Torque Starter Repairs | ||
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| + | Most aftermarket high torque starters are originally Japanese manufactured. While China has copied these and supplies a number of starter "sellers" with their own name branded units, in general the starters all feature the same basic construction. | ||
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| + | Most of the failures related to these starters involves damage to the pinion gear. Replacement pinion gears can be obtained and the starter disassembled, the gear replaced, the starter reassembled and placed back in service. Most starters will have the 9 tooth pinion gear although a few will have 14 tooth pinions. | ||
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| + | Replacement of the Pinion Gear: | ||
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| + | *With the starter on the bench, first use a paint marker to provide alignment marks on the main motor housing and the gear housing. | ||
| + | *Remove the three bolts holding the starter to the aluminum mounting block. For ease of re-installation, marking the clocking of the starter motor is suggested. | ||
| + | *Remove the two bolts holding the solenoid in place. | ||
| + | *Remove the two long bolts from the starter motor, keeping the brush holder in place set it to the side. | ||
| + | *Remove the rubber insulation piece and the solenoid actuator making note of its orientation. | ||
| + | *Using a small metal drift and small hammer (plastic or rubber) apply a few taps to the backside of the pinion gear - it should come out easily. | ||
| + | *The pinion gear is held in place with a round clip that is held in place by a small metal casing. A couple of short taps with a metal drift should move the metal casing downward on the pinion shaft. | ||
| + | *Remove the round clip and slide the old pinion gear out. | ||
| + | *Apply a small amount of grease to the pinion shaft and slide it in place. | ||
| + | *Replace the round clip and using a set of pliers, squeeze it tightly together. | ||
| + | *The small metal casing should go back over the round clip, however I have found that it is not critical that it does as the round clip cannot dislodge once the pinion is placed back in the housing. | ||
| + | *Place the pinion gear assembly back in the housing and using a plastic/rubber hammer, a few taps will seat it properly. | ||
| + | *At this point the starter can be reassembled in the reverse order of the disassembly. | ||
| + | *Pay close attention to the orientation of the solenoid actuator as it must go back in the proper way. | ||
[[Category:Electrical]] | [[Category:Electrical]] | ||
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[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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