How to rebuild an engine
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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==Requirements== | ==Requirements== | ||
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You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | ||
| − | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench | + | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench and a cam bearing installing tool (or have the machine shop install the cam bearings). Also, you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner (a piece of a broken ring can be carefully used for this), a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. If cylinder head work is going to be done, a spring compressor will be needed. |
Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines. | Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines. | ||
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===Purchasing tools=== | ===Purchasing tools=== | ||
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A lot of rodders prefer their horsepower coming from big displacement high output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost considerably more than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and MOPAR. | A lot of rodders prefer their horsepower coming from big displacement high output engines. If this sounds like you, your engine rebuild might cost considerably more than a stock engine rebuild/hop-up. The most popular route for wild engines include the big three domestic car producers: GM, Ford, and MOPAR. | ||
| − | The 454 BBC is often considered the ultimate ''readily available'' hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi, Chevy W-motor, Pontiac, AMC and the Boss 429 Ford have all had a resurgence since Edelbrock (and in some cases other manufacturers) have made | + | The 454 BBC is often considered the ultimate ''readily available'' hot rod powerplant. However, over time the Chrysler Hemi, Chevy W-motor, Pontiac, AMC and the Boss 429 Ford have all had a resurgence since Edelbrock (and in some cases other manufacturers) have made aluminum cylinder heads and in some cases new aftermarket blocks available, as well as all the other necessary parts and pieces. |
==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ==Locating an engine to rebuild== | ||
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Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and possible reuse. | Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and possible reuse. | ||
| − | Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of | + | Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of their location. |
Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | ||
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Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more. | Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more. | ||
| − | Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a | + | Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a vibratory etcher. If you use a center punch or numbebered punch set, use a light touch so as to not distort anything. |
Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods. | Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods. | ||
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2. You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are: | 2. You might want to research using special lifters or treatments that help prevent cam lobe/lifter failure. Some options are: | ||
*Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. | *Hard-faced lifters with a stellite face on the lifter crown that will resist scuffing. | ||
| − | *Comp Cams has an optional nitriding process that can be applied to any of their cams | + | *Comp Cams has an optional nitriding process that can be applied to any of their cams for around $100 over he cost of the cam. |
*[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM Composite lifters], ~$700/set. | *[http://www.4secondsflat.com/Composite%20lifters.htm SM Composite lifters], ~$700/set. | ||
*[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM Tool Steel lifters], ~$485-$625. | *[http://www.4secondsflat.com/SM%20Tool%20Steel%20Lifters.htm SM Tool Steel lifters], ~$485-$625. | ||
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9. Pre-oil the motor with a drill motor and oil pump primer tool such as [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/23640/10002/-1?parentProductId=754806 this one from Jegs]. Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming. | 9. Pre-oil the motor with a drill motor and oil pump primer tool such as [http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/23640/10002/-1?parentProductId=754806 this one from Jegs]. Put a socket on the harmonic damper retaining bolt and rotate the motor through at least 2 full revolutions while priming. | ||
| − | 10. At the end of | + | 10. At the end of the cam/lifter break-in period, change the oil and filter. <br> |
| + | {{Note1}}For more info on engine break in, see the links at the beginning of this section. | ||
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| + | ==Compression ratio calculators== | ||
| + | *[http://www.wheelspin.net/calc/calc2.html Static compression ratio] | ||
| + | *[http://www.wallaceracing.com/dynamic-cr.php Wallace Racing DCR calculator] | ||
| + | *[http://www.empirenet.com/pkelley2/DynamicCR.html Kelly DCR calculator] | ||
| + | *[http://www.uempistons.com/calc.php?action=comp2 KB/Silvolite DCR calculator] | ||
| + | *[http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/comprAdvHD.htm RSR DCR calculator] | ||
| + | {{Note1}} Some dynamic compression rtatio calculators (like KBs) ask for an additional 15 degrees of duration be added to the IVC @ 0.050" lift point figure. This works OK on older, slower ramped cam lobes, but the faster lobe profiles may need to have 25 degrees or more added to be accurate. | ||
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| + | {{Note1}}If the intake valve closing (IVC) point isn't known, it can be calculated: | ||
| + | # Divide the intake duration by 2 | ||
| + | # Add the results to the lobe separation angle (LSA) | ||
| + | # Subtract any ground-in advance | ||
| + | # Subtract 180 | ||
| + | This result does not need to have any amount added to the IVC point, like the KB calculator calls for. | ||
==Related resources== | ==Related resources== | ||
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