Header design
From Crankshaft Coalition Wiki
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| − | To some, a header is just a bunch of tubes that connect the exhaust port to the rest of the exhaust system. To the more mechanically curious, it is a system of tuned length and diameter tubes connecting to a device | + | {{youcanedit}} |
| + | ==Introduction== | ||
| + | To some, a header is just a bunch of tubes that connect the exhaust port to the rest of the exhaust system. To the more mechanically curious, it is a system of tuned length and diameter tubes connecting to a device which amplifies and optimizes the wavelength of the exhaust, effectively sucking burnt gases out of the engine's cylinders. | ||
| − | In the street rod world, absolute mechanical efficiency often takes a back seat to appearance, clearance issues and ease of installation. However, most of us overlook the benefits of a properly designed and built header and how it can improve | + | In the street rod world, absolute mechanical efficiency often takes a back seat to appearance, clearance issues, and ease of installation. However, most of us overlook the benefits of a properly designed and built header and how it can improve drivability, power output and fuel economy. If you are building headers or modifying existing headers, why not try to keep the physical operation of a header in mind while working on it? |
| − | + | ==Collector size== | |
| + | ===Argument for smaller collectors=== | ||
| + | Ever see a car header with 1 5/8" primaries that had a 2 1/2" collector? Hooker makes them for trucks, but you don't see them for cars. But that is the optimum diameter for many street headers. Run that right into a 2 1/2" exhaust and you have a sweet system with lots of torque where you need it, and better fuel economy to boot. The collector should have a smooth, gentle shape from the four tube area down to the final diameter to keep things moving smoothly. | ||
| − | + | If you have very healthy big block, are running a blower, turbo, or nitrous, a 3" header may be appropriate. However, about the only street application of the monster 3" diameter pipe is when you count on having an engine with a lot of top-end power. Otherwise, velocity is king in exhaust and 3" is probably too big to keep the speed of the gases up in the exhaust, and there goes that bottom end torque again! Many recommend either 2-1/4" or 2-1/2" diameter pipe for street V-8's. | |
| − | + | ===Argument for larger collectors=== | |
| + | A larger-than-needed exhaust system won't necessarily "kill" your low end torque. Any engine that makes respectable low end power will continue to make low end power regardless of a sewer pipe sized exhaust. SOME power may be lost, yes. Usually not enough to make a difference on MOST V8 engines that are even close to being tuned right. Even a stock big block can make complete use of a 3" single exhaust system. Some even come with that size STOCK. | ||
| − | + | The majority of torque "lost" from the bottom end of the power band has actually been moved upwards in the powerband, into the midrange. This can help performance during highway driving and towing, and may provide better passing power when needed. A more powerful midrange tends to make the low end seem less powerful, simply because the engine pulls better in a different part of the RPM range. Most people that think they lost low end power are simply noticing that the engine pulls better in a different way, even if NO low end power was ever lost. | |
| − | + | ==180 degree exhaust system== | |
| + | One thing that has not been discussed is the unequal firing order from one bank to the other. One college research paper on a Jaguar racing engine having a 105% volumetric efficiency, the torque peaks vs rpm looked like the Grand Tetons. | ||
| − | + | The 1963 Ford Indy engine had the "bundle of snakes" exhaust system on the top with pipes crossing over to have 4 equally spaced exhaust charges in each exhaust header, some race car headers had pipes crossing under the trans to get equal charging in each header. This system is called a 180 degree exhaust. It has some advantages in racing situations, but for the most part it's a very difficult and costly system to manufacture, package and install/service in a production vehicle. | |
| − | + | ==Gaskets== | |
| + | There are many different types and sizes of header gaskets on the market today. Composite are common, as is fiber types. The composite gaskets seem to hold up a little better, all else being equal, but the main thing is to retighten the header bolts often- like every time the engine is heat cycled- until the fasteners take a set. | ||
| − | + | [[File:Foil exh gasket sbc1.jpg]] | |
| − | + | {{!}}Remember- keeping the bolts tight is very important to keeping the gaskets from burning out. | |
| − | the | + | For the SBC and any other engine that uses these gaskets as a stock replacement: If/when the gaskets take a dump, try a set of the foil backed composite gaskets that come in most rebuild gasket sets. If they'll fit the head and header ports, they will work as good as most any more expensive composite gasket if the bolts are kept tight. |
| − | + | Regardless of what gasket that is used, trim the ID to fit the largest port, be it the header or the head port so there's no overhang into the port. After trimming, start all the bolts and just drop the gaskets into place. Other header gaskets can have the bolt holes slotted in the same way as the foil backed gaskets shown above, for easier installation. | |
| − | + | ==See also== | |
| + | *Wikipedia article on [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Manifold_%28automotive_engineering%29 exhaust manifolds] | ||
| + | *[[Headers]] | ||
| + | * http://www.wallaceracing.com/header_length.php | ||
| − | + | [[Category:Engine]] | |
| − | + | [[Category:Exhaust]] | |
| − | + | [[Category:Undeveloped articles]] | |
| − | + | [[Category:Undeveloped Engine articles]] | |
| − | + | [[Category:Undeveloped Exhaust articles]] | |
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