How to rebuild an engine

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==Requirements==
 
==Requirements==
  
 
===Tools===
 
===Tools===
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You will need common sense, a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps.
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You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps.
  
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You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench, [http://www.plastigaugeusa.com Plastigauge], and a cam bearing installing tool (or have the machine shop install the cam bearings). Also, you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner (a piece of a broken ring can be carefully used for this), a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. If cylinder head work is going to be done, a spring compressor will be needed.
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You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench and a cam bearing installing tool (or have the machine shop install the cam bearings). Also, you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner (a piece of a broken ring can be carefully used for this), a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. If cylinder head work is going to be done, a spring compressor will be needed.
  
 
Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines.
 
Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine or if this is going to become a routine thing. You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. An engine hoist is also a good addition if you plan on pulling and installing many engines.
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===Selecting tools===
 
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For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know:
 
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*Approximately how much do the tools cost?
 
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*Is it better to buy a cheap version of this tool, or should you spend money to buy a high-quality version of this tool?
 
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If you're starting a "project" or work on cars often it would be wise to spend the extra money on higher quality tools. Cornwell, SK, Starrett, Craftsman, MAC and Snap-On are commonly known to be the "best tools". Snap-On is a little better quality, but cost considerably more and can sometimes be a pain in the butt to exchange your broken tool since you would have to chase down one of their trucks. Craftsman is a good brand of tool too, and can be bought at almost any Sears department store as well as many K Mart stores since they connected with Sears ca. 2012. Look on the package when you buy hand tools; most have a lifetime warranty on them, even the cheapest ones.
 
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For the most part your basic hand tools and a few impact tools will do the majority of the work but as listed there are several specialty tools to consider purchasing or renting:
 
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*torque wrench
 
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*ring compressor (ring expander is a huge plus)
 
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*dial caliper or vernier caliper
 
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*degree wheel (explained below)
 
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*dial indicator and dial bore gauge
 
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Eventually it will come time to install your camshaft as well. If you are planning on doing this yourself, you will need a degree wheel. You can buy these alone, or in comprehensive kits from somewhere like Jegs, Summit, or maybe even a local shop. They go for around $200. Just the wheels themselves can be purchased for as low as $10.00. You will also need a dial indicator, as well as a magnetic stand for it. These can also be purchased at Jegs, Summit or even your local Harbor Freight store. The larger the diameter of the degree wheel, the easier it is to be accurate.
 
  
 
===Purchasing tools===
 
===Purchasing tools===
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Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more.  
 
Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before loosening the rod caps, use an engraving tool to ID the rods and caps with the cylinder number they go to. This is preferred to using a number set or center punch, but if done carefully this is still OK to do. Be sure to use only as much force as needed to get a legible number or marking and no more.  
  
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Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a viberatory etcher. If you use a center punch or numbebered punch set, use a light touch so as to not distort anything.
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Mark the caps in the same order as the firing order with a vibratory etcher. If you use a center punch or numbebered punch set, use a light touch so as to not distort anything.
  
 
Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods.  
 
Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston, then return the cap to that rod. Then remove the rest of the rods.  
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*[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Adjust_valves Adjust valves]
 
*[http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/Category:Adjust_valves Adjust valves]
 
*[[Engine inspection]]
 
*[[Engine inspection]]
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[[Category:Engine]]
 
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[[Category:Good articles]]
 
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Latest revision as of 07:28, 23 November 2024

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