Building a new shop
(→Specialty areas) |
(→Foundation and floor) |
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Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh and conduits should be tied to vertical staking to maintain proper heights. In-floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete. | Any electrical conduit should be under the mesh and conduits should be tied to vertical staking to maintain proper heights. In-floor heating lines should be laid in work zones and above the wire mesh. Header pipes should be staked as stated above and all joints in lines should be ABOVE the concrete. | ||
| − | Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of | + | Some people prefer a curb around the perimeter of the building, rather than a slab. The reason for the curb is that it will keep out moisture, insects, etc. When pouring floors, always have a rotating laser level on hand and double check levels as the pour and leveling goes on. Grade floor from corners to middle, and center of space to outdoor openings. Put a sump pit in large buildings to collect runoff water and use a gravity drain or pump out system to remove it. Increase floor thickness in areas where you are using a lift or have heavy shop equipment. |
I would add that if you are considering a car lift or heavy vehicles that you should plan on a slab thickness of at least 6" rather than 4". Tell the concrete installer that you want a "smooth' floor. Try sweeping rough concrete and then try smooth. You will never want rough again. | I would add that if you are considering a car lift or heavy vehicles that you should plan on a slab thickness of at least 6" rather than 4". Tell the concrete installer that you want a "smooth' floor. Try sweeping rough concrete and then try smooth. You will never want rough again. | ||
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