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| | ====Hydronic==== | | ====Hydronic==== |
| | *In-floor hydronic (must be left on nearly all the time, because they take a while to heat up) | | *In-floor hydronic (must be left on nearly all the time, because they take a while to heat up) |
| − | ====Out of the Box====
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| − | I have a Resnor overhead heater that I have mounted on a dolly with a flexible supply line. I have very large garage and I did not want to preheat the garage or even heat the entire garage. Obviously, the question of venting was considered.
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| − | Initially, I started by preheating the entire area and I intended to then let in fresh air and resort to localized electric heating. Preheating raises the temperature of the walls, equipment, cars so that a lower number of BTUs would be required. I installed a CO2 meter for obvious reasons but I found that it wasn't sounding any alarm ever. So I investigated.
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| − | I talked with the local building department's heating people and they said that if the combustion is good there will be no CO2.
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| − | So I bought a second CO2 meter to check the first and have been using an non-vented Resnor for years.
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| − | I also have a partial basement under a 16x30 foot stall. by placing the Resnor in this basement, I can heat the ceiling, which is the concrete floor of the stall and I have radiant heat which is quite comfortable and which is a heat sink or bank that maintains a remarkable comfort level.
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| − | Another thing you might consider is putting two inches of new concrete on your existing floor and lay down electric heating pads before the pour for a comfortable heating arrangement especially if you have no lift in your garage.
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| | ==Distance from paint== | | ==Distance from paint== |
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