Window removal and installation
(→Installing the new window) |
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For non-moving windows and windshields that are sealed in with butyl tape, you will need: | For non-moving windows and windshields that are sealed in with butyl tape, you will need: | ||
*"Bat wing tool" K-D #2038 molding removal tool | *"Bat wing tool" K-D #2038 molding removal tool | ||
| − | *Window wire, piano wire, or guitar strings ( | + | *Window wire, piano wire, or guitar strings (available as a kit with tools) |
*A good set of needle nose pliers and side cutters | *A good set of needle nose pliers and side cutters | ||
*Possibly a pneumatic window tool | *Possibly a pneumatic window tool | ||
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===Side window=== | ===Side window=== | ||
| − | On some vehicles the side | + | On some vehicles the side glass is bolted or clipped to the track assembly. On other vehicles there are rivets holding it in place. In either case, either remove bolts or clips or carefully drill out the rivets in order to remove a side window. Often the track assembly has an upper limiter which must be removed to allow removal of the side window. If you are working with an older vehicle and have no replacement glass to install, make a template out of masonite the same thickness as the glass. Bring your finished template into a glass shop and they will make you a replacement glass which you can install. Clean the window channel of all dirt and rust. Install new base tape and slowly work the glass into the channel. Keep the window vertical while tapping with an oak block and rubber mallet. Install new vertical channel tracks and replace the inner and outer weather strips for a sound-and-water-tight installation. |
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*Do not store lubricant in your tool box. Your friends will not believe you when you explain what it's for. | *Do not store lubricant in your tool box. Your friends will not believe you when you explain what it's for. | ||
| − | Sometimes when | + | Sometimes when pulling the rope the rubber does not pull inside the flange. The factory tool to pull the missed spot inside was made fron a std screwdriver. The flat portion was cut off then 1/4 inch ball was turned on the end. A 2 inch long taper was turned from the neck at the ball back towards the handle, then it was polished with fine sandpaper. The end was then heated and bent with about a 1 inch L leg. Use lube or a soap solution and work the ball end under the rubber and pull it out without tearing it. |
== Installing flush mounted glass == | == Installing flush mounted glass == | ||
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Have your glass cut so that you have about 1/4 gap between the edge of the glass and the windshield opening. No more than 17/64" and no less than 15/64" gap all around. Always trial fit the filler strip before you do the install to make sure it isn't too tight or loose. Too tight and the glass may crack or pop out during installation and too loose and you will have gaps. | Have your glass cut so that you have about 1/4 gap between the edge of the glass and the windshield opening. No more than 17/64" and no less than 15/64" gap all around. Always trial fit the filler strip before you do the install to make sure it isn't too tight or loose. Too tight and the glass may crack or pop out during installation and too loose and you will have gaps. | ||
| − | You can paint a uniform band around the edge of the glass with Dow betaprime 5500 pinchweld primer. This material will create a dark band around the edge of the glass similar to the baked on ceramic frit you see on most all of the newer cars. Mask off 1/2"to 3/4" uniformly around the edge so the glue line will look good from the outside. Mask off inside of the frit line so as to have a nice line to cut the setting adhesive to. Tape off the entire inside of the glass to | + | You can paint a uniform band around the edge of the glass with Dow betaprime 5500 pinchweld primer. This material will create a dark band around the edge of the glass similar to the baked-on ceramic frit you see on most all of the newer cars. Mask off 1/2"to 3/4" uniformly around the edge so the glue line will look good from the outside. Mask off inside of the frit line so as to have a nice line to cut the setting adhesive to. Tape off the entire inside of the glass to protect it from scratching and excess glue. |
| − | Position the glass so that it is flush with the body using at least 6 rubber setting blocks 1 in each corner and 2 in the middle | + | Position the glass so that it is flush with the body using at least 6 rubber setting blocks; 1 in each corner and 2 in the middle. You want the glass to sit evenly on these blocks. You can maintain your 1/4" gap with some scraps of filler-strip or wooden spacers, removing them as you install the strip. |
| − | Once the windshield is positioned | + | Once the windshield is positioned (Optional step): You can dry fit the filler-strip. You can make a butt joint in the middle of the strip at the bottom of the window. Try to not miter corners unless you absolutely have to because it is very hard to keep the edges down. The strip can be notched on the inside of a corner to make a tighter bend. Practice making corners on a scrap to see how it works. Once the strip has been dry fit you can install it permanently. When you install the filler strip use super weather strip adhesive on at least one side of the strip. Glue the ends with super glue. Once the filler strip is installed back fill the space behind the windshield with urethane adhesive, tool it so it looks nice and has no voids. You should have at least 3 full size tubes of adhesive ready for your install. Let it cure and you are done. |
That is a fairly simple set of instructions, there may be other things that need to be considered such as what to do about your dash and header panel, etc. Is the windshield 2 pieces? this may require a center seam. | That is a fairly simple set of instructions, there may be other things that need to be considered such as what to do about your dash and header panel, etc. Is the windshield 2 pieces? this may require a center seam. | ||
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