How to rebuild an engine

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Dis-assembly is usually broken down in to two ways. One is removal of external parts and accessories and the other is the actual disassemble of the engine block and its internal parts.

−

Step-by-step. Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work.

+

Step-by-step.

+

Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work.

+

Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts.

+

You will need a 4-wheel engine stand (3-wheel engine stands have a wicked tendency to tip easily). Using a 4- wheel engine stand is the safest and fastest way to dis-assemble an engine.

−

You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners. It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.

−

The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds. Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later. Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can. If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine.

+

You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners.

+

It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. If at all possible roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.

+

The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds.

+

Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later.

+

Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can.

+

If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine.

For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off. On Small Block Chevys (SBC), there is a spacer plate that needs to be removed also so you can take the fuel pump push rod out of the block. I put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners.

−

Dis-assembly of the engine starts with the removal of the valve covers. The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came. Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and re-use. Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location. Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to lever the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. Remove lifters from their bores by tilting the engine over and letting gravity assist you or use a hook to remove the hard ones. Pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. You did DRAIN THE OIL, DIDN'T YOU? Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod shells, take a number set and number the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. Un-do the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse, than tweaking a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and spray engine bores with WD40 to keep rust and contamination to a minimum.

+

Dis-assembly of the engine starts with the removal of the valve covers.

+

The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came.

+

Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and re-use.

+

Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location.

+

Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to lever the heads up off the block and dowel pins.

+

Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection.

+

Remove lifters from their bores by tilting the engine over and letting gravity assist you or use a hook to remove the hard ones. Pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. You did DRAIN THE OIL, DIDN'T YOU? Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod shells, take a number set and number the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. Un-do the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse, than tweaking a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and spray engine bores with WD40 to keep rust and contamination to a minimum.

Depending on your experience, take block and crank to the machine shop for mic'ing, or inspect and mic your engine using the specs contained in your manual. Reasonable care should be taken when moving the block and crank so that they do not become damaged in transportation. If moving them over a long distance it is better to put the crank back in the engine and bolt it in for the ride, also put the pan on for extra protection. Heads should be put in individual containers because of their weight.

How to rebuild an engine

Revision as of 15:15, 14 May 2010

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@@ Line 134: / Line 134: @@
 Dis-assembly is usually broken down in to two ways. One is removal of external parts and accessories and the other is the actual disassemble of the engine block and its internal parts.
-Step-by-step. Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work.
+Step-by-step.
+Everything you need to do to your engine prior to assessing it for machine work.
 Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts.
 You will need a 4-wheel engine stand (3-wheel engine stands have a wicked tendency to tip easily).  Using a 4- wheel engine stand is the safest and fastest way to dis-assemble an engine.
-You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies.  This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath.  A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners.  It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags.  Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands.  If at all possible roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles.  Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.
-The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds.  Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump.  Then take the distributor out.  I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag.  I can then clean this later.  Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body.  For the injectors I put them into plastic bags.  Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can.  If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also.  Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag.  I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things.  If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now.  At a later time you can put in new "O" rings.  You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine.
+You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not lose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies.  This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath.  A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners.
+It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags.  Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands.  If at all possible roll the engine to a place where you can clean/degrease it from top to bottom. The only thing worse than dropping a greasy iron head on your foot is trying to catch an engine tipping over on a 3-wheel engine stand. As a suggestion, revise to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles.  Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes.
+The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds.
+Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternator,power steering pump, and smog pump.  Then take the distributor out.  I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag.  I can then clean this later.
+Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body.  For the injectors I put them into plastic bags.  Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can.
+If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also.  Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag.  I do not like to keep the carburetor in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things.  If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now.  At a later time you can put in new "O" rings.  You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine.
 For an engine with a carburetor now is the time for the fuel pump to be taken off.  On Small Block Chevys (SBC), there is a spacer plate that needs to be removed also so you can take the fuel pump push rod out of the block.  I put this rod and the spacer plate in with the fasteners.
-Dis-assembly of the engine starts with the removal of the valve covers. The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came. Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and re-use. Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location. Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to lever the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. Remove lifters from their bores by tilting the engine over and letting gravity assist you or use a hook to remove the hard ones. Pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. You did DRAIN THE OIL, DIDN'T YOU? Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod.  Before un-doing the rod shells, take a number set and number the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. Un-do the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse, than tweaking a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and spray engine bores with WD40 to keep rust and contamination to a minimum.
+Dis-assembly of the engine starts with the removal of the valve covers.
+The rocker arms should then be removed and placed in number sequence so that they can easily be identified from where they came.
+Pushrods can be pulled and placed in a shallow pan for cleaning and re-use.
+Head bolts should be removed and inserted in a cardboard template to make note of there location.
+Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to lever the heads up off the block and dowel pins.
+Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection.
+Remove lifters from their bores by tilting the engine over and letting gravity assist you or use a hook to remove the hard ones. Pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. You did DRAIN THE OIL, DIDN'T YOU? Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod.  Before un-doing the rod shells, take a number set and number the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. Un-do the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse, than tweaking a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and spray engine bores with WD40 to keep rust and contamination to a minimum.
 Depending on your experience, take block and crank to the machine shop for mic'ing, or inspect and mic your engine using the specs contained in your manual. Reasonable care should be taken when moving the block and crank so that they do not become damaged in transportation. If moving them over a long distance it is better to put the crank back in the engine and bolt it in for the ride, also put the pan on for extra protection. Heads should be put in individual containers because of their weight.