Freeing a stuck engine
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#Keep the engine in a secure holding device. If it's the frame of the car or truck, that's good, but make sure that the motor mounts aren't going to rip off if we apply some torsional turning devices to the engine,i.e. 6 foot steel track bar. If the engine is loose, find a way to hold it down. Remember, the tensile strength of steel is greater than wood. And if one bolt is good, a half a dozen would be better. | #Keep the engine in a secure holding device. If it's the frame of the car or truck, that's good, but make sure that the motor mounts aren't going to rip off if we apply some torsional turning devices to the engine,i.e. 6 foot steel track bar. If the engine is loose, find a way to hold it down. Remember, the tensile strength of steel is greater than wood. And if one bolt is good, a half a dozen would be better. | ||
#Flood the engine block with the fluid of your choice. Turn it upside down and fill the block, and plug holes as necessary. This is just a pre-lube stage. | #Flood the engine block with the fluid of your choice. Turn it upside down and fill the block, and plug holes as necessary. This is just a pre-lube stage. | ||
| − | #Using an oak block and a dead blow hammer of your choice, SHOCK each piston with a few blows. Any piston which is the TDC or BDC position will not give you any mechanical advantage in rotating the assembly by hitting it. The initial strike is to just loosen the rings in the piston lands and break the rings free from the walls of the cylinder. Pistons that are in between TDC and BDC will provide the best opportunity to move within the bore. | + | #Using an oak block and a dead blow hammer of your choice, SHOCK each piston with a few blows. A air chisel with a flat bit and an oak block like the musroom end of an axe handle works good, remember you are just trying to loosen the rings NOT move the piston, just let the bit vibrate the oak block and piston. When the rings break free you will see your lube run past them into the block. Any piston which is the TDC or BDC position will not give you any mechanical advantage in rotating the assembly by hitting it. The initial strike is to just loosen the rings in the piston lands and break the rings free from the walls of the cylinder. Pistons that are in between TDC and BDC will provide the best opportunity to move within the bore. |
#There are two places in which you can apply rotational force. One is the crank pulley and the other is the flywheel. If the engine is in the frame of the vehicle, use the crank pulley. If it's out of the vehicle, use the flywheel. Iron pulleys and balancers will take more abuse than steel pulleys. Crank keys and keyways can shear with abnormal force. Be sure of the bolt grades before applying force. Remember there are two ways to turn an engine, use both of them (CW and CCW). | #There are two places in which you can apply rotational force. One is the crank pulley and the other is the flywheel. If the engine is in the frame of the vehicle, use the crank pulley. If it's out of the vehicle, use the flywheel. Iron pulleys and balancers will take more abuse than steel pulleys. Crank keys and keyways can shear with abnormal force. Be sure of the bolt grades before applying force. Remember there are two ways to turn an engine, use both of them (CW and CCW). | ||
#Don't forget to use horizontal force on the crankshaft. Tap the crankshaft at both ends with your dead blow hammer and oak block. Loosen off the rod bearings and tap with a bronze hammer to break the shell bearings loose. | #Don't forget to use horizontal force on the crankshaft. Tap the crankshaft at both ends with your dead blow hammer and oak block. Loosen off the rod bearings and tap with a bronze hammer to break the shell bearings loose. | ||
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