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| | [[Pressure Brake Bleeder Set Up]] | | [[Pressure Brake Bleeder Set Up]] |
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| − | Good post, if using manifold vacuum, do make sure you are using manifold vacuum at the sourcing port and not ported vacuum. Mechanics that don’t know the difference; probably shouldn’t be messing with this anyway. If you are using the manifold for bleeding the brakes, then this means the engine is running which is not always safe or efficient. This also means if the car is on the lift, you are moving the car up and down or using a ladder to access the car, which is just silly.
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| − | When flat stalling and doing the fronts and the car is on stands, and you open the door to start or pump the brakes etc…., you can tweak (bend) the frame. This is especially true on older Plymouths, and GM F-Bodies. I lost count of how many cars I have seen with binding drivers doors that were not caused by weak door pins or hinges, but by bent frame because of a failed previous repair.
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| − | To seal the jar easier if you make a jar as you described, use a mason jar. The lid removes, is easier to drill and seal the fittings and the top comes with a cast in gasket.
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| − | One of the biggest problem most mechanics make is forgetting to take the top off of the master cylinder. If you leave the lid locked down when you are trying to bleed..., the fluid won't flow. You don’t have to take the top all the way off, just open the top and loosely set it back down. This is also true of the cap style that screw off. Setting the top or tops back on the master loosely keeps dirt from getting in the fluid.
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| − | Another easy way to bleed is to use clear tube from the pet (fish) section of a discount store. The clear vinyl will snuggly fit over the tip of the bleeder, you can see the air bubbles, and use a horse syringe, 30 – 100 cc to draw out the fluid. These syringes do not have needles and are disposable. The pet section should also have the petcock valves designed to go into the clear vinyl, check back in the fish section. Its all cheap and disposable.
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| − | You can also remove a vacuum reservoir from a salvage car and use this reservoir as a portable source, use the clear tubing, and the petcock to open and close the line. You can then charge this with manifold vacuum, close the line and then shut off the engine before you start the repair of the brakes. This way you have portable vacuum without having to keep engine running.
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| − | Always bleed the brakes from the furthest point from master cylinder first. The master is typically on the driver side (left side) firewall so you would bleed in following order: Passenger (Right) Rear, then Driver (Left) Rear, Stop, come to the front, refill the Master, then bleed the Passenger (Right) Front and then the Driver Side (Left) Front. At conclusion check the fluid level, button up the tires, torque spec the lug nuts, remove the stands, drop the car, and then check pedal position, pedal travel and then test drive.
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| − | For rear drums you will need to reset the star adjuster prior to the road test, this is easy to do by driving in reverse and consistently lightly stabbing the brakes. This lets the star adjuster set the proper distance between the shoe facings and the drum.
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| − | I like using the hand vac because it has other uses in diagnosing other vacuum operated items, but I do use a jar like you mentioned. The "jar" that comes with the hand vac is too small and plastic and gets filty after constant use. Using a mason jar, I can save the top I made and get a new jar and locking ring when it gets too dirty, or breaks.
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| − | You mentioned possibly using Lithium to seal the threads…
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| − | DO NOT do this. The only thing (chemical) that should ever make contact with brake fluid is the same type of brake fluid. This is why the OEM uses the copper ring as a line gasket at the caliper and all other connection are flare or double flare fittings. If you are having sealing issues in the bleeder threads, this usually means the threads or the bleeder is dirty or partially plugged.
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| − | What you can do is get some fresh bleeder screws from the parts store and make pairs of these with the tubing already attached securely to use as fittings you keep with the bleeder setup you have. Most bleeders should be metric threads, all made prior to 1982 GM will be SAE, Ford and MOPAR is a toss-up as they purchased what was cheapest to get the car through the assembly line, but most cars after 1982 should now all be metric and there are only a few sizes of these.
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| − | I think NAPA has all these in their Balkamp or Weatherhead line. I used to rebuild all the calipers and wheel cylinders, but with prices today, I just buy the “Loaded Pair Calipers” for the front, and new wheel cylinder for the rears if they are drums or new calipers if they are rear disk, (some cars don’t have Loaded Pairs for the rear).
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| − | It is also a good idea to just keep a modest amount of new bleeders in your toolbox anyhow. Most mechanics hate comebacks and a leaky old bleeder can cause this as well as a car accident due to failed brakes. When a customer drops a few hundred for a good quality brake job, there is no reason to nickel and dime them on reusing the old bleeders. It’s the same reason you use fresh valve stems when you change tires.
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