Rebuild an alternator
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| − | ==Rebuild | + | ==Rebuild your alternator== |
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These days alternators are getting more and more costly (up to several hundred dollars depending on the application) while intermediate rebuild kits are very inexpensive and once you've done it, very simple to do. | These days alternators are getting more and more costly (up to several hundred dollars depending on the application) while intermediate rebuild kits are very inexpensive and once you've done it, very simple to do. | ||
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If you plan to rebuild your alternator, some easy steps to a DIY project are below. | If you plan to rebuild your alternator, some easy steps to a DIY project are below. | ||
| − | == Removal and | + | == Removal and clean up == |
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* Disconnect the vehicle battery. If you have a charger put it on charge during the rebuild. This will help to improve battery life and minimize the load on the fresh alternator after rebuilding. | * Disconnect the vehicle battery. If you have a charger put it on charge during the rebuild. This will help to improve battery life and minimize the load on the fresh alternator after rebuilding. | ||
*Remove the alternator from the car and clean it thoroughly. | *Remove the alternator from the car and clean it thoroughly. | ||
== Disassembly == | == Disassembly == | ||
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*Using a scribe, witness mark the case halves so you can get them indexed properly when you re-assemble it. It can go 3 or 4 different ways. | *Using a scribe, witness mark the case halves so you can get them indexed properly when you re-assemble it. It can go 3 or 4 different ways. | ||
*Remove the through bolts so you can separate or halve the cases. | *Remove the through bolts so you can separate or halve the cases. | ||
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*With a fine emery or crocus cloth, burnish the brush pickups or (slip rings) on the rotor assembly until smooth and shiny. Emery dust is conductive so clean up your work when done. | *With a fine emery or crocus cloth, burnish the brush pickups or (slip rings) on the rotor assembly until smooth and shiny. Emery dust is conductive so clean up your work when done. | ||
| − | == Installation and | + | == Installation and inspection == |
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* Install your new bearing, but before you do, get a SMALL sharp punch and carefully put a dimple in the race each 1/3 rd the way around. One may use a dab (small dab) of epoxy to accomplish locking the bearing race. This will prevent the race from spinning in the case. It will be a tiny bit harder to put the cases back together, you might have to tap the halves with a rubber mallet. | * Install your new bearing, but before you do, get a SMALL sharp punch and carefully put a dimple in the race each 1/3 rd the way around. One may use a dab (small dab) of epoxy to accomplish locking the bearing race. This will prevent the race from spinning in the case. It will be a tiny bit harder to put the cases back together, you might have to tap the halves with a rubber mallet. | ||
* Install the bushing (if applicable). Lubricate the bushing as required. | * Install the bushing (if applicable). Lubricate the bushing as required. | ||
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[[Image:image03.jpg]] | [[Image:image03.jpg]] | ||
| − | == Inspect the | + | == Inspect the hardware == |
If you notice white powder on the brackets or hardware, you have electrolysis going on (mounts are aluminum and hardware/engine is steel... what were they thinking??) Remove and media or water blast them. | If you notice white powder on the brackets or hardware, you have electrolysis going on (mounts are aluminum and hardware/engine is steel... what were they thinking??) Remove and media or water blast them. | ||
If you are a "stickler" install a copper braid strap from a good ground on the alternator to a good ground on the engine block. This will assure good electrical performance and eliminate mounting brackets from being important to the electrical ground path. | If you are a "stickler" install a copper braid strap from a good ground on the alternator to a good ground on the engine block. This will assure good electrical performance and eliminate mounting brackets from being important to the electrical ground path. | ||
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That should give you a much better unit than you can buy over the counter... that will probably out live the car. | That should give you a much better unit than you can buy over the counter... that will probably out live the car. | ||
| − | + | ==Mounting and rotation== | |
| + | An alternator will generate current in either direction. But what can hinder this is the alternator fan function. | ||
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| + | The alternator cooling fan is designed to pull air into the ''back'' of the alternator to cool the diodes/heat sink located there, then the air is exhausted out the front. Spinning the fan backwards will pull air (less efficiently) in the front and push it back through the alternator until it reaches the diodes/heat sink then exhausts out the back. So IF the fan is directional, it will be more efficient in one direction than the other. | ||
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| + | Whether or not the loss of the fan's efficiency is a matter for concern will depend on how hard the alternator is worked, and the underhood temperature and air flow around the alternator in the vehicle it's in now. | ||
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| + | In many cases there will not be an issue unless there are higher than normal temps under hood and/or the alternator duty cycle is extreme. But if this were to be a concern, the fan can be swapped for one that gives the correct air flow or one that's "bidirectional" can be used instead. A bi-fan will have basically straight blades radiating out and won't have any fan blade bias as to direction like a directional fan has. | ||
| + | ==Resources== | ||
| + | [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/GM_CS_144_alternator_repair_and_replacement GM CS 144 alternator repair and replacement] | ||
[[Category:Electrical]] | [[Category:Electrical]] | ||
[[Category:Engine]] | [[Category:Engine]] | ||
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