How to rebuild an engine
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You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | You will need a basic set of hand tools, such as a good variety of boxed end wrenches, ratchet and socket set, screwdriver set, and a gasket scraper. This basic set of tools will get you through the majority of the disassembly steps. | ||
| − | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench, [http://www.plastigaugeusa.com | + | You will need a few special tools when it comes time to build or reassemble the engine. A good torque wrench, [http://www.plastigaugeusa.com Plastigage], and a cam bearing installing tool (unless machine shop installs cam bearings). Also, you may need a ridge reamer, a ring groove cleaner, a ring expander, a ring trimmer, a ring compressor, and a good cylinder hone. If cylinder head work is going to be done, a spring compressor will be needed. |
Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s). You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. | Depending on how in-depth and involved you want to get with your rebuild(s) and how many engines you think you are going to rebuild, you may want to acquire some additional measuring equipment. Items such as a set of outside micrometers, an inside micrometer, vernier, dial or digital calipers and maybe a dial bore gauge can let you know precisely what your sizes are. A "snap gauge" set can be used for spring installed height, bore diameter, etc. Think of these tools as indispensable if you are planning to blueprint your engine(s). You will also need a decent engine stand. It will make your build easier to support the engine, keeping it from the ground, and also helps in tearing the engine down and keeping the engine clean at assembly time. | ||
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Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | Prying up with a pry bar in the intake ports to cause separation of the head from the block, watch for coolant spills. Use a wide blade screwdriver to leverage the heads up off the block and dowel pins. Remove the heads to a solid work bench for inspection. | ||
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| + | Before the cam can be removed, the damper and timing cover have to be removed. Use a puller to remove the damper and remove the oil pan before removing the timing cover to avoid bending it, if this is a SBC engine. | ||
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| + | The SBC engines from the factory sometimes had a nylon covered cam gear. This nylon couls- and did- come off wehen the gear wore out. The plastic pieces then fell into the oil pan to be suched up in the oil pump screen. This has caused many failures in the past. | ||
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| + | If you see a gear missing the plastic on ANY engine, you know the pan and pump need to be inspected and cleaned of any plastic. | ||
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| + | [[File:Nylon gear.jpg|thumb|400px|left|Stock SBC timing gear with missing nylon gears]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
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Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod caps, take a number set, engraver or center punch and number/ID the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. After marking the main caps for location if needed (some will be marked for position from the factory), undo the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, and with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse than damaging a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and coat the engine bores, etc. with ATF, etc. to keep rust to a minimum. | Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod caps, take a number set, engraver or center punch and number/ID the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. After marking the main caps for location if needed (some will be marked for position from the factory), undo the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, and with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse than damaging a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and coat the engine bores, etc. with ATF, etc. to keep rust to a minimum. | ||
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