Adjusting hydraulic lifters
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| − | [[File:Lifter | + | [[File:Hydraulic Lifter.jpg|thumb|200px|left|Generic hydraulic lifter]][[File:Schubeck hydraulic lifter made for zero lashing.jpg|border|150px|right]] |
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==Overview== | ==Overview== | ||
The following is information and instructions on how to successfully adjust the preload on '''''adjustable''''' hydraulic lifter valve trains. For '''non adjustable''' valve trains, refer to [http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/hydro-lift.pdf Fast and Easy Way to Check Hydraulic Lifter Preload when using Non-Adjustable Rocker Arms] from Crane. | The following is information and instructions on how to successfully adjust the preload on '''''adjustable''''' hydraulic lifter valve trains. For '''non adjustable''' valve trains, refer to [http://www.cranecams.com/pdf-tech-tips/hydro-lift.pdf Fast and Easy Way to Check Hydraulic Lifter Preload when using Non-Adjustable Rocker Arms] from Crane. | ||
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#Lifter height due to different manufacturer | #Lifter height due to different manufacturer | ||
#Change in rocker arm type or design, or ratio | #Change in rocker arm type or design, or ratio | ||
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| + | [[File:Lifter cutaway preload.jpg|border|400px|right]] | ||
==How much preload should I use?== | ==How much preload should I use?== | ||
The recommendation given below to use 1/2 to 1 turn past zero lash is based on what has been shown to work well when using stock or performance hydraulic lifters. However, the amount of preload may be different, depending on the type and brand of hydraulic lifters being used. For example, there are Rhodes lifters that are set using a feeler gauge- something that's traditionally reserved for solid lifters. Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions first before proceeding. If the manufacturer's instructions differ from those given here, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. | The recommendation given below to use 1/2 to 1 turn past zero lash is based on what has been shown to work well when using stock or performance hydraulic lifters. However, the amount of preload may be different, depending on the type and brand of hydraulic lifters being used. For example, there are Rhodes lifters that are set using a feeler gauge- something that's traditionally reserved for solid lifters. Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions first before proceeding. If the manufacturer's instructions differ from those given here, follow the manufacturer's recommendations. | ||
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==Should I "pump up" my lifters with oil before installing them?== | ==Should I "pump up" my lifters with oil before installing them?== | ||
Generally speaking, no. The lifters can be dipped into a container of oil but unless the manufacturer's instructions tell you otherwise, there's no need to pump the lifters up before installing them. | Generally speaking, no. The lifters can be dipped into a container of oil but unless the manufacturer's instructions tell you otherwise, there's no need to pump the lifters up before installing them. | ||
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==Can I replace a damaged lifter with a new lifter?== | ==Can I replace a damaged lifter with a new lifter?== | ||
| − | Before you replace a lifter (which should only be done as a LAST resort), disassemble | + | [[File:Lifter clips 002.jpg|thumb|350px|left|Three styles of lifter cup retainers. The [http://www.truarc.com/pdfs/Truarc%20Catalog.pdf internal C-clip type] is stronger and should be used especially with solid lifters or when "zero lashing" lifters]][[File:Lifter expolded view.jpg|thumb|200px|right|Arrow points to check ball retainer]] |
| + | Before you replace a lifter (which should only be done as a LAST resort), disassemble the lifter in question by pressing down on the pushrod cup and removing the snap ring. Invert and tap the lifter on a hard surface to remove the internal components. You will see a cup, spring and check ball assembly snapped onto the bottom of the center "piston" or "plunger" of the lifter. Often all that has happened is the cup assembly isn't fully seated onto the piston, or a speck of dirt has lodges between the check ball and seat. | ||
Remove the cup using a pick and see that the (tiny) spring and ball are there and that the ball isn't scored and that the seat on the piston that the ball seals, doesn't have any ridge or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly. | Remove the cup using a pick and see that the (tiny) spring and ball are there and that the ball isn't scored and that the seat on the piston that the ball seals, doesn't have any ridge or imperfections that would prevent the ball from seating properly. | ||
| − | Shown above, | + | Shown above, right, is a disassembled GM hydraulic roller lifter. Most current flat tappet lifters have the same internal construction as this roller lifter, although there are different styles. But as long as the styles are the same, the piston from one can usually be fitted into another body. The arrow shows the location of the cup, spring and check ball assembly mentioned above. |
A better choice if the lifter's piston is found to be unrepairable, would be to replace the piston from another identical lifter, and reuse the lifter body that has broken in to the lobe that it started life running on. The lifter foot and the cam lobe quickly wear in together to become a unit- using a new lifter risks wiping out the cam lobe. This is also why it is not recommended to replace a used set of lifters with a new set on a used camshaft. | A better choice if the lifter's piston is found to be unrepairable, would be to replace the piston from another identical lifter, and reuse the lifter body that has broken in to the lobe that it started life running on. The lifter foot and the cam lobe quickly wear in together to become a unit- using a new lifter risks wiping out the cam lobe. This is also why it is not recommended to replace a used set of lifters with a new set on a used camshaft. | ||
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