Hot rodding the HEI distributor
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The HEI centrifugal advance is susceptible to wear. Typically the centrifugal advance weights wear their pivot holes into an "oval" or eat a groove into their pivot pins (see green arrows in image below). If an attempt to change the advance curve is made on a distributor that suffers from these problems, the mechanical advance may not work as smoothly as needed. So fix it first or get another HEI to start improvements on; just make sure you are getting the right one for your engine- they were used on ALL makes of GM inline and V6/V8 engines and all look similar. | The HEI centrifugal advance is susceptible to wear. Typically the centrifugal advance weights wear their pivot holes into an "oval" or eat a groove into their pivot pins (see green arrows in image below). If an attempt to change the advance curve is made on a distributor that suffers from these problems, the mechanical advance may not work as smoothly as needed. So fix it first or get another HEI to start improvements on; just make sure you are getting the right one for your engine- they were used on ALL makes of GM inline and V6/V8 engines and all look similar. | ||
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Also, the centrifugal advance plate (that rotates on the main distributor shaft as the centrifugal advance moves it), near the top of the distributor shaft sometimes gets gummed up and "sticky," slowing the advance curve and generally preventing the centrifugal advance assembly from working correctly. If your centrifugal advance doesn't "snap" back when you twist the rotor with your hand and let it go then you have this problem. You need to pull the distributor shaft apart and clean everything out, especially up top, before you proceed with upgrades. See the '''[[Hot rodding the HEI distributor#Resources|articles on rebuilding the HEI]]''' below. | Also, the centrifugal advance plate (that rotates on the main distributor shaft as the centrifugal advance moves it), near the top of the distributor shaft sometimes gets gummed up and "sticky," slowing the advance curve and generally preventing the centrifugal advance assembly from working correctly. If your centrifugal advance doesn't "snap" back when you twist the rotor with your hand and let it go then you have this problem. You need to pull the distributor shaft apart and clean everything out, especially up top, before you proceed with upgrades. See the '''[[Hot rodding the HEI distributor#Resources|articles on rebuilding the HEI]]''' below. | ||
| + | ====Limiting or locking the mechanical advance mechanism==== | ||
In many cases, the mechanical advance has to be modified to shorten the amount of advance it can give, After determining how much mechanical advance your HEI is giving you, and it's determined it's too much for the amount of initial advance you want to run, the mods to the mechanical advance are shown in the image below (thanks to 69-CHVL of [http://www.chevelles.com/forums/ Team Chevelle]). | In many cases, the mechanical advance has to be modified to shorten the amount of advance it can give, After determining how much mechanical advance your HEI is giving you, and it's determined it's too much for the amount of initial advance you want to run, the mods to the mechanical advance are shown in the image below (thanks to 69-CHVL of [http://www.chevelles.com/forums/ Team Chevelle]). | ||
[[File:HEIadvlimitlock2.jpg|thumb|left|400px|]] <br style="clear:both"/> | [[File:HEIadvlimitlock2.jpg|thumb|left|400px|]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
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| + | [[File:Arrowed mech adv.jpg |thumb|400px|left|Red arrows point to the hole that's available to use for a limiter screw. Green arrows point to the ends of the advance slots that would need to be filled in to limit the amount of advance of a CW rotation distributor (like a Chevy) if limiting screws weren't used. CCW rotation distributors (like Pontiac) would have the other ends filled in. Blue arrows indicate the wear that's often seen on a high mileage/neglected HEI. Black arrows show the plastic wear buttons the weights ride on- they must be in place or the weights will be tipped and could function and wear poorly.]] <br style="clear:both"/> | ||
On the stock HEI and many aftermarket HEI distributors, there are suitable holes that can be used for the limiter screw (red arrows in image above). | On the stock HEI and many aftermarket HEI distributors, there are suitable holes that can be used for the limiter screw (red arrows in image above). | ||
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Using a relatively mild camshaft and compression ratio matching the cam: You want about 12 (crankshaft) degrees total vacuum advance if you run WITHOUT a functional EGR system, 16 degrees if you run WITH a functional EGR system. Regardless, you want it to come in between about 5 and 15 in/Hg of manifold vacuum. Crane has an adjustable vacuum advance can kit, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99600-1 p/n 99600-1]. Install the advance can with about 9 turns (tighter than the loosest setting) of the adjustment screw as a starting point. Another adjustable vacuum advance can for the GM HEI is the Accel [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-31035/ p/n 31035] that is said to allow infinite adjustment to both the amount and rate of advance. Comes w/instructions and tool. | Using a relatively mild camshaft and compression ratio matching the cam: You want about 12 (crankshaft) degrees total vacuum advance if you run WITHOUT a functional EGR system, 16 degrees if you run WITH a functional EGR system. Regardless, you want it to come in between about 5 and 15 in/Hg of manifold vacuum. Crane has an adjustable vacuum advance can kit, [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99600-1 p/n 99600-1]. Install the advance can with about 9 turns (tighter than the loosest setting) of the adjustment screw as a starting point. Another adjustable vacuum advance can for the GM HEI is the Accel [http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ACC-31035/ p/n 31035] that is said to allow infinite adjustment to both the amount and rate of advance. Comes w/instructions and tool. | ||
| − | + | ====Limiting the amount of vacuum advance==== | |
| + | An adjustable vacuum advance can lets the tip-in point be tailored to the engine vacuum, so the vacuum advance will start and stop at the right amount of vacuum. Along with that, there's oftn a need to limit how much vacuum advance is supplied. This can be accomplished in several ways. | ||
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| + | If you find the ''amount'' of vacuum advance being supplied by a particular vacuum advance can (be it a stock or aftermarket can) to be excessive but otherwise OK for tip-in and rate of vacuum advance, use the adjustable vacuum advance "limiter" cam that comes with the Crane vacuum advance, or another type of limeter (see images below). | ||
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| + | MSD has a limiter plate (shown below) that does the same basic thing as the Crane part above. The difference is the MSD part doesn't "preload" the vacuum advance can like the Crane limiter plate. Preloading the vacuum advance changes the tip-in point and also requires the initial timing to be readjusted each time the vacuum advance limiter plate is adjusted. | ||
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| + | <gallery caption="Vacuum advance limiters"> | ||
| + | File:MSD HEI Vacuum Advance Stop Plate pn 84281.jpg|[http://www.msdignition.com/instructions/Products/84281.pdf?terms=MSD+Pro+Billet MSD vacuum advance stop plate p/n 84281.] | ||
| + | File:Crane pn 99619-1 vacuum advance limiter plate.jpg|[http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CRN-99619-1/ Crane vacuum advance limiter plate pn 99619-1.] | ||
| + | </gallery> | ||
====Vacuum advance when using a relatively "big" camshaft==== | ====Vacuum advance when using a relatively "big" camshaft==== | ||
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