Cheapo paint job
(Format text, image; minor clean up;) |
m |
||
| Line 56: | Line 56: | ||
Some experimentation has led some to believe that what Dupli-Color is selling in quart cans is basically identical to what they are selling in their spray cans as "touch up" paint. Just different packaging. Better results will always be obtained with a good spray gun but the curious can generally try the spray can versions to get a fair idea of what this paint is like without investing in any painting equipment. | Some experimentation has led some to believe that what Dupli-Color is selling in quart cans is basically identical to what they are selling in their spray cans as "touch up" paint. Just different packaging. Better results will always be obtained with a good spray gun but the curious can generally try the spray can versions to get a fair idea of what this paint is like without investing in any painting equipment. | ||
| − | + | ==Oil-based machinery-type paint== | |
| − | + | ===Rustoleum=== | |
====Pros==== | ====Pros==== | ||
*Rustoleum can resist chalking and weathering almost as well as factory enamel paint if taken care of. Many people tend to judge Rustoleum by how it weathers on outdoor equipment and its other more usual applications. But no one buffs and waxes the wrought iron railings on their steps or outdoor oil tanks, so, yes, the paint tends to suffer. | *Rustoleum can resist chalking and weathering almost as well as factory enamel paint if taken care of. Many people tend to judge Rustoleum by how it weathers on outdoor equipment and its other more usual applications. But no one buffs and waxes the wrought iron railings on their steps or outdoor oil tanks, so, yes, the paint tends to suffer. | ||
| − | |||
*Until the early 1960's, many OEM's used alkyd enamels to paint their cars, which were quite similar to what Rustoleum has for sale today. Some import manufacturers continued using alkyd enamels into at least the 1980's. For example a 1981 Isuzu pickup will have a buck tag underhood clearly stating "alkyd enamel" as the OEM paint. Dupont's website has [http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/common/about/dr-history.html a small history section] that makes mention of their alkyd enamel automotive paint, "Dulux". | *Until the early 1960's, many OEM's used alkyd enamels to paint their cars, which were quite similar to what Rustoleum has for sale today. Some import manufacturers continued using alkyd enamels into at least the 1980's. For example a 1981 Isuzu pickup will have a buck tag underhood clearly stating "alkyd enamel" as the OEM paint. Dupont's website has [http://pc.dupont.com/dpc/en/US/html/common/about/dr-history.html a small history section] that makes mention of their alkyd enamel automotive paint, "Dulux". | ||
| − | |||
*Inexpensive, and widely available. | *Inexpensive, and widely available. | ||
| − | |||
*Rustoleum is a one part paint, does not require the trouble some clear coat known to come off of vehicles requiring expensive stripping and repainting. Clear coat over time has a noticeable failure rate as seen on older cars. | *Rustoleum is a one part paint, does not require the trouble some clear coat known to come off of vehicles requiring expensive stripping and repainting. Clear coat over time has a noticeable failure rate as seen on older cars. | ||
| − | |||
*Unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum spray, roll and brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. | *Unlike a base coat-clear coat type spray paint job where things must be done within certain time frames, a Rustoleum spray, roll and brush job can be started and stopped at the painter's convenience. | ||
*Though Rustoleum Paints are based on the previous alkyd enamels, a process that had been abandoned to new processes that included clear coats, this method remains a very doable method for an inexpensive home project to put paint on your vehicle. Plus, using enamel is generally far less toxic than using a urethane based paint...particularly in an enclosed environment like a garage. | *Though Rustoleum Paints are based on the previous alkyd enamels, a process that had been abandoned to new processes that included clear coats, this method remains a very doable method for an inexpensive home project to put paint on your vehicle. Plus, using enamel is generally far less toxic than using a urethane based paint...particularly in an enclosed environment like a garage. | ||
| Line 88: | Line 84: | ||
*Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearance. | *Rustoleum enamels also lack the "depth" of color that many other types of paints have, though some people like the look as it compares well with many 1960's factory enamel paint jobs in appearance. | ||
| − | + | ===Application=== | |
If you are considering using Rust-oleum, it is highly recommended that you spend a few dollars on some to experiment with first. Take it home and apply it to something like a garden tractor or spare car hood in the same way you would to your car. Sand it, polish it, wax it, the whole thing. Then study it very closely and decide if this is something you indeed want on your car. | If you are considering using Rust-oleum, it is highly recommended that you spend a few dollars on some to experiment with first. Take it home and apply it to something like a garden tractor or spare car hood in the same way you would to your car. Sand it, polish it, wax it, the whole thing. Then study it very closely and decide if this is something you indeed want on your car. | ||
| Line 96: | Line 92: | ||
==Why is the "cheapo" paint job so tempting?== | ==Why is the "cheapo" paint job so tempting?== | ||
| − | *The learning curve: selecting equipment and learning how to use it, choosing finish products, getting a few screw-ups under your belt | + | *The learning curve: selecting equipment and learning how to use it, choosing finish products, getting a few screw-ups under your belt |
*Automotive paint costs a lot (figure $300+ per gallon at 2012 prices). People who have never bought car paint are used to paying "house paint" prices for paint, so hundreds per gallon seems very high | *Automotive paint costs a lot (figure $300+ per gallon at 2012 prices). People who have never bought car paint are used to paying "house paint" prices for paint, so hundreds per gallon seems very high | ||
| − | *The satisfaction of a "do it yourself" project completed | + | *The satisfaction of a "do it yourself" project completed |
| − | *Forum posts often show cheapo paint jobs that appear to be high quality | + | *Forum posts often show cheapo paint jobs that appear to be high quality |
==Why not do a "cheapo" paint job?== | ==Why not do a "cheapo" paint job?== | ||
| − | *Time invested in mechanical aspect of job | + | *Time invested in mechanical aspect of job |
| − | *Deterioration of finish over time. Looks great at first, but can take years to deteriorate | + | *Deterioration of finish over time. Looks great at first, but can take years to deteriorate |
| − | *Value of paint job relevant to value of rest of vehicle is disproportionate. For example: using this method to paint a show car or rare automobile | + | *Value of paint job relevant to value of rest of vehicle is disproportionate. For example: using this method to paint a show car or rare automobile |
*Down the line, if you want to do a professional-quality paint job, all of the underlying cheapo paint will need to be removed. Stripping the paint, doing the filler work, priming, blocking, and removing trim or panels can take hundreds of hours for a hobbyist, or cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. When modern finishes are applied over cheapo finishes, the differing chemical make-ups cause problems. This removal is very time-consuming and labor intensive. Cheapo paints are often very soluble, and when modern finishes are applied over them, the solvents will get under the old paint and make it peel. | *Down the line, if you want to do a professional-quality paint job, all of the underlying cheapo paint will need to be removed. Stripping the paint, doing the filler work, priming, blocking, and removing trim or panels can take hundreds of hours for a hobbyist, or cost thousands of dollars if done professionally. When modern finishes are applied over cheapo finishes, the differing chemical make-ups cause problems. This removal is very time-consuming and labor intensive. Cheapo paints are often very soluble, and when modern finishes are applied over them, the solvents will get under the old paint and make it peel. | ||
| Line 144: | Line 140: | ||
*http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/odd-painting-technique-does-work-107890.html | *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/odd-painting-technique-does-work-107890.html | ||
*http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/98-roller-paint-job-hot-rod-117274.html | *http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/98-roller-paint-job-hot-rod-117274.html | ||
| − | |||
Your Privacy Choices