1937-1957 Buick Oldsmobile Pontiac suspension upgrade
(Minor clean up; format) |
(Minor clean up) |
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The brakes on these cars definitely need improvement. | The brakes on these cars definitely need improvement. | ||
| − | The brakes should be handled first, because the decision you make on the brakes determines the spindles you'll need, and you must have your spindles before you can design your suspension. The information listed here is general in nature and varies from model to model and year to year. Earliest models had 1- | + | The brakes should be handled first, because the decision you make on the brakes determines the spindles you'll need, and you must have your spindles before you can design your suspension. The information listed here is general in nature and varies from model to model and year to year. Earliest models had 1-3/8 inch by 11 inch brakes with 1 inch ID wheel cylinders. |
| − | Postwar, they were 2 | + | Postwar, they were 2-1/4" by 12”, with 1-1/8” wheel cylinders. The most basic upgrade would be to the later, larger, components. Control arms and spindles are unchanged for 20 years, so this is a basic bolt on. Even the shop manuals refer to this upgrade. |
| − | The single | + | The single reservoir master cylinder is located under the floor and bolted to the frame. A new split system [[master cylinder]] and power [[booster]] will be an amazing transformation of your stopping ability. Several aftermarket master cylinders and 7” boosters (with universal pedal mounts) are available. With a V8 engine swap, a 7” booster seems to be the most you can squeeze under the [[hood]]. |
| − | The Geo Metro hanging pedal and 7 inch booster is one option, but the MC is small. Didn't chase down a match, but the center hole and bolt pattern appear to be typical GM. Be sure to get one designed for a booster application, and pay attention to the pushrod length | + | The Geo Metro hanging pedal and 7 inch booster is one option, but the MC (master cylinder) is small. Didn't chase down a match, but the center hole and bolt pattern appear to be typical GM. Be sure to get one designed for a booster application, and pay attention to the pushrod length. |
| − | In this case, the unit was located just outboard of the steering column | + | Pulling the old pedals out was twice the work of putting the new one in. In this case, the unit was located just outboard of the steering column in order to clear the engine. Under the dash, the hanging pedal was slightly bent to the center, to get a good pedal position. And a new, larger pedal pad (more appropriate to a large car and automatic transmission) was welded on. |
===Drum brake upgrade=== | ===Drum brake upgrade=== | ||
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