How to rebuild an engine
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Before the cam can be removed, the damper and timing cover have to be removed. Use a puller to remove the damper and remove the oil pan before removing the timing cover to avoid bending it, if this is a SBC engine. | Before the cam can be removed, the damper and timing cover have to be removed. Use a puller to remove the damper and remove the oil pan before removing the timing cover to avoid bending it, if this is a SBC engine. | ||
| − | The SBC engines from the factory sometimes had a nylon covered cam gear. This nylon couls- and did- come off wehen the gear wore out. The plastic pieces then fell into the oil pan to be suched up in the oil pump screen. This has caused many failures in the past. | + | The SBC engines from the factory sometimes had a nylon covered cam gear. This nylon couls- and did- come off wehen the gear wore out. The plastic pieces then fell into the oil pan to be suched up in the oil pump screen. This has caused many failures in the past. If you see a gear missing the plastic on ANY engine, you know the pan and pump need to be inspected and cleaned of any plastic. |
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| − | If you see a gear missing the plastic on ANY engine, you know the pan and pump need to be inspected and cleaned of any plastic. | + | |
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Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod caps, take a number set, engraver or center punch and number/ID the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. After marking the main caps for location if needed (some will be marked for position from the factory), undo the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, and with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse than damaging a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and coat the engine bores, etc. with ATF, etc. to keep rust to a minimum. | Remove lifters from their bores; use a hook or removal tool and carb cleaner spray to remove the hard ones. Keep the lifters in order if they are to be reused. Drain the oil then pull the crank pulley, timing cover and the oil pan. Remove the timing gears and chain. Pull the camshaft. Remove the oil pump and drive rod. Before un-doing the rod caps, take a number set, engraver or center punch and number/ID the caps and the rods. Pull off the cap on ONE rod and using a hardwood block, tap out the piston and then go on to the next. With all the pistons out, match up the caps and loosely nut them. Pull the flywheel or flex plate. After marking the main caps for location if needed (some will be marked for position from the factory), undo the main bearing bolts, pull the bearing shells, and with care lift the crank out of the bearing shells and place on the work bench. Make sure that you block the crank so it won't roll off the bench. Nothing worse than damaging a crank when it hits the floor. Wash down all the parts and block. Lightly coat the bearing surfaces with clean oil and coat the engine bores, etc. with ATF, etc. to keep rust to a minimum. | ||
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