Window removal and installation
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== Basic removal techniques == | == Basic removal techniques == | ||
− | === | + | ===Windshield=== |
====Rubber Seal type==== | ====Rubber Seal type==== | ||
− | On older cars and even some | + | On older cars and even some truck,s it's really not hard removing a front or back windshield. Many people suggest using a knife and just cutting the old seal the glass is held in with. This runs the risk of the user getting cut when the knife slips. |
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+ | Say you want to remove the front windshield of your 1950's car. You get inside the vehicle and at the top, take a flat blade screw driver starting in the middle and working towards one side of the car push the old rubber seal over the pinchweld. Once you get to the side of the car, start again at the top in the middle working the rubber over the pinchweld to the opposite side of the car. | ||
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+ | After you've worked to both sides of the car, the windshield can then be pushed free of the body. Just don't push TOO hard or you may find the glass laying on the ground in pieces? | ||
Now the windshield will be out of the car. You didn't cut your hand with a knife, and this method really doesn't take any longer then using a knife to cut the old seal. | Now the windshield will be out of the car. You didn't cut your hand with a knife, and this method really doesn't take any longer then using a knife to cut the old seal. | ||
PS. This removal method can also be used to remove a back (rear) windshield. | PS. This removal method can also be used to remove a back (rear) windshield. | ||
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====Factory glued-in glass==== | ====Factory glued-in glass==== | ||
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To start, cut off a length of wire about 3-4 times as long as your window is vertically, measuring from bottom to top of glass. Remove any interior trim if possible, to make things easier. | To start, cut off a length of wire about 3-4 times as long as your window is vertically, measuring from bottom to top of glass. Remove any interior trim if possible, to make things easier. | ||
− | + | Also, take the time to remove the wiper blades/arms and any plastic side trim or cowl fillers, so you can get to the bottom/sides of the glass edge. We will start at the bottom. | |
Wrap one end of your wire twice around one handle, with 8-9" of wire hanging off the middle of the handle. Wrap this TIGHTLY around the long side of the wire, do not twist together. We will be pulling and do not want kinks or twists in the area between the handles and the glass, as this makes the wire weaker by work-hardening. Think of the little springs on a factory brake line and wrap the free end so it looks like that. | Wrap one end of your wire twice around one handle, with 8-9" of wire hanging off the middle of the handle. Wrap this TIGHTLY around the long side of the wire, do not twist together. We will be pulling and do not want kinks or twists in the area between the handles and the glass, as this makes the wire weaker by work-hardening. Think of the little springs on a factory brake line and wrap the free end so it looks like that. | ||
− | Now take the | + | Now, take the needle-nose pliers, and, starting at the bottom center of the glass edge, push the wire straight up into the urethane so it follows the inside edge of the glass towards the top. The wire should push fairly easily straight in, as if it was a needle. Once you carefully have pushed enough in to grab it with the pliers from the inside, pull about 4 feet or so into the car. Be sure it does not kink, a kink is a weak spot for pulling. |
From inside, feed it through the urethane along the glass at the top until it just touches the edge of the window recess. Again, like a needle would follow the inside edge of the glass. Now go outside, find the end, using the sharp knife to trim the urethane if necessary, and pull it out slowly until the wire is flat against the inside of the glass, without kinking it. If necessary feed more through until you have the bottom handle about 3 feet from the base of the glass, then with about the same amount of wire from the top of the glass, attach the second handle by wrapping it 2-3 times with wire, and twisting the loose end around the wire leading to the glass, as mentioned above. | From inside, feed it through the urethane along the glass at the top until it just touches the edge of the window recess. Again, like a needle would follow the inside edge of the glass. Now go outside, find the end, using the sharp knife to trim the urethane if necessary, and pull it out slowly until the wire is flat against the inside of the glass, without kinking it. If necessary feed more through until you have the bottom handle about 3 feet from the base of the glass, then with about the same amount of wire from the top of the glass, attach the second handle by wrapping it 2-3 times with wire, and twisting the loose end around the wire leading to the glass, as mentioned above. | ||
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Trim out the excess urethane in the channel the same way, so just a thim layer remains, and no big chunks. Some ppl like to leave the majority in place, I trim as much of the old out as I can and add new urethane, so I can be SURE it will seal all the way around. Any bare metal spots in the channel should be primed/painted of course, and rust removed as much as possible. If the channel has rot in it then the bad metal should be cut out and a new piece made up and welded in it's place. Pull the headliner before welding, and keep an extinguisher handy. | Trim out the excess urethane in the channel the same way, so just a thim layer remains, and no big chunks. Some ppl like to leave the majority in place, I trim as much of the old out as I can and add new urethane, so I can be SURE it will seal all the way around. Any bare metal spots in the channel should be primed/painted of course, and rust removed as much as possible. If the channel has rot in it then the bad metal should be cut out and a new piece made up and welded in it's place. Pull the headliner before welding, and keep an extinguisher handy. | ||
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===Side window=== | ===Side window=== |