DynoSim combinations
(→SBC pump gas street cruiser: add links) |
(→400 SBC with Vortec heads: fix link) |
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Crane's description says this cam needs a 2500 converter, but with the amount of torque the engine will make down low a stock converter and a 3.50 gear will suffice. The lobe separation angle of 106 degrees will help make the bottom end torque that's needed for a stock converter and 3.5:1 range rear gears. The 0.450" lift will work with the stock springs and retainers. Be sure to use feeler gauges between the spring coils at full valve lift to insure that the springs don't stack solid. In theory, they shouldn't, but they have to be checked to be sure. Use 16-18 degrees of initial advance with an additional amount of mechanical advance to bring the total initial and mechanical to 34 degrees. That's all you need with these heads. You need more at the crank than you would with a stock cam though, for the motor to idle properly. We need to bring the idle down for use with a stock converter so we don't have to stand on the brake pedal at stoplights. See [[Hot rodding the HEI distributor]] for details on this and for using a vacuum advance. | Crane's description says this cam needs a 2500 converter, but with the amount of torque the engine will make down low a stock converter and a 3.50 gear will suffice. The lobe separation angle of 106 degrees will help make the bottom end torque that's needed for a stock converter and 3.5:1 range rear gears. The 0.450" lift will work with the stock springs and retainers. Be sure to use feeler gauges between the spring coils at full valve lift to insure that the springs don't stack solid. In theory, they shouldn't, but they have to be checked to be sure. Use 16-18 degrees of initial advance with an additional amount of mechanical advance to bring the total initial and mechanical to 34 degrees. That's all you need with these heads. You need more at the crank than you would with a stock cam though, for the motor to idle properly. We need to bring the idle down for use with a stock converter so we don't have to stand on the brake pedal at stoplights. See [[Hot rodding the HEI distributor]] for details on this and for using a vacuum advance. | ||
| − | To the long block, add an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and top it off with a rebuilt | + | To the long block, add an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake manifold and top it off with a rebuilt [http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/carbs_access_main.shtml Edelbrock] Thunder series AVS 650 CFM manual choke carburetor, p/n 1805. Also get the Edelbrock choke cable p/n 8013. |
Mount a 14" x 4" air filter on top. Stack two 14 x 2's if you can't find a 4" thick element. This (and any) motor needs to breathe. Bolt on a pair of long-tube 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" headers and connect the two sides of the exhaust system by using either an X or an H pipe right after the collectors. Use the mufflers of your choice. | Mount a 14" x 4" air filter on top. Stack two 14 x 2's if you can't find a 4" thick element. This (and any) motor needs to breathe. Bolt on a pair of long-tube 1-5/8" to 1-3/4" headers and connect the two sides of the exhaust system by using either an X or an H pipe right after the collectors. Use the mufflers of your choice. | ||
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When using a flat tappet cam, break in is uber important. Read up on what to do and how to do it [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...tips_and_tricks '''here''']. | When using a flat tappet cam, break in is uber important. Read up on what to do and how to do it [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/...tips_and_tricks '''here''']. | ||
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===350 SBC- Cheap to build/regular fuel street motor=== | ===350 SBC- Cheap to build/regular fuel street motor=== | ||
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