The FREE T Bucket plans
(→Coil Over's) |
(→Steering assembly) |
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==Steering assembly== | ==Steering assembly== | ||
+ | The two things any car has to do for safety and survival are STEER and STOP!! | ||
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+ | ==Bracing and mounting the Body== | ||
For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" inch full crossmember at the back edge of the "door" edge bead, and the last about halfway from the "door" bead to the back of the bucket. If you have chosen to not have the framerails sticking inside the cabin with you at the back, weld a tab to the top of the kickup and form it to meet the back walland install a bolt on each side to stabilize the back wall on these tab mounts. | For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" inch full crossmember at the back edge of the "door" edge bead, and the last about halfway from the "door" bead to the back of the bucket. If you have chosen to not have the framerails sticking inside the cabin with you at the back, weld a tab to the top of the kickup and form it to meet the back walland install a bolt on each side to stabilize the back wall on these tab mounts. | ||
Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick flatwashers along with lockwashers to secure your body down to the frame. After your first 50-100 miles of riding, check all fasteners for tightness. | Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick flatwashers along with lockwashers to secure your body down to the frame. After your first 50-100 miles of riding, check all fasteners for tightness. |