The FREE T Bucket plans
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==Planning your build== | ==Planning your build== | ||
| − | '''Before you ever START to plan the build of the vehicle, make sure you know EXACTLY what you need to do in order to register your vehicle in your state / county / town. Many people have had to do expensive changes to their street rod because they | + | '''Before you ever START to plan the build of the vehicle, make sure you know EXACTLY what you need to do in order to register your vehicle in your state / county / town. Many people have had to do expensive changes to their street rod because they ignored this step until the vehicle was "ready to drive"''' |
"Step One: Get catalogs from the Boys in the Business: Spirit Motors (Mountain Home AR), Speedway Motors (Lincoln, NE), Total Performance (Wallingford CT) and many others. | "Step One: Get catalogs from the Boys in the Business: Spirit Motors (Mountain Home AR), Speedway Motors (Lincoln, NE), Total Performance (Wallingford CT) and many others. | ||
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Step Five: Now that you have some basic knowledge under your belt, decide what style T you want to build......"classic" 23-25 or 26-27 roadster pickup, 23-25 or 26-27 track car with hood, nose and turtle deck, 23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | Step Five: Now that you have some basic knowledge under your belt, decide what style T you want to build......"classic" 23-25 or 26-27 roadster pickup, 23-25 or 26-27 track car with hood, nose and turtle deck, 23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | ||
| − | Be honest with yourself and build your T Bucket to perform to your satisfaction. The classic high horsepower, low rear end gears, steam roller tires and spoked front wheels are great for show and an instant rush when you step on it, but may not be the ticket if you want to drive more than a few miles in comfort and get good gas | + | Be honest with yourself and build your T Bucket to perform to your satisfaction. The classic high horsepower, low rear end gears, steam roller tires and spoked front wheels are great for show and an instant rush when you step on it, but may not be the ticket if you want to drive more than a few miles in comfort and get good gas mileage. Many builders are opting for four wheel disk brakes, fuel injection, moderate size tires, hydraulic shocks on the front suspension, 4 spd overdrive transmissions, etc. All of these features are a personal preference, and since there's no right or wrong way, build it your way. |
==Frame== | ==Frame== | ||
"Where you have essentially two body groups 23-25 and 26-27, frame designs are all over the map. Many early Buckets were built on modified stock T frames or Model A frames. Others were built on early Chevy rails, or even channel iron frames. The "modern" T is usually sitting on a 2X3 or 2X4 ,.120-.180 wall thickness rectangular box tubing frame with a 2.5-3" tubular front cross member. | "Where you have essentially two body groups 23-25 and 26-27, frame designs are all over the map. Many early Buckets were built on modified stock T frames or Model A frames. Others were built on early Chevy rails, or even channel iron frames. The "modern" T is usually sitting on a 2X3 or 2X4 ,.120-.180 wall thickness rectangular box tubing frame with a 2.5-3" tubular front cross member. | ||
| − | Some frame makers make their frames one width front to back like a stock T frame, others have a frame that tapers from the rear to the front | + | Some frame makers make their frames one width front to back like a stock T frame, others have a frame that tapers from the rear to the front similar to a Model A frame. And others have other ideas." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod |
==="Classic" style=== | ==="Classic" style=== | ||
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Fabricated axles: | Fabricated axles: | ||
Many makers (Speedway Motors, Total Performance, and others) | Many makers (Speedway Motors, Total Performance, and others) | ||
| − | usually sold and described as dropped axle in 4-5-6" drops and made to | + | usually sold and described as dropped axle in 4-5-6" drops and made to accommodate 37-48 Ford Passenger Car and 37-47 Ford Pickup spindles, or 61-66 Ford Econoline Van spindles, or 49-54 Chevrolet Passenger Car spindles. |
NEW Manufactured axles: | NEW Manufactured axles: | ||
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"Based on the 28-34 Ford suspension, this is the old classic if there is any such thing. | "Based on the 28-34 Ford suspension, this is the old classic if there is any such thing. | ||
Most important thing is to make sure your spring is mounted under tension as the original Ford design requires. The spring must be spread to mount the shackles to the perches. Be sure if you are using a 28-31 or 32-34 front spring to have the perches at the proper width and have the correct shackles for the spring you have, 32-34 springs have a larger spring eye than 28-31 As do. | Most important thing is to make sure your spring is mounted under tension as the original Ford design requires. The spring must be spread to mount the shackles to the perches. Be sure if you are using a 28-31 or 32-34 front spring to have the perches at the proper width and have the correct shackles for the spring you have, 32-34 springs have a larger spring eye than 28-31 As do. | ||
| − | The original springs are 10-12 leaf units. Unless you are running a big block or early heavy engine you'll be best served if you experiment with the number of leaves in the front spring. Keep the main leaf and number 2, removing the odd number springs(3.5.7.9 etc)to reach your best number. YES, it is a pain in the neck to remove, dismantle, remove leaves, reassemble and reinstall the spring, but it works. Try starting with a six leaf spring, main,2,4,6,8,10 to begin with. That could | + | The original springs are 10-12 leaf units. Unless you are running a big block or early heavy engine you'll be best served if you experiment with the number of leaves in the front spring. Keep the main leaf and number 2, removing the odd number springs(3.5.7.9 etc)to reach your best number. YES, it is a pain in the neck to remove, dismantle, remove leaves, reassemble and reinstall the spring, but it works. Try starting with a six leaf spring, main,2,4,6,8,10 to begin with. That could save you a few steps. |
What you are looking for when finished is a front end which deflects when you put your foot on the spring perch and push down. NOT, a situation where you have to stand on the perch and jump up and down to get movement. | What you are looking for when finished is a front end which deflects when you put your foot on the spring perch and push down. NOT, a situation where you have to stand on the perch and jump up and down to get movement. | ||
Always use tubular shocks, old name airplane shocks, not friction shocks, IF you really plan on driving your car." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | Always use tubular shocks, old name airplane shocks, not friction shocks, IF you really plan on driving your car." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | ||
| − | ===1/4 | + | ===1/4 elliptical=== |
[[Image:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14331]] | [[Image:http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=14331]] | ||
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This IS the most popular modern T suspension setup for the rear suspension." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | This IS the most popular modern T suspension setup for the rear suspension." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | ||
| − | ===Transverse Leaf | + | ===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)=== |
| − | "Based on the early Ford suspension, this is the "classic" bucket suspension. T springs (the most | + | "Based on the early Ford suspension, this is the "classic" bucket suspension. T springs (the most desirable being the very early taper-leaf units) and Model A springs (the most desirable being the roadster springs) are often called "high arch" springs, you know why. |
Again, to have the best buggy setup the spring should be mounted under tension as the original Ford design. The rear perches whether mounted on top, to the front, or to the rear of the rear axle should be 49.5" apart for a Model A spring and 48.5" apart for a Model T spring. | Again, to have the best buggy setup the spring should be mounted under tension as the original Ford design. The rear perches whether mounted on top, to the front, or to the rear of the rear axle should be 49.5" apart for a Model A spring and 48.5" apart for a Model T spring. | ||
As with the front springs you'll probably end up with a 5-7 leaf spring rather than the 10-14 leaf assembly you start with." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | As with the front springs you'll probably end up with a 5-7 leaf spring rather than the 10-14 leaf assembly you start with." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | ||
| − | ===1/4 | + | ===1/4 elliptical=== |
===4 link / Hair pins=== | ===4 link / Hair pins=== | ||
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==Bracing and mounting the Body== | ==Bracing and mounting the Body== | ||
| − | "For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" inch full | + | "For cleanest and simplest body mounting, weld your mounting tabs inside the frame rails at the side part of the cowl, a simple straight 1X2" inch full cross member at the back edge of the "door" edge bead, and the last about halfway from the "door" bead to the back of the bucket. If you have chosen to not have the framerails sticking inside the cabin with you at the back, weld a tab to the top of the kickup and form it to meet the back walland install a bolt on each side to stabilize the back wall on these tab mounts. |
| − | Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick | + | Your 3/4-1" marine plywood floor should rest directly on the frame rails on a layer of body to frame webbing or similar material to eliminate any squeaks from movement. Use minimum 3/8 bolts/nuts and large thick flat washers along with lock washers to secure your body down to the frame. After your first 50-100 miles of riding, check all fasteners for tightness. |
There you are, simple, secure, and solid. | There you are, simple, secure, and solid. | ||
A well made 23-25 T roadster body will not need any wooden bracing in the bucket itself unless you plan on having an opening door on the passenger side. | A well made 23-25 T roadster body will not need any wooden bracing in the bucket itself unless you plan on having an opening door on the passenger side. | ||
| − | It is important to reinforce the upper rail around the cabin. DO this before you have the floor installed as it is easier if the body is upside down. Measure your body and see how | + | It is important to reinforce the upper rail around the cabin. DO this before you have the floor installed as it is easier if the body is upside down. Measure your body and see how symmetrical it is. This can be done with a nice piece of 1/2" rebar formed to fit closely under the rail from the dashboard around the perimeter of the body and back to the dashboard. It is easier to do this in 2 pieces and then weld them together. Once you have a good fit mix a nice of your favorite filler and lay down a bed of it to nestle the rebar(derusted,epoxy-primed and painted of course) in. Once the filler has set up, go ahead and make up some more and completely enclose the bar in a cocoon of filler all the way around. |
Now the upper rail of your body is solid and it is time to install the floor and fit the body to the frame. | Now the upper rail of your body is solid and it is time to install the floor and fit the body to the frame. | ||
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The only thing that gives you a good, if not great, seat is a NEW Model T seat cushion spring assembly. These are made by 2 companies, Car-Line Mfg. in Beaumont TX and Snyder's Antique Auto Parts in New Springfield OH. You can buy them from many suppliers of Model T parts but these are the 2 manufacturers. | The only thing that gives you a good, if not great, seat is a NEW Model T seat cushion spring assembly. These are made by 2 companies, Car-Line Mfg. in Beaumont TX and Snyder's Antique Auto Parts in New Springfield OH. You can buy them from many suppliers of Model T parts but these are the 2 manufacturers. | ||
Mount the spring assembly to a 5/8-3/4" plywood base with 3-5 3" holes cut into the board. The upholstery design is up to you. The holes allow displaced air from your weight on the seat to escape without blowing up the upholstery, get it? | Mount the spring assembly to a 5/8-3/4" plywood base with 3-5 3" holes cut into the board. The upholstery design is up to you. The holes allow displaced air from your weight on the seat to escape without blowing up the upholstery, get it? | ||
| − | Determine the height of your seat riser board at the front of the cushion by mocking up the cushion assembly in the body. You'll want about a 4-6" board for the proper slope of | + | Determine the height of your seat riser board at the front of the cushion by mocking up the cushion assembly in the body. You'll want about a 4-6" board for the proper slope of the seat from front to back. You may put a short block or two under the back as well if it fits your purpose. |
| − | You might consider buying a stock T seat back rest spring too. This will give you a nice surface for your back to rest on. Don't forget to add | + | You might consider buying a stock T seat back rest spring too. This will give you a nice surface for your back to rest on. Don't forget to add a lumbar roll to the lower part of any upholstery you use, or have a nice upholstery matching lumbar pillow made for your driving comfort. |
| − | The coil spring seat assembly in your car and a working suspension on your car will give you as close to that "Cadillac" ride as you can get with a short wheelbase light car like the T and make those long trips to rod runs not only enjoyable but | + | The coil spring seat assembly in your car and a working suspension on your car will give you as close to that "Cadillac" ride as you can get with a short wheelbase light car like the T and make those long trips to rod runs not only enjoyable but desirable. Your wife or girlfriend will appreciate that comfort too, and there are rewards for that consideration, know-what-i-mean-Vern? |
Oh yeah, about seat inserts, those fiberglass inner wall and seat and floor moulded pieces that drop in and "save you time and money". DON'T DO IT! Unless you are the guy whose butt was used to determine the size and shape of that piece, it will be a mistake. These are usually moulded with a division between the seat depressions. This is because they need those ribs for structural strength, but YOU don't need 'em because space in a bucket is at a premium." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | Oh yeah, about seat inserts, those fiberglass inner wall and seat and floor moulded pieces that drop in and "save you time and money". DON'T DO IT! Unless you are the guy whose butt was used to determine the size and shape of that piece, it will be a mistake. These are usually moulded with a division between the seat depressions. This is because they need those ribs for structural strength, but YOU don't need 'em because space in a bucket is at a premium." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. | ||
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==Pedal Assemblies== | ==Pedal Assemblies== | ||
| − | One of the most overlooked aspects of building a T Bucket is seating position and location of controls. Many a T Bucket builder has spent many years and many dollars building their dream machine only to have it sit in the garage because it is too uncomfortable to drive. Try not to limit yourself because you just happen to have a | + | One of the most overlooked aspects of building a T Bucket is seating position and location of controls. Many a T Bucket builder has spent many years and many dollars building their dream machine only to have it sit in the garage because it is too uncomfortable to drive. Try not to limit yourself because you just happen to have a certain steering box or seat. These cars have a pretty small cockpit and there's not much room for controls. If your going to have a traditional style bucket with the steering column though the floor, be very careful that you have plenty of room for your knees and you'll be able to operate the gas and brake pedals. The best way is to mock up everything and make sure your final setup will work for you, especially if you are taller than 5'-8 or so. One trick is to locate the gas pedal over the transmission hump. This allows you to stretch out your right leg a bit and be more comfortable. |
==Shifter Assemblies== | ==Shifter Assemblies== | ||
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