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| − | ==Summary== | + | ==General Advice== |
| − | A list of techniques for removing rusted or broken bolts, nuts, screws, and fasteners.
| + | There is no general consensus as to whether steady or intermittent pressure is best for removing stuck fasteners. No matter what technique is used, you need to pay attention to what is turning and what is not. |
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| − | In all cases it is better to apply steady pressure on the wrench as you try to turn. You also need to pay attention to what is turning and what is not.-------------------------------------------------------------------I have found that in working on Aircraft bolts and screws that do not want to come apart that intermittent pressure such as an impact whench seems to be better suited to this job. A device that we built that works on screws that some one has stripped out the head ,Get an aircraft rivit gun(note: not a tubing cutter to fast) that has less than 2000 bpm(blows per minute) get one of the rivit gun sets and weld a piece of hex stock 3/4" to the working end of the set then weld an apex tip holder to the hex stock ( of course you need an air compressor 100lbs is just fine)put a philips tip in the apex holder (prior to that grind a little off the tip as they usually are slightly to long this will allow the tip to drop farther into the screw head so it will pick up what is left of the flutes in the head.)put the whole thing together and insert the tip into the screw head slowly pull the trigger on the rivit gun while at the same time put pressure on the box end whench you have installed on the hex part of your tool,making sure to keep pressure on the gun handel so it won't jump out of the work -one more word of caution even though this works almost 100% of the time it is possible(if the screw is into a plate nut)to drive the plate nut off its mount.
| + | Keep in mind that fastening hardware stuck together by corrosion is stuck because the corrosion has expanded and tightly bound the fastener. This means a really stuck bolt will not allow penetrating oils in to do any good. |
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| − | Keep in mind that stuff stuck together by corrosion is stuck because the corrosion has expanded and tightly bound the fastener. This means a really stuck bolt will not allow penetrating oils in to do any good.
| + | There are two effective means to break the friction that corrosion has caused. One is through mechanical movement, a proper good whack with a hammer. The other is through differential heating. Making one part expand more than the other. |
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| − | There are two effective means to break the friction that corrosion has caused. One is through mechanical movement, a proper good whack with a hammer. The other is through differential heating. Making one part expand more than the other.
| + | With heating, bear in mind axels and other important structures may lose their strength if they are heated much above 300 degrees. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke, then you are in the 300-degree range. |
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| − | With heating bear in mind axels and other important structures may loose their strength if they are heated much above 300 degrees. If you have the oil and grease starting to smoke than you are in the 300 degree range.
| + | When taking off head studs, look at the base. If you see erosion into the stud at the block surface, odds are pretty good you will break the stud. |
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| − | When taking off head studs look at the base. If you see erosion into the stud at the block surface, odds are pretty good you will break the stud. | + | |
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| | ==Smack it with a hammer== | | ==Smack it with a hammer== |
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