How to rebuild an engine
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== Requirements == | == Requirements == | ||
| − | === | + | === Tools and Work Area === |
====What tools are needed?==== | ====What tools are needed?==== | ||
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The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances. | The first tool you need is a service manual with complete specifications, such as torque values and tolerances. | ||
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====Selecting tools==== | ====Selecting tools==== | ||
| − | + | For each tool needed to rebuild an engine, we'll need to know: | |
*Approximately how much does the tool cost? | *Approximately how much does the tool cost? | ||
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====Purchasing tools==== | ====Purchasing tools==== | ||
| − | + | Sears (Craftsman tools), hardware stores or home centers, such as Home Depot, or companies such as Matco Tools, Snap On, and Mac Tools. Harbor Freight is another favorite tool source among hotrodders. | |
===Work area=== | ===Work area=== | ||
| − | Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty | + | Most people who are going to rebuild their own engine will be tearing it apart before taking it to a machine shop and then reassembling it when the machine work is done. When tearing it apart, try to work in an area that you can get dirty and where bolts and other small items won't get lost. |
When assembling an engine, your work area can't be too clean. Do yourself a big favor,get and stay organized. It will make your assembly go much smoother and easier. Take your time. Double check everything. Keep parts and work sufaces clean. Remember clean, clean, clean! | When assembling an engine, your work area can't be too clean. Do yourself a big favor,get and stay organized. It will make your assembly go much smoother and easier. Take your time. Double check everything. Keep parts and work sufaces clean. Remember clean, clean, clean! | ||
| − | === | + | === Skill level === |
How much mechanical and automotive skill/experience/ability is required? | How much mechanical and automotive skill/experience/ability is required? | ||
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The main thing to keep in mind is that there are close tolerances to check and a certain order of steps to follow. Just take the tme to research your engine and, above all, ask questions when necessary. | The main thing to keep in mind is that there are close tolerances to check and a certain order of steps to follow. Just take the tme to research your engine and, above all, ask questions when necessary. | ||
| − | Deciding on an engine | + | == Deciding on an engine == |
| − | + | ||
What are your needs? What's the application? How much can you afford? These are the things you need to decide ahead of time, otherwise you might end up with one of those unfinished projects just wasting away in the backyard. | What are your needs? What's the application? How much can you afford? These are the things you need to decide ahead of time, otherwise you might end up with one of those unfinished projects just wasting away in the backyard. | ||
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===Junkyards=== | ===Junkyards=== | ||
| − | Junkyards can be a | + | Junkyards can be a great resource for locating missing car parts or locating an engine for your hot rod. Junkyards are full of cars from the 1970's and 80's waiting to donate their mechanical heart. Junkyard shopping might be a good idea in order to find the best prices in town. A majority of the cars built during the past 3 decades came equipped with a V8 engine. Now a lot of these old cars are forgotten and thrown into junkyards. |
| − | Most | + | Most Chevy, Dodge and Ford trucks from the 70's and 80's came equipped with carbureted (non-EFI) V8's perfectly usable to power a hot rod. However, junkyards can be a very rough places in which to work. Time is going to be needed to remove the engine, and all tools and equipment have to be brought from home. It might take several hours before the engine comes loose and out of its nest. Each car has different places where parts bolt onto and where the engine connects to the frame, and each bolt has to be removed. Most of these cars have been sitting there for a while, so be prepared to wrestle with rusted, stripped and broken bolts, layers of caked-on grease and dirt on the undercarriage and oil pan, and a lot of rusty sheetmetal. |
Care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit. | Care should be taken when selecting an engine. Engine size, width, and length should all be taken into account. Depending on which car the engine is destined for, measurements are crucial to determining the fit. | ||
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=== Removal === | === Removal === | ||
| − | How to safely and properly pull | + | How to safely and properly pull an engine. |
<em>Engine hoist -- A device for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and fuel lines that you forgot to disconnect.</em> | <em>Engine hoist -- A device for testing the tensile strength of ground straps and fuel lines that you forgot to disconnect.</em> | ||
| − | *If you have a digital camera | + | *If you have a digital camera, Now would be a good time to take many good photos before you pull it down, for Installation reference,i.e. brackets and wiring. For more information on documenting your project, see: [[How to document your project]]. |
| − | *Disconnect the battery | + | *Disconnect the battery. |
| − | *Use baggies for your nuts and | + | *Use baggies for ALL your nuts and bolts, and label them. |
| − | *Remove the hood | + | *Remove the hood. |
*Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment | *Be sure to drain any fluids beforehand, to keep from making a mess, and to be friendly to the environment | ||
*Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of coolant properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the radiator, but if you are careful, it is not necessary. | *Remove the fan, fan shroud, and water hoses (drain and dispose of coolant properly; it's poisonous to humans and animals). You may also want to remove the radiator, but if you are careful, it is not necessary. | ||
*Disconnect fuel lines, vacuum lines (mark termination and make a written list), wiring (mark termination and make a written list), belts, and pulleys that may be in the way. | *Disconnect fuel lines, vacuum lines (mark termination and make a written list), wiring (mark termination and make a written list), belts, and pulleys that may be in the way. | ||
| − | *Place jack under the | + | *Place a jack under the transmission to keep it upright in the vehicle, unless you are removing it as well. |
*If you plan on removing the transmission, don't forget any linkages, backup lamp switches, neutral safety switches (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the speedometer cable (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape. | *If you plan on removing the transmission, don't forget any linkages, backup lamp switches, neutral safety switches (some are transmission-mounted), modulator valve vacuum lines, TCC control wiring, and the speedometer cable (or speed transducer and wires). Cover any holes with tape. | ||
*Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the driveshaft. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out. | *Fit a plastic bag over the tailshaft, and duct tape it after you remove the driveshaft. This will keep residual oil in, and dirt out. | ||
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*Use some type of lift ring on the engine, such as a plate that bolts to where the carburetor was. For easier engine removal, the [http://www.myks-tools.com/ Engine Hoist Pivot Plate] has been recommended. | *Use some type of lift ring on the engine, such as a plate that bolts to where the carburetor was. For easier engine removal, the [http://www.myks-tools.com/ Engine Hoist Pivot Plate] has been recommended. | ||
*Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage. | *Be sure to use padded fender protectors; a strike from ring gear teeth can do serious body and fender damage. | ||
| − | *Jack | + | *Jack engine up slightly, and remove the bolts to the motor mounts and the transmission bell-housing (unless you are removing the transmission also). |
=== Transportation === | === Transportation === | ||
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Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. | Before you start taking things off of your engine there are a few items you want to have on hand so you can start and finish with few stops and starts. | ||
You will need an engine stand. Putting the engine on a stand is the safest and fastest way to dissemble an engine. | You will need an engine stand. Putting the engine on a stand is the safest and fastest way to dissemble an engine. | ||
| − | You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not loose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 | + | You will need baggies to put all of your nuts and bolts into so you do not loose any of them. Make sure to label the baggies. Some like to use a metal coffee can with some 1/8th inch holes poked in the bottom and sides, to clean parts with prior to putting them in the baggies. This will allow you to rinse the dirt and grime off all the fasteners very fast and you do not have to worry about any of them falling out into the solvent bath. A can of WD-40 or something like it to be used on the rusted fasteners. It is a good idea to have a bunch of clean rags. Some of these engines can be DIRTY and if you keep your tools clean as you go, you will not waste time washing your hands. I would also like to take a few pictures of the engine from all angles. Then when you are putting things back together you have a reference photo to figure out just where that bracket goes. |
The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds. Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternater,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later. Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can. If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburator in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine. | The first items that come off of an engine I am going to rebuild are the exhaust manifolds. Then take off all the brackets holding the A/C compressor, alternater,power steering pump, and smog pump. Then take the distributor out. I wrap a clean rag around the bottom end of the distributor and then put it into a zip-lock plastic bag. I can then clean this later. Now for the carburetor or fuel injection or throttle body. For the injectors I put them into plastic bags. Again when it comes time to put new "O"-rings on the injectors I can work on each, one at a time, without getting them dinged up in the fastener can. If the engine has a carburetor do not turn it upside down unless you plan on installing a rebuild kit on it also. Any "crud" that has settled to the bottom of the carburetor fuel bowl will become lodged in places you do not want dirt or rust, so keep it right-side up and again wrap a clean rag around it and then pop it into a plastic bag. I do not like to keep the carburator in the garage all wrapped up like this so I put it in the storage shed with the gas cans and things. If you are working on an engine with a throttle body just put the unit in a plastic bag for now. At a later time you can put in new "O" rings. You just don't need all these parts in your way until you start to reassemble the engine. | ||
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What will the engine be used for? This will be the determing factor on how much you're going to spend. In either case, whether it's a stock replacement swap or a race engine, there are a few things that should be done. | What will the engine be used for? This will be the determing factor on how much you're going to spend. In either case, whether it's a stock replacement swap or a race engine, there are a few things that should be done. | ||
| − | #Have your block acid dipped so when you put it back together you will have a nice clean block to work with | + | #Have your block acid dipped so when you put it back together you will have a nice clean block to work with. |
#Always have it sonic tested, this way you know if the engine block is even worth using. | #Always have it sonic tested, this way you know if the engine block is even worth using. | ||
#Have your cylinder walls checked out for roundness, this will prolong the life of your piston rings and life of your engine. | #Have your cylinder walls checked out for roundness, this will prolong the life of your piston rings and life of your engine. | ||
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