First paint job
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(→How to mix and spray Acrylic Enamel) |
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== How to mix and spray Acrylic Enamel == | == How to mix and spray Acrylic Enamel == | ||
| + | When spraying acrylic enamel or any paint for that matter '''always read the can'''. Acrylic enamel is a strong paint that is used a lot in the fleet industry. | ||
| + | The start of any good paint job not including bodywork is a good sealer. They now have sealers that are color tint able in a urethane, which will take enamel topcoats if the directions are followed. The color tint able sealers help in coverage and if you do get one of those horrible rock chips they do not show nearly as bad. When starting the sealing processes it is always a good idea to use an epoxy or acid etch primer. The acid etch primer will hold out to rust a lot better then an epoxy does (i.e. I used it on the bare metal of my 70 nova did not spray the car for almost six months with only the acid etch on the car and I did not even get any facial rust, that came through, I have not had that good of an experience with epoxy sprayed it on my Buick and facial rust came through in a month). | ||
| + | The solid colors can be shot using the '''directions on the can'''. Use the hardener specific to the temp that you are going to be shooting the paint in. If you feel comfortable spraying use a hardener that is for a hotter temp, this will help the paint to flow out better. But if you are not comfortable spraying it will flow all the way to the floor. Something that I was taught was to use water and spray it on a vertical panel when you can spray the water on the panel with out running the water you are getting more comfortable (when spraying it always make sure that it is even overlapping each time so that you do not get dry spots). | ||
| + | Spraying metallic is a little different then spraying a solid color, they will model, and tiger strip and do all kinds of unwanted things. Remember anytime that the paint moves the metallic do as well so if they run you will get the metallic all in one spot and this does not look good. With metallic always use the suggested temp range unlike the solid colors. When finished reduce the paint that you are using 1:1 with a reducer that is specified for the paint. This helps to set the metallic so that you do not get modeling and tiger strips. | ||
| + | The best thing that you can do is to '''read the back of the can''' this will tell you the times that are needed in-between coats, dry times and the maximum amount of time between coats. If these are not followed you will get solvent popping and in the long run the potential for pealing paint. If you would like even more durability they also have clear coats for enamels. For the cost enamels are a good paint but the urethanes are a better product, they are starting to get affordable urethane paints now so do not rule them out. | ||
== How to mix and spray Urethane Enamel == | == How to mix and spray Urethane Enamel == | ||
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