The FREE T Bucket plans
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*23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others. | *23-25 or 26-27 "lakester" bucket with exposed fuel tank on naked framerails in the back, and there are others. | ||
| − | REMEMBER: MOCK IT UP, DON'T "FOCK" IT UP! Build your first frame effort from 2X4 lumber and nuts&bolts. Set it up on jackstands with your body on board and your frontend assembly, engine/trans and rearend underneath. TaKE YOUR TIME, DON'T START CUTTING THAT STEEL UNTIL YOU'VE GOT A REAL FEEL FOR WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | REMEMBER: MOCK IT UP, DON'T "FOCK" IT UP! Build your first frame effort from 2X4 lumber and nuts&bolts. Set it up on jackstands with your body on board and your frontend assembly, engine/trans and rearend underneath. TaKE YOUR TIME, DON'T START CUTTING THAT STEEL UNTIL YOU'VE GOT A REAL FEEL FOR WHAT YOU'RE TRYING TO ACCOMPLISH." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
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==Frame== | ==Frame== | ||
"Where you have essentially two body groups 23-25 and 26-27, frame designs are all over the map. Many early Buckets were built on modified stock T frames or Model A frames. Others were built on early Chevy rails, or even channel iron frames. The "modern" T is usually sitting on a 2X3 or 2X4 ,.120-.180 wall thickness rectangular box tubing frame with a 2.5-3" tubular front cross member. | "Where you have essentially two body groups 23-25 and 26-27, frame designs are all over the map. Many early Buckets were built on modified stock T frames or Model A frames. Others were built on early Chevy rails, or even channel iron frames. The "modern" T is usually sitting on a 2X3 or 2X4 ,.120-.180 wall thickness rectangular box tubing frame with a 2.5-3" tubular front cross member. | ||
| − | Some frame makers make their frames one width front to back like a stock T frame, others have a frame that tapers from the rear to the front similar to a Model A frame. And others have other ideas." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | Some frame makers make their frames one width front to back like a stock T frame, others have a frame that tapers from the rear to the front similar to a Model A frame. And others have other ideas." Excerpts from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod |
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==Front suspension== | ==Front suspension== | ||
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===Coils & shocks=== | ===Coils & shocks=== | ||
| − | "Don't do it on the front of your car!! DON'T DO IT!! No matter that Car Craft did this on their project car. Ugly is ugly and almost nothing is uglier that those nasty towers on the front of the frame and coil springs and cups on the axle and shocks running up the middle...YAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! No chrome, no paint, nothing can hide this mistake....don't do it! There are too many other options that at least look good." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | "Don't do it on the front of your car!! DON'T DO IT!! No matter that Car Craft did this on their project car. Ugly is ugly and almost nothing is uglier that those nasty towers on the front of the frame and coil springs and cups on the axle and shocks running up the middle...YAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!! No chrome, no paint, nothing can hide this mistake....don't do it! There are too many other options that at least look good." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
=== Coil Over's=== | === Coil Over's=== | ||
"If done right, this is a clean attractive good riding suspension for the front of any roadster. | "If done right, this is a clean attractive good riding suspension for the front of any roadster. | ||
If done wrong....well it can be ugly, it can be nasty looking, and it can be rough riding. | If done wrong....well it can be ugly, it can be nasty looking, and it can be rough riding. | ||
| − | Only drawback is expense. Most manufacturers will allow you to return springs if they are too stiff for a softer set....one time." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | Only drawback is expense. Most manufacturers will allow you to return springs if they are too stiff for a softer set....one time." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)=== | ===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)=== | ||
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The original springs are 10-12 leaf units. Unless you are running a big block or early heavy engine you'll be best served if you experiment with the number of leaves in the front spring. Keep the main leaf and number 2, removing the odd number springs(3.5.7.9 etc)to reach your best number. YES, it is a pain in the neck to remove, dismantle, remove leaves, reassemble and reinstall the spring, but it works. Try starting with a six leaf spring, main,2,4,6,8,10 to begin with. That could save you a few steps. | The original springs are 10-12 leaf units. Unless you are running a big block or early heavy engine you'll be best served if you experiment with the number of leaves in the front spring. Keep the main leaf and number 2, removing the odd number springs(3.5.7.9 etc)to reach your best number. YES, it is a pain in the neck to remove, dismantle, remove leaves, reassemble and reinstall the spring, but it works. Try starting with a six leaf spring, main,2,4,6,8,10 to begin with. That could save you a few steps. | ||
What you are looking for when finished is a front end which deflects when you put your foot on the spring perch and push down. NOT, a situation where you have to stand on the perch and jump up and down to get movement. | What you are looking for when finished is a front end which deflects when you put your foot on the spring perch and push down. NOT, a situation where you have to stand on the perch and jump up and down to get movement. | ||
| − | Always use tubular shocks, old name airplane shocks, not friction shocks, IF you really plan on driving your car." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | Always use tubular shocks, old name airplane shocks, not friction shocks, IF you really plan on driving your car." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
===1/4 elliptical=== | ===1/4 elliptical=== | ||
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=== Coil Over's=== | === Coil Over's=== | ||
"Again, an attractive and simple setup to install. Experimentation with spring rates may be required. Cost is most prohibitive feature of this choice. | "Again, an attractive and simple setup to install. Experimentation with spring rates may be required. Cost is most prohibitive feature of this choice. | ||
| − | This IS the most popular modern T suspension setup for the rear suspension." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | This IS the most popular modern T suspension setup for the rear suspension." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)=== | ===Transverse Leaf Spring (Buggy spring)=== | ||
"Based on the early Ford suspension, this is the "classic" bucket suspension. T springs (the most desirable being the very early taper-leaf units) and Model A springs (the most desirable being the roadster springs) are often called "high arch" springs, you know why. | "Based on the early Ford suspension, this is the "classic" bucket suspension. T springs (the most desirable being the very early taper-leaf units) and Model A springs (the most desirable being the roadster springs) are often called "high arch" springs, you know why. | ||
Again, to have the best buggy setup the spring should be mounted under tension as the original Ford design. The rear perches whether mounted on top, to the front, or to the rear of the rear axle should be 49.5" apart for a Model A spring and 48.5" apart for a Model T spring. | Again, to have the best buggy setup the spring should be mounted under tension as the original Ford design. The rear perches whether mounted on top, to the front, or to the rear of the rear axle should be 49.5" apart for a Model A spring and 48.5" apart for a Model T spring. | ||
| − | As with the front springs you'll probably end up with a 5-7 leaf spring rather than the 10-14 leaf assembly you start with." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | As with the front springs you'll probably end up with a 5-7 leaf spring rather than the 10-14 leaf assembly you start with." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
===1/4 elliptical=== | ===1/4 elliptical=== | ||
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==Steering assembly== | ==Steering assembly== | ||
| − | "The two things any car has to do for safety and survival are STEER and STOP!!" Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | "The two things any car has to do for safety and survival are STEER and STOP!!" Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
Use the currently available Corvair or Vega boxes, Speedway sells brand new Corvair reveresed boxes that are safe and ready to go. They also have the Vega box for cross steering. | Use the currently available Corvair or Vega boxes, Speedway sells brand new Corvair reveresed boxes that are safe and ready to go. They also have the Vega box for cross steering. | ||
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You'll want a nice 5/8-3/4" piece of plywood cut to fit the firewall of your roadster on the inside. This gives you a nice solid mounting surface for your electrics (fuse box, relays, etc.) and accelerator pedal. | You'll want a nice 5/8-3/4" piece of plywood cut to fit the firewall of your roadster on the inside. This gives you a nice solid mounting surface for your electrics (fuse box, relays, etc.) and accelerator pedal. | ||
| − | You may want to run a stringer of wood just inside the lower rocker panel where the body drops over the frame as a stiffener." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | You may want to run a stringer of wood just inside the lower rocker panel where the body drops over the frame as a stiffener." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
==Hinge Fabrication== | ==Hinge Fabrication== | ||
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The coil spring seat assembly in your car and a working suspension on your car will give you as close to that "Cadillac" ride as you can get with a short wheelbase light car like the T and make those long trips to rod runs not only enjoyable but desirable. Your wife or girlfriend will appreciate that comfort too, and there are rewards for that consideration, know-what-i-mean-Vern? | The coil spring seat assembly in your car and a working suspension on your car will give you as close to that "Cadillac" ride as you can get with a short wheelbase light car like the T and make those long trips to rod runs not only enjoyable but desirable. Your wife or girlfriend will appreciate that comfort too, and there are rewards for that consideration, know-what-i-mean-Vern? | ||
| − | Oh yeah, about seat inserts, those fiberglass inner wall and seat and floor moulded pieces that drop in and "save you time and money". DON'T DO IT! Unless you are the guy whose butt was used to determine the size and shape of that piece, it will be a mistake. These are usually moulded with a division between the seat depressions. This is because they need those ribs for structural strength, but YOU don't need 'em because space in a bucket is at a premium." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod | + | Oh yeah, about seat inserts, those fiberglass inner wall and seat and floor moulded pieces that drop in and "save you time and money". DON'T DO IT! Unless you are the guy whose butt was used to determine the size and shape of that piece, it will be a mistake. These are usually moulded with a division between the seat depressions. This is because they need those ribs for structural strength, but YOU don't need 'em because space in a bucket is at a premium." Excerpt from soon-to-be-released bucket book by Pasadenahotrod. |
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====Modifying other seats to fit==== | ====Modifying other seats to fit==== | ||
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The little T doesn't lend itself well to bucket seats as most readily availlable ones are too wide for the T body." | The little T doesn't lend itself well to bucket seats as most readily availlable ones are too wide for the T body." | ||
| − | Excerpt from soon to be released book from Pasadenahotrod | + | Excerpt from soon to be released book from Pasadenahotrod. |
Remember that you do not want to sit to high in the bucket. I have seen seats so overly padded thatthe drivers butt is just below the top line of the bucket. It can look like you're falling out and is also very uncomfortable trying it stay in going around corners! The lower your seating position the better. It will give you more protection in the body and more room around your feet and legs. It will also keep your head below the windshield! | Remember that you do not want to sit to high in the bucket. I have seen seats so overly padded thatthe drivers butt is just below the top line of the bucket. It can look like you're falling out and is also very uncomfortable trying it stay in going around corners! The lower your seating position the better. It will give you more protection in the body and more room around your feet and legs. It will also keep your head below the windshield! | ||
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