Window removal and installation
m (→Installing the new window) |
(Cleanup) |
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*Extractor(very expensive, but pretty much the one tool for any glass) | *Extractor(very expensive, but pretty much the one tool for any glass) | ||
| − | == | + | ==Windshield removal techniques== |
| − | + | ===Rubber seal type=== | |
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On some older cars and even some trucks, it's really not hard to remove a front or back windshield. Many people suggest using a knife and just cutting the old seal which holds the glass. This runs the risk of the user getting cut when the knife slips. | On some older cars and even some trucks, it's really not hard to remove a front or back windshield. Many people suggest using a knife and just cutting the old seal which holds the glass. This runs the risk of the user getting cut when the knife slips. | ||
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PS. This removal method can also be used to remove a back (rear) windshield. | PS. This removal method can also be used to remove a back (rear) windshield. | ||
| − | + | ===Factory glued-in glass=== | |
Materials: | Materials: | ||
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#Handles made from pipe/conduit. | #Handles made from pipe/conduit. | ||
#SHARP utility knife. | #SHARP utility knife. | ||
| − | # | + | #Needle nose pliers (with cutter preferable) |
To start, cut off a length of wire about 3-4 times as long as your window is vertically, measuring from bottom to top of glass. Remove any interior trim if possible, to make things easier. | To start, cut off a length of wire about 3-4 times as long as your window is vertically, measuring from bottom to top of glass. Remove any interior trim if possible, to make things easier. | ||
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Trim out the excess urethane in the channel the same way, so just a thin layer remains, and no big chunks. Some people like to leave the majority in place, I trim as much of the old out as I can and add new urethane, so I can be SURE it will seal all the way around. Any bare metal spots in the channel should be primed/painted of course, and rust removed as much as possible. If the channel has rot in it then the bad metal should be cut out and a new piece made up and welded in it's place. Pull the headliner before welding, and keep an extinguisher handy. | Trim out the excess urethane in the channel the same way, so just a thin layer remains, and no big chunks. Some people like to leave the majority in place, I trim as much of the old out as I can and add new urethane, so I can be SURE it will seal all the way around. Any bare metal spots in the channel should be primed/painted of course, and rust removed as much as possible. If the channel has rot in it then the bad metal should be cut out and a new piece made up and welded in it's place. Pull the headliner before welding, and keep an extinguisher handy. | ||
| − | + | ==Side window== | |
On some vehicles the side glass is bolted or clipped to the track assembly. On other vehicles there are rivets holding it in place. In either case, either remove bolts or clips or carefully drill out the rivets in order to remove a side window. Often the track assembly has an upper limiter which must be removed to allow removal of the side window. If you are working with an older vehicle and have no replacement glass to install, make a template out of masonite the same thickness as the glass. Bring your finished template into a glass shop and they will make you a replacement glass which you can install. Clean the window channel of all dirt and rust. Install new base tape and slowly work the glass into the channel. Keep the window vertical while tapping with an oak block and rubber mallet. Install new vertical channel tracks and replace the inner and outer weather strips for a sound-and-water-tight installation. | On some vehicles the side glass is bolted or clipped to the track assembly. On other vehicles there are rivets holding it in place. In either case, either remove bolts or clips or carefully drill out the rivets in order to remove a side window. Often the track assembly has an upper limiter which must be removed to allow removal of the side window. If you are working with an older vehicle and have no replacement glass to install, make a template out of masonite the same thickness as the glass. Bring your finished template into a glass shop and they will make you a replacement glass which you can install. Clean the window channel of all dirt and rust. Install new base tape and slowly work the glass into the channel. Keep the window vertical while tapping with an oak block and rubber mallet. Install new vertical channel tracks and replace the inner and outer weather strips for a sound-and-water-tight installation. | ||
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| + | ==What to do after removal== | ||
After removal, the windshield and side windows should be stored in a safe place where they will not be damaged. If there is glue present on the windshield you may want to spend some time cleaning it off so it does not have to be done right before installation. | After removal, the windshield and side windows should be stored in a safe place where they will not be damaged. If there is glue present on the windshield you may want to spend some time cleaning it off so it does not have to be done right before installation. | ||
| − | == Installing the new window == | + | ==Installing the new window== |
| − | + | ===Windshield using rubber seal=== | |
You will need: | You will need: | ||
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Sometimes when pulling the rope the rubber does not pull inside the flange. The factory tool to pull the missed spot inside was made from a straight blade screwdriver. The flat portion was cut off then 1/4 inch ball was turned on the end. A 2 inch long taper was turned from the neck at the ball back towards the handle, then it was polished with fine sandpaper. The end was then heated and bent with about a 1 inch L leg. Use lube or a soap solution and work the ball end under the rubber and pull it out without tearing it. | Sometimes when pulling the rope the rubber does not pull inside the flange. The factory tool to pull the missed spot inside was made from a straight blade screwdriver. The flat portion was cut off then 1/4 inch ball was turned on the end. A 2 inch long taper was turned from the neck at the ball back towards the handle, then it was polished with fine sandpaper. The end was then heated and bent with about a 1 inch L leg. Use lube or a soap solution and work the ball end under the rubber and pull it out without tearing it. | ||
| − | == Installing flush mounted glass == | + | ==Installing flush mounted glass== |
| − | + | You can install windshield glass in most any car that had a windshield frame or rubber molding using the S-10 filler strip and an adhesive as long as the pinchweld is behind the glass. You should always use a urethane sealant, never use silicon sealant. Silicon will actually corrode the pinch weld over time, and is not "rated" for this kind of installation. The windshield also performs a very important safety feature, which is the retention of occupants in the vehicle in the case of a crash. | |
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| − | You can install windshield glass in most any car that had a windshield frame or rubber molding using the S-10 filler strip and an adhesive as long as the | + | |
The basic procedure is to get your pinchweld all cleaned up and any voids filled. If there were slots or notches for hinges etc they need to be filled. Obviously rust and loose paint needs to be removed. A coat of epoxy primer is a good idea. | The basic procedure is to get your pinchweld all cleaned up and any voids filled. If there were slots or notches for hinges etc they need to be filled. Obviously rust and loose paint needs to be removed. A coat of epoxy primer is a good idea. | ||
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Have your glass cut so that you have about 1/4 gap between the edge of the glass and the windshield opening. No more than 17/64" and no less than 15/64" gap all around. Always trial fit the filler strip before you do the install to make sure it isn't too tight or loose. Too tight and the glass may crack or pop out during installation and too loose and you will have gaps. | Have your glass cut so that you have about 1/4 gap between the edge of the glass and the windshield opening. No more than 17/64" and no less than 15/64" gap all around. Always trial fit the filler strip before you do the install to make sure it isn't too tight or loose. Too tight and the glass may crack or pop out during installation and too loose and you will have gaps. | ||
| − | You can paint a uniform band around the edge of the glass with Dow | + | You can paint a uniform band around the edge of the glass with Dow Betaprime 5500 pinchweld primer. This material will create a dark band around the edge of the glass similar to the baked-on ceramic frit you see on most all of the newer cars. Mask off 1/2"to 3/4" uniformly around the edge so the glue line will look good from the outside. Mask off inside of the frit line so as to have a nice line to cut the setting adhesive to. Tape off the entire inside of the glass to protect it from scratching and excess glue. |
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| + | Position the glass so that it is flush with the body using at least six rubber setting blocks; one in each corner and two in the middle. You want the glass to sit evenly on these blocks. You can maintain your 1/4" gap with some scraps of filler-strip or wooden spacers, removing them as you install the strip. | ||
| − | + | ===Once the windshield is positioned=== | |
| + | *When you install the filler strip use super weather strip adhesive on at least one side of the strip. Glue the ends with super glue. Once the filler strip is installed back fill the space behind the windshield with urethane adhesive, tool it so it looks nice and has no voids. You should have at least 3 full size tubes of adhesive ready for your install. Let it cure and you are done. | ||
| − | + | {{Note1}}Optional step: You can dry fit the filler-strip. You can make a butt joint in the middle of the strip at the bottom of the window. Try to not miter corners unless you absolutely have to because it is very hard to keep the edges down. The strip can be notched on the inside of a corner to make a tighter bend. Practice making corners on a scrap to see how it works. Once the strip has been dry fit you can install it permanently. | |
| − | That is a fairly simple set of instructions, there may be other things that need to be considered such as what to do about your dash and header panel, etc. Is the windshield 2 pieces? this may require a center seam. | + | *That is a fairly simple set of instructions, there may be other things that need to be considered such as what to do about your dash and header panel, etc. Is the windshield 2 pieces? this may require a center seam. |
Most of the better glass shops will be able to get you the required supplies and may give you some better specific instructions for your particular application. | Most of the better glass shops will be able to get you the required supplies and may give you some better specific instructions for your particular application. | ||
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