Buffing your newly-finished paint

A lot of people don't think of the total value of a good wetsand job. It's only when they start buffing it that they find out it's back to the drawing board (usually, they did not do enough wetsanding). So let me show you guys and gals how to proceed in the process everyone calls wet sanding. THIS is the way to get a SHOW FINISH. Owners who have earned many show awards for their cars and bikes will say BLOCK until YOU DROP is the name of the game! Many people use other methods, but the (english type)is what I use.  

The method requires the vehicle panels to be straight and solid in the first place and that the paint has been applied correctly. Start with a fender, side and flat parts and inspect them to see how much you must re-flatten. Cover all sharp corners with 1/2 inch masking tape and use 1000 grit wet/dry paper to begin. This is considering everything is in very good shape, clear is flat, color is right, etc. I use a 5 gal. bucket with one shot of dish soap, then blend it with luke-warm water and sand until the surface is completely flat. I use a 3m squeegee to clean the area, then stand back a little to inspect the sanded surface and determine if any shine is present. If it's flat, go to the next area. If the surface is still unsanded, continue  re-sanding the area until a semi-gloss, flat surface is achieved. The finer the paper, the more semi-gloss it will be. Continue doing this until the entire car is done with 1000. You will have to repeat this routine with every grit-level of paper you use!!! Now you will do the whole car in 1500, 2000, 2500, 3000 (yes there is a 3000 grit!!!). This is the way I get noticed by the judges. They see the finish and it's  right! It will take anywhere from one week to 2 1/2 weeks to get it right. Then you can buff it out with ease using light pressure because the surface is pre-polished and it only takes a bit of buffing to do the rest. So go for it. The only thing is, you must take the time to do it right!..(bourne51)........