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− | ==Miscellaneous==
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− | *To paint rims without scratching them:
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− | #Mount the tire on the rim, but don't fill it up with air.
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− | #Mask the tire with paper, stuffing it in between the tire and the rim.
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− | #Paint the rim. You can paint around the back edge of the rim, along with the rest of it.
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− | #Remove the masking and inflate the tire. It will look like the tire was off the rim when it was painted.
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− | *To clean foam buffing pads while using them, use a cheap paint brush with the bristles cut off about halfway for stiffness.
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− | *Allow plenty of air circulation around your air compressor. Put it outside if possible, or point a fan at it.
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− | *Make paper templates for easy cutting and drilling. For more information and photos, see Brian Martin's article posted on the Hotrodders Bulletin Board: [http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/tip-day-13-a-71092.html Templates for accurate cutting and drilling].
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− | *Before installing weld-on parts (core supports, quarter panels, rear panels, etc.), scuff the inside areas. It's easier to do this before parts are installed.
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− | *For doing small touchups without ending up with a huge repair area from sanding, cut sanding discs down to size.
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− | *To remove creases and dents from plastic bumpers, heat them with a heat gun, and work the area while it's hot. A wallpaper seam roller can be used to work dents out from the back side of the bumper, and a window screen bead installer can be used to push creases down from the front. Flex filler can be used for finishing.
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− | *When chemical stripping parts with heavy buildup:
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− | #Coat the panel heavily with stripper.
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− | #Cover with a cheap plastic drop cloth, or plastic wrap.
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− | #Let it stay covered at least an hour, but as long as overnight.
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− | #The stripper penetrates deeper when it won't dry out, and the plastic wrap makes it easier to remove.
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− | *If you want an entire part painted, finish it before installing it. Then, touch it up after it's been welded on. Although, this has been argued to be inefficient on a production basis, especially for parts that are not visible, and have been e-coated for adequate protection.
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− | *Be creative when sourcing patch metal. Potential sources include:
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− | **old refrigerators
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− | **old air conditioning units
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− | **old computer cases
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− | **fenders, roofs, or other body parts from vehicles
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− | *Use florescent "drop" lights, rather than incandescent. They create less heat, last longer, and are more resistant to shocks than incandescent bulbs.
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− | *Save old magnets that are being thrown away (from old car speakers, or refrigerator/freezer sealing strips, computer hard drives, etc.). They have many uses:
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− | #Place magnets over masking material to keep from blowing around.
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− | #Use magnets to hold fire blankets in place while welding.
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− | #Use a magnet in a plastic bag to pick up nails and screws. When done, turn the bag inside out; the metal parts are in the bag, and the magnet stays clean.
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− | #Put large magnets along the outside of a tool box, and tools can be suspended from the inside of the box.
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− | *Oil filter shells can be used for making recessed tail lights. They come in many different sizes, and the larger ones for commercial trucks may be especially useful.
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− | *To make a custom body grommet, use a section of vacuum hose that's been split down the middle with a razor or similar tool. A photo of this can be seen here: [http://hotrodders.com/gallery/showphoto.php/photo/17678/size/big/cat/500/page/ Hotrodders Photo Gallery].
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− | *To pull weld studs easier than the pullers can that come with the cheap weld stud guns, weld a pair of vicegrips to a regular dent puller. They can be tack welded to a screw-on accessory and used as a new attachment.
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| ==Questionable or disputed tips== | | ==Questionable or disputed tips== |