Fat-fendered Ford battery tray

In most of the older pre-50's cars and trucks, the battery was located under the floor boards or mounted in a tight location in the engine compartment. The battery used then was usually a small 8X10X10 six volt battery or a long type 4X16X10 battery. Access to the battery was usually limited and a best, very trying to remove or service the battery. Anyone rebuilding a car of this vintage will often opt for a bigger 12 volt battery which offers more CCA (cold cranking amps). But where do you put it? Generally, the 'new' battery is installed in the trunk or mounted somewhere under the frame and 'long' cables are then run up to the front engine compartment to the starter and fuse panel. Here is an alternative placement for the battery that is not only close to the starter and fuse panel, but uses up some of that dead wasted space we never think about. This is the large area behind the Fat Fenders and front wheels of most 40's vehicles. A properly installed battery and tray can be installed in this location and function just like an under hood or in-trunk battery.

In most of the older pre-50's cars and trucks, the battery was located under the floor boards or mounted in a tight location in the engine compartment. The battery used then was usually a small 8X10X10 six volt battery or a long type 4X16X10 battery. Access to the battery was usually limited and a best, very trying to remove or service the battery. Anyone rebuilding a car of this vintage will often opt for a bigger 12 volt battery which offers more CCA (cold cranking amps). But where do you put it? Generally, the 'new' battery is installed in the trunk or mounted somewhere under the frame and 'long' cables are then run up to the front engine compartment to the starter and fuse panel. Here is an alternative placement for the battery that is not only close to the starter and fuse panel, but uses up some of that dead wasted space we never think about. This is the large area behind the Fat Fenders and front wheels of most 40's vehicles. A properly installed battery and tray can be installed in this location and function just like an under hood or in-trunk battery.

Begin by taking a small cardboard box much the same size as your battery that you will be using. It is easier to handle then a regular 40 pound battery with clothing-eating acid spewing from it when dropped. Even using a box and inch or so larger will give you additional clearances for cables and hold downs. Place the box against the frame area and try to imagine what kind of bracket you will have to build to get it to stay there. You can use duct tape to secure the box in place while you play with flexible steel strapping (usually found on packing crates)that you can shape into 90 degree bends to hold up the box (battery).  

Begin by taking a small cardboard box much the same size as your battery that you will be using. It is easier to handle then a regular 40 pound battery with clothing-eating acid spewing from it when dropped. Even using a box and inch or so larger will give you additional clearances for cables and hold downs. Place the box against the frame area and try to imagine what kind of bracket you will have to build to get it to stay there. You can use duct tape to secure the box in place while you play with flexible steel strapping (usually found on packing crates)that you can shape into 90 degree bends to hold up the box (battery).  

To utilize the vertical side of the tray, a cutout can be made and bent outward using to 45 degree bends and adding a hole for a mounting bolt to make an offset for a mounting location to the frame. If laid out correctly, all three sides plus the bottom can be cut out of one piece of flat stock and bent to form the final battery tray. See pictures.

To utilize the vertical side of the tray, a cutout can be made and bent outward using to 45 degree bends and adding a hole for a mounting bolt to make an offset for a mounting location to the frame. If laid out correctly, all three sides plus the bottom can be cut out of one piece of flat stock and bent to form the final battery tray. See pictures.

I have made these trays out of 1/8 steel plate backed with 1/4 angle iron and flat stock, as well as stainless steel and aluminum. What you use will depend on what you have around and the equipment that you have to bend it and fasten it together. The box that you see here was made using a six inch vise and angle iron to make the bends that you see here. Stainless steel makes a nice bright maintainance free battery tray. Aluminum is easy to bend and drill, but requires TIG to weld on. Combinations of any of these metals can readily be used and will make a nice strong tray.

I have made these trays out of 1/8 steel plate backed with 1/4 angle iron and flat stock, as well as stainless steel and aluminum. What you use will depend on what you have around and the equipment that you have to bend it and fasten it together. The box that you see here was made using a six inch vise and angle iron to make the bends that you see here. Stainless steel makes a nice bright maintainance free battery tray. Aluminum is easy to bend and drill, but requires TIG to weld on. Combinations of any of these metals can readily be used and will make a nice strong tray.

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