How to find cheap parts

Jump to: navigation, search
(Know your quality brands, know your junk)
Line 1: Line 1:
A lot of people ask me how I get such cheap parts.  Firstly, I'm poor, so I research parts for three days sometimes before I find the best one at the lowest price.  Lack of funds causes you to do all kinds of creative shopping.  So I thought I'd share some secrets... even though they're not secrets, just suggestions.
 
 
 
 
== Be realistic there, speed racer ==
 
== Be realistic there, speed racer ==
 
 
I will never fault anyone for using the best possible part for their vehicle, but one of the first tricks to saving money on parts is only buying what you need.  In my experience, the most commonly messed-up parts choice is brake components.  I see people all the time buying the race-type brake pads and the cross-drilled rotors in order to get that last 2% more braking power for their SUV that is driven back and forth to work in rush hour traffic.  Its a big mismatch.  Buy parts that suit your actual driving style.  Many times buying upgraded parts will only be a benefit if you are doing ''upgraded'' driving.  Other common money pits are engine oil, gasoline additives, wheels and tires, alternator amperage, and air filters.  Sometimes you need the upgrade, sometimes you don't.
 
I will never fault anyone for using the best possible part for their vehicle, but one of the first tricks to saving money on parts is only buying what you need.  In my experience, the most commonly messed-up parts choice is brake components.  I see people all the time buying the race-type brake pads and the cross-drilled rotors in order to get that last 2% more braking power for their SUV that is driven back and forth to work in rush hour traffic.  Its a big mismatch.  Buy parts that suit your actual driving style.  Many times buying upgraded parts will only be a benefit if you are doing ''upgraded'' driving.  Other common money pits are engine oil, gasoline additives, wheels and tires, alternator amperage, and air filters.  Sometimes you need the upgrade, sometimes you don't.
  
  
 
== Know your quality brands, know your junk ==
 
== Know your quality brands, know your junk ==
 
 
In addition to knowing which type of part you need, its wise to know what brands will offer the most bang for the buck.  Many times there is no need to spend the extra money on the factory original part.  In fact, many factory original parts are pretty pathetic pieces that were supplied to the auto maker by the lowest bidder.  For instance, you might find that Gates belts and hoses are cheaper and better than the original ones that came on your vehicle.  Other times you might find that the economy replacement part is really junk and should be left on the shelf.  Knowing which ones work best is key to maximizing the quality of the parts you get for your money.  One of the best ways to find out which ones work best is to ask the parts dealer... and when I say parts dealer, I don't mean a retail parts-store employee trying to get a bonus for upselling a premium part.  Ask at your wholesaler. [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_find_cheap_parts#The_password_is_.22Undercar..22] (see next section)  Which parts have fewer returns for defects?  Chances are they've handled every brand that comes through the door and they can attest to their quality first-hand.  Asking on forums will get you widely varying results.  On one forum, perhaps someone made a compelling argument for one brand because it worked for him/her, but the truth is somewhat obscured by the opinions of forum members and an inaccurate grasp of their experience.  Does this person have 10 years experience in a shop that specializes in your vehicle, or is it a shade-tree mechanic who just changed their own brakes last week and wants to chime in?
 
In addition to knowing which type of part you need, its wise to know what brands will offer the most bang for the buck.  Many times there is no need to spend the extra money on the factory original part.  In fact, many factory original parts are pretty pathetic pieces that were supplied to the auto maker by the lowest bidder.  For instance, you might find that Gates belts and hoses are cheaper and better than the original ones that came on your vehicle.  Other times you might find that the economy replacement part is really junk and should be left on the shelf.  Knowing which ones work best is key to maximizing the quality of the parts you get for your money.  One of the best ways to find out which ones work best is to ask the parts dealer... and when I say parts dealer, I don't mean a retail parts-store employee trying to get a bonus for upselling a premium part.  Ask at your wholesaler. [http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/wiki/How_to_find_cheap_parts#The_password_is_.22Undercar..22] (see next section)  Which parts have fewer returns for defects?  Chances are they've handled every brand that comes through the door and they can attest to their quality first-hand.  Asking on forums will get you widely varying results.  On one forum, perhaps someone made a compelling argument for one brand because it worked for him/her, but the truth is somewhat obscured by the opinions of forum members and an inaccurate grasp of their experience.  Does this person have 10 years experience in a shop that specializes in your vehicle, or is it a shade-tree mechanic who just changed their own brakes last week and wants to chime in?
  
== The password is "Undercar." ==
+
== The password is "Undercar" ==
 
+
 
Most towns and cities have a wholesaler that goes by the name "something Undercar."  When you go to a shop to have your brakes done, they call up their undercar wholesaler who then delivers parts in a few minutes to an hour.  They of course tack on a huge upcharge and pass that on to you.  Often times these undercar wholesalers also supply your local chain parts stores.  The bigger ones like Auto Zone or Pep Boys typically have their own supply hierarchy, but if the customer bats their eyelashes, often times Manny, Moe, and Jack will call up the undercar wholesaler and see if they can make a buck.
 
Most towns and cities have a wholesaler that goes by the name "something Undercar."  When you go to a shop to have your brakes done, they call up their undercar wholesaler who then delivers parts in a few minutes to an hour.  They of course tack on a huge upcharge and pass that on to you.  Often times these undercar wholesalers also supply your local chain parts stores.  The bigger ones like Auto Zone or Pep Boys typically have their own supply hierarchy, but if the customer bats their eyelashes, often times Manny, Moe, and Jack will call up the undercar wholesaler and see if they can make a buck.
  
Line 25: Line 19:
  
 
== Head for the junkyard ==
 
== Head for the junkyard ==
 
 
I'll be the first to admit to being a tree hugger - not the liberal, latte-sipping, beverly hills kind, but the kind who just sees no need for waste.  Many parts can be purchased for pennies on the dollar at the local recycling yard.  Not only does it save you money, but it saves another part from being manufactured new.  Why buy a new wheel when there are 500 of them in the junkyard that just need a rattle can paint job?  Some geographic areas are more conducive to salvage yard operations and others just are a little lean.  Some places its not much of a savings, while others are fun, inexpensive, and still operate on the good-ol-boy mentality.  Wheels, axles, differentials, body parts, electronics, driveshafts, transmissions, gas tanks, hardware, and glass are things that I usually hit the junkyard first.  Many used engines and driveline pieces that they sell as running replacements are still in cars where they can be tested, driven, and heard running before you plop down the cash.  Some even offer a 30-day warranty.
 
I'll be the first to admit to being a tree hugger - not the liberal, latte-sipping, beverly hills kind, but the kind who just sees no need for waste.  Many parts can be purchased for pennies on the dollar at the local recycling yard.  Not only does it save you money, but it saves another part from being manufactured new.  Why buy a new wheel when there are 500 of them in the junkyard that just need a rattle can paint job?  Some geographic areas are more conducive to salvage yard operations and others just are a little lean.  Some places its not much of a savings, while others are fun, inexpensive, and still operate on the good-ol-boy mentality.  Wheels, axles, differentials, body parts, electronics, driveshafts, transmissions, gas tanks, hardware, and glass are things that I usually hit the junkyard first.  Many used engines and driveline pieces that they sell as running replacements are still in cars where they can be tested, driven, and heard running before you plop down the cash.  Some even offer a 30-day warranty.
  
Line 45: Line 38:
  
 
== When in doubt, cheat using coupons ==
 
== When in doubt, cheat using coupons ==
 
 
Have you ever bought something online and one of the optional boxes during checkout is a space for a ''coupon code'' or ''promotional code''?  Do a google search for "coupon code."  There are hundreds of sites that stockpile these passwords that you can input for discounts.  Its all legal.  They are just websites that allow you to search for published coupon codes.
 
Have you ever bought something online and one of the optional boxes during checkout is a space for a ''coupon code'' or ''promotional code''?  Do a google search for "coupon code."  There are hundreds of sites that stockpile these passwords that you can input for discounts.  Its all legal.  They are just websites that allow you to search for published coupon codes.
 +
 +
[[Category:General hotrodding]]

Revision as of 22:12, 21 August 2009

Personal tools
Namespaces
Variants
Actions
Navigation
Categories
Toolbox